Valiantjosh6
Member
Hey guys. I'm starting a 66 valiant soon and I was just wondering if I could get some tips on where to start. This is my first restore project
66 valiant
- Thread starter Valiantjosh6
- Start date
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clifcuda65
Old Mopar Geezer
Start where you are most comfortable... Do NOT try to fix everything at once!!!!
Show us more pics of your ride and we will guide you... You have friends here...
Clif of Az. :coffee2:
Show us more pics of your ride and we will guide you... You have friends here...
Clif of Az. :coffee2:
Valiantjosh6
Member
thanks man. I'll have it in the garage by wednesday. It's basically bare bones shell
clifcuda65
Old Mopar Geezer
Uh...Sorry... Just had eye surgery (Cataracs) and hit the wrong graphic... Should have been a coffee cup and NOT the with stupid sign... :banghead:
Clif of Az. :coffee2:
I edited but too late for your last post...
Valiantjosh6
Member
HAHAHAHAHAHA no worries I didn't even realize until you pointed it out
clifcuda65
Old Mopar Geezer
Till You post a few more pictures... What Drive train (Tranny/Engine ) do you have? What is your goal ??? Stock or Modified... You can do so many things with these early A-Body Mopars !!!
Clif of Az. :coffee2:
Clif of Az. :coffee2:
Valiantjosh6
Member
I have a 318 engine out of a 72 satellite, 727 tranny. Car will be mostly stock, It won't be made for speed. I plan on refreshing the engine with new bearings, gaskets, and timing chain. New everything on interior. I want to try and make it look like a million dollars
clifcuda65
Old Mopar Geezer
A very realistic goal... We'll be here to help!!! Still want some pics though :glasses7:
Clif of Az... :coffee2: Nap and eye drop time for me...
Valiantjosh6
Member
I'll try and find some pictures haha
Well, first off a welcome to fabo is in order here!! Next, you will not like the way the 727 trans fits the tunnel of the early A bodies! You will have to hammer the pinch weld flat where the firewall meets the floor pan in the tunnel just to get the bell housing of the trans to go in! The 904 is the preferred trans in this case! There are plenty of other secrets that you'll discover along the way, so just ask along as you encounter the small problems that can be remedied as you put together your package!! Thanks for saving another 66, they're great little cars!! Geof
hollywood hig
King of the assklowns
yep, 904 is the way to go for your car, i have a race prepped one in mine w/manual valve body, works awesome.
good luck on your build, i will try to help when i can.......
higgs
welcome. another early A saved!!!!! hope your eyes feel better soon. I know I have that to deal with before too long!
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Personally speaking, I like to have a plan for what I want it to be and how I'm going to get there. I try not to hold the plan so tightly that I can't make allowances for unforeseen issues or the availability of new components that I want to incorporate.
Suggest concentration on getting it roadworthy before making it really shiney. If the project goes bust for any reason, a running car is an easier sell than an inert pile of parts. It helps my motivation to have it running first. I can't tell you how good it felt to hear the 318 in the Demon come to life after I rebuilt it.
Suggest concentration on getting it roadworthy before making it really shiney. If the project goes bust for any reason, a running car is an easier sell than an inert pile of parts. It helps my motivation to have it running first. I can't tell you how good it felt to hear the 318 in the Demon come to life after I rebuilt it.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Good luck with your project.
Valiantjosh6
Member
Thanks everyone! I'll be sure to post and questions I have. The body is in pretty good shape so I really just want to work on doing a refresh of the engine (bearings, gaskets, timing chain, stuff like that) then getting it in the car and running asap! I may paint it while it's still a shell though to get that over with
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
For sure take the opportunity to clean all rust and paint while everything is out. Treat the interiors of the doors and panels now before they rust thru from the inside. The factory did a really poor job of painting there, with almost no paint at the tops of the door inners.
like BG says, paint the engine compartment, jambs, inside trunk, .... while the engine is out.... doesw trans need attention? I like to pull the seats, fix the likely floor pan rust there, and treat those floors with your choice of material. then you can drive it as you make patch panels, rebuilt the front end, as that more like will need some amount of work. will the seats are out , check out the under dash wiring , gauges, make any changes there , so much easier to do it while the seats are out.
and most of always, enjoy
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
A little 318 should make an early A go pretty well and can achieve fairly good mileage if you take it easy. Awesome project...
:worthles:
:worthles:
pishta
I know I'm right....
I replaced a spun 273-4 with a 318 with a Herbert stage 2 mechanical cam and was impressed with the power of a junkyard 2bbl teen block with the "S" top end on it. Mounds of torque over the Commando with no top end loss. It will spin the tires just like a 340 in that light chassis. Forget the 727, PITA to get in an make work plus it takes 2X the HP to turn it. You are good on shifters as you already have a 'modern' transmission shifter in there. While the motor is out, its a great time to R&R the front suspension and wire wheel the engine bay. Degrease and shoot with a semi gloss black or primer if you are going to shoot the bay body color. Also check K member for cracks around the steering box mounts, I had cracks develop on mine. 7.25 rear is adequate for a 273/318 if you dont race it, especially the SG version which is twice as strong. You can still get gears for the old 7.25, 3.23 is a good ratio and common. 2.76 is a great highway gear but lags on the street.
64Conv8
64Conv8
Hi, just about finished my 66 Convertible Plymouth Valiant...fyi..a lot of parts are VERY unique to the 66 so DO NOT believe everybody that says "it will fit,they were all the same"...emblems are hard to find and they are different,Dodge Dart parts do not fit and have a different wheelbase..106" and 111"...carpets are different, some wheels are different,trim is different from year to year....just be careful before you buy any 66 stuff..fyi..go to US Car Tool...remember you have a unibody and NO frame..it is rusted and gone and weak and 50 years old...their frame rails are terrific and take about 1 hour each to weld on...night and day difference...$170.00 /pair...there is also a U Tube movie that is showing how to install them on a 1966 Valiant....they snap in... front wheel to rear wheel...misc questions if u want call me 1-989-871-4110..michigan
RogerK
Well-Known Member
Welcome to FABO! I'm going to echo what eestatic said and make a plan. I've had my 1966 Barracuda for 16 years and its still not done, but I can drive it and it makes me happy.
The engine is a good choice, a 904 will fit right in with no issues. From there what upgrades do you want? front disk brakes? 8 1/4 rear? BBP rims? Improved wiring? plan for these upgrades.
A 50 year old car will most likely need some new parts to replace worn or weak components. leaf springs, bushings, ball joints, inner & outer tie rod ends, Idler arm & torsion bars. If its going to be a driver go with rubber bushings.
If you don't plan it all out up front you may end up spending too much money or doing something two or three times. Its OK to take it slow if you don't have the bucks.
We're all here to help so don't hesitate to ask questions or PM us. :cheers:
The engine is a good choice, a 904 will fit right in with no issues. From there what upgrades do you want? front disk brakes? 8 1/4 rear? BBP rims? Improved wiring? plan for these upgrades.
A 50 year old car will most likely need some new parts to replace worn or weak components. leaf springs, bushings, ball joints, inner & outer tie rod ends, Idler arm & torsion bars. If its going to be a driver go with rubber bushings.
If you don't plan it all out up front you may end up spending too much money or doing something two or three times. Its OK to take it slow if you don't have the bucks.
We're all here to help so don't hesitate to ask questions or PM us. :cheers:
here is a little more of my schedule when working on one. but like the other guy says, time and budget can dictate!! I pull the eng/trans. whether it goes to machine shop or w. at very least i will clean it, new gaskets, trans front seal, pull the heads and check for needed work there. a good time to undate the cam. set aside. time to rebuild trans if bad. set aside.
remove all outer paint. patch panel time, treat pitted metal with Ospho. pull interior, s et aside or send to upholstery shop. fix obvious floor rust. treat . clean inside of doors, like the guy said, they rust from inside.
rotesserie makes a big difference what you can do to the undersie of floor!
while eng oput, rebuild bront end and brake work. replace bad brake/ fuel lines. buy NEW gas tank and sender.
source radiator or make sure your old one is up to the job. obtain all new hoses, carb kit, belts, electrical under hood components. get shocks.
the engine compartment, door jams, inside trunk, I do first, clean treat epoxy prime, paint. if you send it out just writ e the guy a BIG check!!?? LOL!!
after its painted, then you are looking at reassemble. engine v=back in from bottom or top. you pulled the k member? all this makes a difference. changing t bar?? rear springs? rear end???
check out inside under dash wiring. it is old. replace if needed. grease speedo cable, update VR setup if desired?
i nterior paint? check out the factory paint Ditzler sheet ot see wha it should be painted
after painted the int goes back in. carpet, door panels? seats recovered? headliner BEFORE seats and carpet back.... package tray...... ( wher e does it end???)
rear end grease? engine primed? all fluids in????
fire up the sucker!!????? how many steps did I leave out????
oh yea, go to the bank and hock the wife's jewels!??????
remove all outer paint. patch panel time, treat pitted metal with Ospho. pull interior, s et aside or send to upholstery shop. fix obvious floor rust. treat . clean inside of doors, like the guy said, they rust from inside.
rotesserie makes a big difference what you can do to the undersie of floor!
while eng oput, rebuild bront end and brake work. replace bad brake/ fuel lines. buy NEW gas tank and sender.
source radiator or make sure your old one is up to the job. obtain all new hoses, carb kit, belts, electrical under hood components. get shocks.
the engine compartment, door jams, inside trunk, I do first, clean treat epoxy prime, paint. if you send it out just writ e the guy a BIG check!!?? LOL!!
after its painted, then you are looking at reassemble. engine v=back in from bottom or top. you pulled the k member? all this makes a difference. changing t bar?? rear springs? rear end???
check out inside under dash wiring. it is old. replace if needed. grease speedo cable, update VR setup if desired?
i nterior paint? check out the factory paint Ditzler sheet ot see wha it should be painted
after painted the int goes back in. carpet, door panels? seats recovered? headliner BEFORE seats and carpet back.... package tray...... ( wher e does it end???)
rear end grease? engine primed? all fluids in????
fire up the sucker!!????? how many steps did I leave out????
oh yea, go to the bank and hock the wife's jewels!??????
Love it!!:blob:
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