67 Barracuda trim?????

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hemi pwr

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Just asking im not sure I have a 67 barracuda fastback and it has no window chrome front and back ...did it come from the factory this way???? I have seen a bunch of them with and with out but not sure did they come that way ...thanks for any help :banghead:
 
67 had plastic chrome lockstrip.

68/69 had stainless trim. You can convert but need to drill and add clips.
 
so drill the metal and ad trim clips and it will fit over the rubber I have in the car??
 
Nope it takes a 68-69 windshield gasket also, plus the clips, plus the stainless trim.
 
Not sure... The gasket should be different I would think.

The 67 lockstrip is still available last I looked.

There are templates for the clip locations if you go that way. I had to drill the holes in the rear quarters after replacement and the templates were dead on.
 
You can get the lock strip off eBay. There are a couple of people who are reproducing it. You also will need the corner pieces too. They are available as well.
 

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You will save a ton of money using the 67 window trim...the 68 stuf is outrageously high and hard to find.
 
68-9 rear stainless window trim is about $2-300 for a fastback. Ad $20 for clips and screws. It won't shrink like the 67 trim and need replacing yet again. The front stainless trim is the same barracuda or dart (32-series - non vert/post/4-dr) and ranges around 100 used brand new is 225. Window gaskets are about 80 to 100 on avg (mrmoparts.com has best prices I've found.)

I have found "actual correct" 67 windshield mylar strips at about 80-100 per piece (4 rear, 5 frt) or around 200 set w/o clips which arent cheap either. I have seen a lot of ugly fake pieces for cheaper, but they don't look right. Plus you'll need all the joining stainless clips that fall off when the mylar shrinks.

I don't see a real huge savings/expense by not going stainless besides it looks a lot better. The fall back is if the cars window edges were assembled poorly it could leave some small gaps in the trim. If you plan on repainting the car at some point this is a non factor and just fit the trim prior to paint.
 
I've changed notch back coupe from 67 OEM to 68/9 trim on 3 cars over the many years. I've discovered a few small differences in the sheet metal and bodywork at the window openings that should be considered. Factory workers didn't need to get the lines as straight in 67. Starting with 68 model the workers had to have a straight edge or similar to check their lines and they had to trim the line and lookout length of the fence that the gasket sits on. Bottom line... The later gasket and stainless trim will show off what one would never have noticed beside the 67 rubber.
 
SS trim swap makes the car look finished in a way the plasti-chrome lock strip trim could never do.

Night and day difference IMO. Have been involved in two swaps and we had no issues with the factory bodywork causing it to look bad or unfinished so RF has a point as the inconsistencies between cars that occur at the factory may allow yours to look perfect where others looked bad.

I will point out that both swaps we did were done on an already painted cars.

If your gonna do it use Steele Rubber gasket period.
 
Just want to point out, you have to remove the glass and replace the gasket in order to drill and install the clips for the stainless trim, so factor that into the cost & time. But my car is in the shop for paint, and the stainless is absolutely on the agenda -- that plastic crap won't last a year on a car that sees the sun regularly. It might be OK for a museum piece -- you'd only have to replace it every 5 years.
 
Thanks for all your help I will change to 68 69 trim for sure now that I have all the info ..thanks to you guys
 
As most have said mine and Dads 67 lockstrip shrunk huge. Its Maybe 5 years old. Has looked like crap for a few years now. Im seriously contemplating the 68-9 route. 67 is lousy pita.....
 
Just want to point out, you have to remove the glass and replace the gasket in order to drill and install the clips for the stainless trim, so factor that into the cost & time. But my car is in the shop for paint, and the stainless is absolutely on the agenda -- that plastic crap won't last a year on a car that sees the sun regularly. It might be OK for a museum piece -- you'd only have to replace it every 5 years.

Beware... the 67 body will have slight imperfections where its panels are put together. These wouldn't show until a nice straight piece of reveal molding is placed beside them.
In 67 the factory workers didn't get them perfect because they didn't need to. 68 workers had templates to work to. This includes the length of the fence that the gasket sits on.
You'll want to check and trim that fence as needed, especially at rear glass. If that fence is too long for the 68 up gasket you'll have a hard time getting the top of the gasket to roll in against the headliner properly.
 
I prefer the stainless for the '67.

Mine came with the trim.....had never been installed and the clips had not been installed.

Some one had already found the trim and threw it in the back of the car.
 

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The WCRD690B is for a 67 w/ lockstrip. If you're going to update to SS Trim you need the 1968-9 gaskets - WCRD690 for front, and WCRDB3847 for fastback rear.



Hi,
if I want to swap over to 68 S/S trim, what gasket do I need?
WCRD690B or
WCRD690

thanks guys
Moritz
 
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