67 cuda FB progress UPDATE

Metallic GunMetal Grey with Gloss black stripes or Flat black stripes?

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Just to confirm, it is the jack hold down spring. My 67's have the same spring.


ariffle said:
:banghead:can anyone tell me what this spring is too?
I found it in a box of parts that were removed when we tore the car down.
I can't figure it out. If anyone knows and can take a picture of their spring and it's location I would greatly appreciate it.
I was thinking maybe it was for the brake pedal return spring but I think it's way to strong of a spring.
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ariffle said:
:banghead:can anyone tell me what this spring is too?
I found it in a box of parts that were removed when we tore the car down.
I can't figure it out. If anyone knows and can take a picture of their spring and it's location I would greatly appreciate it.
I was thinking maybe it was for the brake pedal return spring but I think it's way to strong of a spring.
Click to expand...

Looks like the one for the jack
 
The headliner install went very well.
This was my first bow style headliner installation and it was pretty easy to do.
The pictures will show what Products I used. The insulation matting and the headliner were purchased from year one. Instead of using Dynomat for the sound deadner I instead used the same stuss I use for sealing around window and door frames when installing Hardi-plank siding. It is the same material as Dynomat just a lit thiner. Make sure you NEVER use any product that has an asphalt type product in it or you will be sorry. Don't ask!!! Please, don't ask. L.O.L! the product is A Beutal material and can withstand a LOT of hear and extream cold temps. it will also keep the sheet metal from sweating. No sweating means no rusting. No rusting means no stains on your headliner and no mildew. I also used Super 90 spray adhesive to glue the insulation matting on the inside of the roof.
The pictures will show you. Every where I read about these bow type headliner installs, people keep saying not to mix up the bows or you will have a hell of a time getting them in the correct order. I say B.S!!!!
My headliner originally was found to be on top of the seats, on the floor and pretty much everywhere other than where it was supposed to be. So it was impossible for me do do.
I found all of my bows, five in all and cleaned them up and re painted them. It is a must if you want the bows to slide thru the pre-sewn pockets. If not, they will drag and tear them. NOT GOOD! Anyway, If you pre-fit the bows before you install the headliner, you will find that the bowes only fit where they are supposed to go. Other than the first two that go up front. They are the same length. I did this then parked the order with a sharpie pen on a piece of masking tape. Problem solved. Here are the pictures so far.

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First, I laid the headliner out flat with the side that will be seen facing down and the pockets for the bows facing up. I also oriented the headliner with the back window part closest to me.
This is to be sure you get the bows in the correct pockets.
I next laid each bow out in order next to the place I will slide them into and centering them on the material. It is very important to be sure that you find the center of the headliner and the center of each bow. I marked mine with a sharpie pen and a white paint pen on the bow as well so that I could line up my marks. This will help make certain that the bows are centered.
Now that they are centered, you cut a small slit in the pocket only. one at each end or your bow. I cut mine about an inch short of the length of the bow so that each end can stick out a bit after it is inserted and slid into the pocket. Do this for each bow. Make sure that you keep the bows in the order that they will go when hanging the headliner in your car.
After they have all been slid into place, go to the car and start hanging them one by one starting from the back window first.

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At this point it's quite saggy and you will have lots of extra material left hanging at each side.
no worries, just leave it for now.
Find a piece of cardboard about a foot long and several inches wide. this will help block the glue from unwanted areas when you spray the glue.
Spray the back edge of the headliner and the edge of the window opening of the back window where the factory spikes are. Be sure not to get glue on any other place but the edges and channel area. use some masking tape and tape off edges where you don't want to get glue. you need to remove the tape right after you spray the glue. Let the glued areas dry for about five minutes and be sure not to spray to much. only a couple of passes of a light coating. to thick and it will soak thru the material.
After the wait time you can stretch the headliner in the middle of the back window opening only at this point and be sure to notice the wrinkles disappear. keep going until the entire area above the back window is stretched out and holding at the sharp pointed notches. repeat the same for the front windshield opening. you may need to make relief cuts at the corners to get it to lay flat in the corners. After that, you repeat the same process for the sides.
if the headliner is puckering on the sides, you will need to cut back the pockets with siscers just an inch at a time and check each time. When the headliner smooths out, you have cut the pockets back enough. Go ahead and glue it and pull tight. Make sure the headliner still looks centered when doing the sides. Make note of where your mounting locations are for the visors and mirror as well as dome lights, coat hangers etc.

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After you are this far and it's looking pretty tight, go ahead and trim off the excess material.
I'd leave a bit glued down the A-pillar as this will help keep it tight in the corners after the trim is put on. If there are small wrinkles left, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat it up and pull to the sides. Keep the heat gun about a foot away from the material and keep moving it around. if not, you will melt the material and you will have to start over again. You can also re heat the glue and pull slowly at the edges to tighten it up a bit more. The glue will reset it's self again after your done pulling it into place. Good luck!
It worked great for me. Now on with the glass install.

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Not much to update on besides polishing up trim pieces on the bench grinder with buffing wheels attached.
I also took apart my wiper motor and cleaned it up inside and out and repainted the outside. I also did a test fit of my modified rear bumper. When I say modified, I mean shaved bolts. I welded studs to the inside of the bumpers for a smoother look and painted them body color. I also drilled out a hole for the floor shift linkage and installed the Vintage air box. It needed to be bolted in before I drop the 273 and the 727 auto into it's final resting place. I'll have pictures posted up in a couple days with it all.
My time has mostly been taken up with work and family duties so I haven't had the time to download the pictures onto my computer yet.
 
I'm impressed by the headliner installation. I've never done one yet but I know I'll have to on the Charger some day. I see so many guys that paid professionals to do the installation on their cars and they have wrinkles when they get them back. Yours looks like it turned out perfect.

I'm looking forward to seeing updates on the Vintage Air install. It'd make a nice upgrade for my truck. I helped a buddy a little bit when he put one in his '70 Camaro. They sure look nice. His ran him about $1500 but he said it was going to cost him almost that much to rebuild his factory system.
 
Ill try to shoot a picture and post them up in a day or two. They have worn almost thru the chrome on the tops and you can see the copper a bit.
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1967 'cuda said:
I'm impressed by the headliner installation. I've never done one yet but I know I'll have to on the Charger some day. I see so many guys that paid professionals to do the installation on their cars and they have wrinkles when they get them back. Yours looks like it turned out perfect.

I'm looking forward to seeing updates on the Vintage Air install. It'd make a nice upgrade for my truck. I helped a buddy a little bit when he put one in his '70 Camaro. They sure look nice. His ran him about $1500 but he said it was going to cost him almost that much to rebuild his factory system.
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Thanks! I'm extremely happy with the results. It was actually pretty easy to do. As long as you take your time it will go just fine as wine.
I can talk you thru it any time.
As far as the vintage air system, it only cost me around $500.00 for the complete setup. I haven't truly installed the entire system, I just mounted the airbox onto the firewall, under the dash so I wouldn't struggle with it after the engine is put in. Don't ask how I figured that one out. L.O.L!
Like I tell my kids, Never be afraid to make mistakes. That's the only way you truly learn.
 
man, VERY nice work! I just read this whole thread for the first time! keep up the great work your almost there buddy! i love the color! come on down and lets do some body work on my cuda!!
 
Keep in mind that all of the pictures that I have taken on this project are from an Android phone camera, so that's why the crummy pictures. Sorry...
Ok, so here are the stainless lower outside door trim pieces and top of the door trim pieces.
Total time for cleaning, small ding repairs, filing, sanding and buffing them all were about 15 hours total time. It would have taken me longer to work for the money to send them out to get repaired and buffed out.

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It's hard to tell from these pictures but the chrome button bumper bolts are gone and in place of them are new bolts tig welded from the inside at the same locations, grinded down smooth, small amount of body filler, sealer, high build primer, sealer again, paint then four coats of clear.
Wet sanded and buffed out.
Keep in mind that these may not be the final rendition. If I can come up with the $2,000 for each bumper then they will be blasted and triple chrome plated. I'm just a tight wadd right now. L.O.L!!!!

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I chose to go with Vintage Air for my heating needs.
In Washington state there is not much need for air conditioning so it was fairly cheap to purchase. It looks a bit fuzzy due to my crappy phone camera.
I installed it now so I could get good access to the firewall now as opposed to after this weekend when I install the engine and trans.
Also included is a shot of the firewall showing how clean it looks without all the clutted. Only four button head allen bolts. They are stainless but I chose to paint the heads black so as not to be noticed as much. It looks pretty shiny. You can see the reflection of the front core support in the firewall.
Unfortunatly, I forgot to cut down the shock threads a bit. They are WAY to long.

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