68/9 cuda dash resto ???'s

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I have a nice 69 Barracuda dash that isnt broke if you want, I'll make you a deal on.
 

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not sure if this could help Steve, but my local hobby shop as a kit that you can buy some sort of plastic resin that you might help if you are missing any plastic parts missing or needs repair. Send me a pm, i can look into getting you some if you can't find it in your area.. good luck
 
steve, poor mans version. I scuffed mine with 400 wet/dry, sprayed with chrome, argent and black semi flat. I take and separate all lenses from the frames and the buttons also using a light soldering iron to heat the plastic. polish the lenses with a headlight restorer followed up with 3m polishing compound the lenses look new. it take awhile as I wait several days between colors and taping. I use a q-tip to dab the heater control, headlight and wiper lettering and bezel out line. I dab the 3 centers lightly with paper towel since paint covers the spiral design in them. it looks night and day better but not perfect. add re-wrapping the nichrome wire, soldering the pcb pins, cleaning gauge faces. less than $50.
find an old wasted broken dash frame cut the broken piece out of it and 2-part epoxy it. in fact I have a 68 face that is screwed up ill mail that piece to you when I have some time this week.

Hey John, thanks for the offer, but Im using a 69 that isnt broke, its a good one lets hope I keep it that way!!

I have a nice 69 Barracuda dash that isnt broke if you want, I'll make you a deal on.

Thanks 4404spd, my 69 bezel is good.....for now, lets hope I dont screw it up

not sure if this could help Steve, but my local hobby shop as a kit that you can buy some sort of plastic resin that you might help if you are missing any plastic parts missing or needs repair. Send me a pm, i can look into getting you some if you can't find it in your area.. good luck

Hey Mike, Im using/found a good bezel with no breaks/cracks. The bezel orig pictured in the beginning of this thread is long gone. That gives me an idea though, we have a hobby shop in town, I might check in with them as to a "plastic cleaner" before using the "adhesion promoter"

Thanks guys!!
 
Hobby shop also have paint pens that is very handy for the raised lettering, alot easier than a brush...tip use pen before you start drinking..
 
fish poop, Thats what I call that screw hole on the end of the bezel. Could have been fish food if the fish on the glove box had been swimming toward it instead of away.
I made that screw go away on the DIN bezels. Anyway...
Everyone should maintain the tension on the right seat back or their bezel will be broken in the same place again. I've seen new reproduction bezels already broken there.
I'm spending and working steady to backlight all the switch labels on the bezel too.
Mostly because the detail painting is a biotch, even with a liquid mask.
This is all I will show for now...
 

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I've seen Troy use Rustoleam Textured Black spay bomb paint from Wallmart that looked really well on the metal dash frame itself.

PLEASE do not paint the metal dash frame gloss black. It's not supposed to be gloss and it was done that way on purpose so the driver does not get glare in thier eyes. Also gloss shows all kinds of imperfections and dirt in the paint like the one pictured above.

was that Rustoleam also used on the dash facia to fill in the black areas?
 
was that Rustoleam also used on the dash facia to fill in the black areas?

No. Only for the entire metal dash frame structure, glove box door, ash tray door, and upper metal parts of the steering column (collars).

The black on the plastic fascia is not textured.

SEM Landau black (auto paint supply store) is a perfect match. But it needs primer over the original black. Last night it was lifting the original black on a friends dash. He didn't want to put too many coats of paint on it too minimize the loss of definition on the details of the fascia due to paint built up. But today he may end up priming it.

He is restoring a 71 Rallye dash today. I'll post pics later.

Remember to polish the clear lenses. Just take mild rubbing compound or toothpaste to them with a paper towel. If they are really scratched or not to your liking, use 1000 then 1500 grit wetsand sanding paper.
 
Thanks for the info "autox"!

Hey Redfish, those switch labels are "back lit"?? Those are pretty cool, show pics of the back!! What kind of bulb are you planning??
 
A frickin screw seized in the far right end has slowed me down!! I have tried everything...dremel tool...LH drill bits....PB blaster....vice grips on the back side of the screw. I will tackle it 2morrow
 
I have a nice 69 Barracuda dash that isnt broke if you want, I'll make you a deal on.

Thanks 4404spd, my 69 bezel is good.....for now, lets hope I dont screw it up


Thanks guys!!


i really hate to hi-jack a thread here someone has a 68/9 uncut bezel for sale i am definately in the market ....if you saw mine in the other thread then you will see that would save me a whole bunch of work. :toothy9:
 
i really hate to hi-jack a thread here someone has a 68/9 uncut bezel for sale i am definately in the market ....if you saw mine in the other thread then you will see that would save me a whole bunch of work. :toothy9:

You arent hi-jacking there Princess. Mines intact except for the one "seized" frickin bezel screw!!
 
Thanks for the info "autox"!

Hey Redfish, those switch labels are "back lit"?? Those are pretty cool, show pics of the back!! What kind of bulb are you planning??

That pic only shows daylight passing through the light windows I've cut through the bezel so there is nothing on the back to see.
Over a year in development now.Just throwing something together for my own would be too easy. Making a user friendly kit that anyone can install increases my time and expense 5 or 6 fold.
LEDs, EL light wire, etc.. all proved too complicated for the average Joe so I followed Gene Simmons advise, K.I.S.S. keep it simple stoopid.
I'm bringing light from the bulbs already in there via fiber optics.
Yes the climate controls will be backlighted too.
Yes FLASHERS was changed to HAZARD. Flashers has too many letters. This change makes the light window cut for LIGHTS WIPERS HAZARD all the same size.
I've answered questions here that weren't asked yet. No further details will be revealed until field testing is complete ( mid July ).
 
Thanks Red...guess we will have to wait for another Chrysler/Redfish prototype unveiling. Looks cool! I wish I hadda kept my spare/broken bezels now....
 
Sorry for dbl posting, I posted this info in Cosgig's "Gauntlet" thread, but figured I would post here as well.

Well after struggling with one dash screw for a day, it finally came out with the help of PB blaster and my dremel tool. I must say it was a pain in the arse to say the least. You can see how small it was in the pic. Once it was out, I finished up with the sandblasting. Sprayed a couple coats of adhesion promoter and then one coat of Duplicolor Chrome. NOT HAPPY with the Chrome at all!! Looks like a shiny silver, to me it doesnt look like chrome at all, but whaddya expect coming out of a can. Im thinking of doing some wetsanding before the other coat and see how the 2nd coat turns out.

I also got the pod centers removed from the lenses using my "soldering kit". Kept the little "tits" to re-attach them later on.
 

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here are some from mine. the first is going in the notch. It was already cut for radio so Im going to leave it and put something more modern in the hole. I still need to add the argent color and touch it up. The others are of my Fastback done the same way.
 

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Hey those turned out pretty darned good John! Almost makes me wanna start over!!! I have 2 coats of black on and it was a beach taping it off. One more coat of black and I will untape and see what it looks like. Might have to wetsand the silver and spray it again..
 
Don't waste your time with paint pens. The silver wipes off. I tried them on my 70 Swinger and silver came off every time it was touched months later.
 
Ok, here is an update on what I did, I also posted this in cosgig's thread.
Well, take 2 on the "chrome" for me. Im almost embarassed to post pics after seeing Ranis progress/success.....maybe I shoulda stayed a wallflower at this dance!

Anyway, my inital chrome sucked, black turned out good, so I wet-sanded the chrome, taped off the black with help from my new little toy, a bench top magnifier. Thanks to pointers from this thread and from my other dash resto thread, I tried a few little "tricks".

I put the "chrome" spray bomb in water that I boiled. I also took a blowdryer to the bezel before spraying to warm it up a bit. I sprayed a little closer to the bezel. My 1st attempt I was too far away and it was "powdery". After each coat I took the blowdryer to the paint, keeping about 8-10" away, I was trying to get the chrome to "flatten" out to be more reflective. Here are some before/after pics, I will wait a day to do the touchups. With the magnifying tool, a toothpick and q-tip were also helpful in getting the tape to lay down flat.
 

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I got my sons dash done today for his 70 Dart, This was a non-rally frame I cut the center out of and put the center in out of a rotted out rally dash frame. The dash is sitting on the floor it was hard to get pictures of.
 

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I got my sons dash done today for his 70 Dart, This was a non-rally frame I cut the center out of and put the center in out of a rotted out rally dash frame. The dash is sitting on the floor it was hard to get pictures of.

Wow!! Looks amazing! Nice work.
 
While cleaning the circuit board and repainting the gauge needles(testors fluorescent orange...if I had some red I would have mixed it in to darken it a bit), I discovered that one of the copper pins for the big connector is loose...it hasnt fallen out/off but it aint far from it!! Seeing how its still attached, can it be soldered or something?? Is there a type of epoxy that will still allow electrical conduction??

Also these bulbs I believe are the same as the std 194 dash bulb, but it has a chromed/darkened lens on it...whats that for? I dont recall seeing these available anywhere?? Ideas where to get them...I can get std 194's but not the "mirrored" ones..

Thanks for the help/advice fabo!!
I
 

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Hey Steve I would solder that pin just don't put too much solder on it. The dash looks good btw.
 
the "chromed" look on the bulb is from it burning out. Just use regular 194's. And yes solder the pins using a little flux it will hold. I solder them from behind it is recessed in that area on the frame.
If not, let me know I believe I have at least a few unbroken spares if you need one.
 
Hey Steve I would solder that pin just don't put too much solder on it. The dash looks good btw.

Thanks Joe, looks good in pics, but looks "backyard" in person. Better than what it was though!

the "chromed" look on the bulb is from it burning out. Just use regular 194's. And yes solder the pins using a little flux it will hold. I solder them from behind it is recessed in that area on the frame.
If not, let me know I believe I have at least a few unbroken spares if you need one.

Doh!! (with the bulbs)!! LOL. I ordered LED's last night off of Epay. 20 Led's with 8X light and I got them for $1 for all 20...LOL Had to pay $13 in shipping but 20 8x Led for $14..couldnt beat it.
I have one more spare circuit board John, so Im good for now, thanks again! If I can solder, I should be good!


Thanks all!
 
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