68 Baracuda electrical questions
- Thread starter bamech68
- Start date
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Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Hi bamech68,
Welcome to the site!
Is this what you are looking for??
These guys have all kinds of electrical components for A-Bodies.
DMPS-10225P Mopar - 1966-1974 Bulkhead Wiring Plugs (all cars except E-body, 1971-1974 B-body) - dantesparts.com
Welcome to the site!
Is this what you are looking for??
These guys have all kinds of electrical components for A-Bodies.
DMPS-10225P Mopar - 1966-1974 Bulkhead Wiring Plugs (all cars except E-body, 1971-1974 B-body) - dantesparts.com
Welcome!
Probably best bet for finding the black plastic plugs is junkyard, or somebody parting out a car, but most would probably want to sell the complete part of the harness attached to that plug.
If you have the plugs, you can replace just the terminals inside. (Packard connectors)
If looking for plugs/ harness, keep an eye on ForBBodiesOnly (FBBO) & FCBO as well, though the wiring might be similar but different.
Edit: thanks AAndrews, I didn’t know those were available.
Probably best bet for finding the black plastic plugs is junkyard, or somebody parting out a car, but most would probably want to sell the complete part of the harness attached to that plug.
If you have the plugs, you can replace just the terminals inside. (Packard connectors)
If looking for plugs/ harness, keep an eye on ForBBodiesOnly (FBBO) & FCBO as well, though the wiring might be similar but different.
Edit: thanks AAndrews, I didn’t know those were available.
Welcome.
The block on the firewall is referred to as the "bulkhead connector" the 3 plastic connectors are keyed, and all 3 are different.
Go to mymopar.com there are free downloadable factory service manuals and wiring diagrams.
Classiccarwiring.com has wiring diagrams that are laminated and color coded. Best 20.00 you will spend.
If you need to clean up wiring american auto wire is a great source
American Autowire: Wiring Harnesses, Accessories, & Parts for GM Restoration, Modified Restoration & Custom Street Rod | American Autowire
if you need to replace terminals be sure you get the correct ones. There are also single wire and double wire terminals, and various sizes from 10 awg to 20 awg. And in the case of terminals size does matter.
also terminal cleaner Deoxit is a great product.
What ever you do, DO NOT use sandpaper on contacts, it removes the plating and creates a place for corosion to start. A stiff brush, Deoxit, and a pencil erasure is all that is needed.
The block on the firewall is referred to as the "bulkhead connector" the 3 plastic connectors are keyed, and all 3 are different.
Go to mymopar.com there are free downloadable factory service manuals and wiring diagrams.
Classiccarwiring.com has wiring diagrams that are laminated and color coded. Best 20.00 you will spend.
If you need to clean up wiring american auto wire is a great source
American Autowire: Wiring Harnesses, Accessories, & Parts for GM Restoration, Modified Restoration & Custom Street Rod | American Autowire
if you need to replace terminals be sure you get the correct ones. There are also single wire and double wire terminals, and various sizes from 10 awg to 20 awg. And in the case of terminals size does matter.
also terminal cleaner Deoxit is a great product.
What ever you do, DO NOT use sandpaper on contacts, it removes the plating and creates a place for corosion to start. A stiff brush, Deoxit, and a pencil erasure is all that is needed.
I used this guy for the rebuild on my wiper motor.
http://www.headlightmotorman.com/
Dialed it in he did.
http://www.headlightmotorman.com/
Dialed it in he did.
The wiper motor you have looks to be a 3 speed motor. The 2 speed looks almost the same except for where the wires go through back.
Quick Google search shows many being sold rebuilt and used. Be sitting down.
IMHO if you can get a functional not rusted / corroded used unit for 1/4 the price of a rebuilt one I would go for that. Unless you plan on daily driving you car, you will rairly use the wipers.
There are other motors the stickout (point toward the front of the car) I don't know if they are interchangeable.
Beware, there was a rebuild service out of Florida that was highly regarded but seems to have had major issues lately. Sorry I don't recall the company name. I seem to recall it was a lady running it.
Post up some photos of your new car!
Quick Google search shows many being sold rebuilt and used. Be sitting down.
IMHO if you can get a functional not rusted / corroded used unit for 1/4 the price of a rebuilt one I would go for that. Unless you plan on daily driving you car, you will rairly use the wipers.
There are other motors the stickout (point toward the front of the car) I don't know if they are interchangeable.
Beware, there was a rebuild service out of Florida that was highly regarded but seems to have had major issues lately. Sorry I don't recall the company name. I seem to recall it was a lady running it.
Post up some photos of your new car!
Some have said that some aftermarket diagrams are not 100% correct, but the one I have for my 67 dart is spot on.
The colored wire traces make tracing the wires so much easier.
Sounds like he’s going to do mine as well! Thanks
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
In 1966, they added a 3rd bulkhead connector, which is termed "wiper connector" since most of those new wire positions were due to moving the wiper motor into the engine bay. I have run across 1980-90 Dodge vans in the junkyard which still used many of the 1960's connectors, including the bulkhead I recall, but sometimes with 4 connectors. I don't know if keyed similar. Indeed, I vaguely recall the latches on the plastic connectors changing from male to female or such over time, so not all interchange, but I have found some matching connectors for my early-A's in later motorhomes. The metal terminals are termed "Packard 56" or "56 terminal", also used in GM. Many sellers for those on the web and ebay. The plastic housings are harder to source though a few new ones are made. BTW, don't fret if the plastic bulkhead latches break off. The connector will stay on, indeed wiggling them off is usually hard. Use silicone grease on the terminals.
The BEST wiring diagrams are those in the shop manual.
Trace or copy the circuit you are interested in to create a clearer working diagram and schematic.
The circuit will make much more sense when you have done this yourself.
One of our members here has redrawn those diagrams in color with layers to help make this easier.
Removing, and cleaning isn't that hard
www.forabodiesonly.com
www.forabodiesonly.com
It will not hurt to get new seals as well.
Removing the connector engine side. question on the main harness plug on firewall
Repairing and replacing terminals or wire sections requires some tools and a little practice.
The correct terminals are needed to insure a) they aren't loose in the connector housing b) the wire crimp has minmal resistance.
www.forabodiesonly.com
Trace or copy the circuit you are interested in to create a clearer working diagram and schematic.
The circuit will make much more sense when you have done this yourself.
One of our members here has redrawn those diagrams in color with layers to help make this easier.
Removing, and cleaning isn't that hard
1969 Dodge Dart - Engine Compartment Main Bulkhead Connector
Is there a trick to getting off the bulkhead connectors in the engine compartment? I don't want to break anything. The bottom seems loose, but the top seems stuck. Just pull harder? I don't see any kind of latches.
www.forabodiesonly.com
Cleaning bulkhead connectors
Want to clean the bulkhead connectors while motor is out I have elec spray cleaner but was wondering what ya'll use to get into the connectors and give them a good scrubbin
www.forabodiesonly.com
Removing the connector engine side. question on the main harness plug on firewall
Repairing and replacing terminals or wire sections requires some tools and a little practice.
The correct terminals are needed to insure a) they aren't loose in the connector housing b) the wire crimp has minmal resistance.
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
Found some on-line retailers for the 'mopar' style terminals. A couple places call them Packard 58. Need to confirm what covers. Only thing I don't like is one place claim the one covers 3 wire sizes; and the other place skips 16 AWG, and the third only carries one size? Eastern Beaver Open...
www.forabodiesonly.com
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Since you're new, a few concepts will go a long way.
The main 1968 Barracuda power circuits:
The alternator output and the battery are joined at a welded junction in the wire harness under the dash.
From that junction there is a feed to the headlight switch, the key switch, and the fuse box.
Everything connected to the battery positive is always hot.
Notice that black wires are power feeds. Do not ground them!
(Yes you will also come across some black ground wires. For example at the headlights)
You can familiarize and prove this to yourself by taking a hand held voltmeter and measuring the voltage to ground at the alternator output and then at the battery.
The ammeter confuses many people.
It does not measure voltage.
It measures electrons going through to or from the battery.
After start up it should show the battery charging, and when its done charging, the needle should be in the middle.
If the battery is discharging while the engine is running, then the alternator is not working properly.
If needle is at either extreme of the scale (40 amps), there is a big problem. Shut down and if that doesn't bring the needle to the middle, disconnect battery.
The main 1968 Barracuda power circuits:
The alternator output and the battery are joined at a welded junction in the wire harness under the dash.
From that junction there is a feed to the headlight switch, the key switch, and the fuse box.
Everything connected to the battery positive is always hot.
Notice that black wires are power feeds. Do not ground them!
(Yes you will also come across some black ground wires. For example at the headlights)
You can familiarize and prove this to yourself by taking a hand held voltmeter and measuring the voltage to ground at the alternator output and then at the battery.
The ammeter confuses many people.
It does not measure voltage.
It measures electrons going through to or from the battery.
After start up it should show the battery charging, and when its done charging, the needle should be in the middle.
If the battery is discharging while the engine is running, then the alternator is not working properly.
If needle is at either extreme of the scale (40 amps), there is a big problem. Shut down and if that doesn't bring the needle to the middle, disconnect battery.
Last edited:
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Early A's at least had a variable-speed wiper option. All confusing, as there were maybe 4 different wiper switches, some with options like push-button for electric washer pump. Plus, some had pass-thru terminals to send 12 VDC on to other components which adds confusion and some switches varied almost every year.
Great advice, thanks!
Thanks!
Not electrical but the next thing to solve is wheel bolt pattern, it’s got an upgraded 8-3/4” so the wheels are for that pattern with adapters in the front. 17’s all around but the front drivers side catches the fender. I’d like to keep 17’s on it and I think if the wheels are correct (not needing the 1” wide adapter) they will clear… Just need some time to investigate
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
fronts are probable still 5x4" bolt pattern. with 5x4.5" in the rear.
There are kits (Dr. Diff has one) that will give you 5x4.5" on the front. I think you can source all the needed parts used or at the parts counter if you want to go that rout too. \basically you use a later model Dart / Duster front disk brakes and related parts
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