Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Wow! You went in to gitr dun thrash mode!! It looks great. I need to do that as well..
68 twin turbo dart project.
- Thread starter turbodart68
- Start date
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Walker434
Well-Known Member
Wow just getting caught up on this thread. Great fab skills! Good to hear you're doing drag week this year, I'll see you in Atlanta. I've got mine torn down adding a Procharger. Nothing like your build though. Just shooting for mid 10s
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
It’s been a moderate pace. Thrash mode is coming. I can feel it. The bodywork and paint is going to be the make or break.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. I saw your car last year, love your car. We were in a 71 Torino last year. I can’t wait to see the updated version of your car.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Time for an update. Here is the last of the fab stuff. This is the front?rear motor mount to keep the motor located properly in the chassis since the motor plates don't do front/ rear strength too well.
This is the charging post tabs.
This is the crossmember for the front clip. It'll hold the tabs for the hoods Dzus fasteners. It'll offer support for the radiator as well.
This is the scavenge pump for the turbos
Random shot of turbos with the radiator out.
The tear down begins
Here is a shot of the intercooler piping making its way from the turbos to the interior where the intercooler is located.
This is the charging post tabs.
This is the crossmember for the front clip. It'll hold the tabs for the hoods Dzus fasteners. It'll offer support for the radiator as well.
This is the scavenge pump for the turbos
Random shot of turbos with the radiator out.
The tear down begins
Here is a shot of the intercooler piping making its way from the turbos to the interior where the intercooler is located.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
Making good progress. I'm in the middle of updating my fuel system. Hope to be tuning and making passes soon. Less than 100 days until drag week! No pressure
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
With the tear down I'm process its time to move on to body work.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
The rough bodywork was done 12 years ago and now we are blocking it with 180 grit on a variety of blocks from Durablock. I try to use the longest one possible and work in a criss-cross pattern. Initially I used a tape to create the straight body lines. Then I use a technique of blocking in one direction over guide coat then re guide coat and work the other direction. I repeat this process until its straight and the line is sharp. Then I re primed the car with PPG ECP17 high build primer. Then block again with 400 grit wet then 600 grit wet. This is where I screwed up. I dry blocked the car in 400 and 600 and it created deep scratches and uneven surfaces. More on that later.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Oh and somewhere along the line the drivers B pillar rolled in 3/4" and it made the quarter to door gap crooked. I didn't properly support the car when I cut out the floors and frame in preparation for the chassis. BIG life lesson learned here!
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
More blocking. At this point things were quite encouraging. It looked like we had a handle on it.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
This is after applying Epoxy primer to all the bare metal spots. Then onto prep and the second application of high build. I am really enjoying this process. I am done paying for bodyshops to do my paint work.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
I have burned through plenty of pourable glaze. This stuff is amazing. It spreads so nice and is sandable in 20 minutes. Its made by Upol and you get it at a paint supply place. So the process is this:
1.Take the car to bare metal (in this case chemical dipped the whole car)
2. Epoxy prime (also called "direct to metal" or "self etching" primer) in this case DP90
3. rust repair, panel replacement
4. Body filler and rough sand with a rough grit like 80 or so
5. Re-prime with Epoxy for any bare metal spots
6. Coat with a primer surfacer (high build) in this case ECP15 and ECP17 from PPG
7. Block sand with 180 dry and with a soft block since the body is flat and straight but has a gentle curve.
8. Re-prime with epoxy not he bare spots.
9. Re-prime with high build 3 wet coats
10. Block sand with 400 wet and the 600 wet
11. It should be ready for paint. Repeat 8,9,10 till it looks right.
I use wax and grease remover to wet the panels to see if they are straight. Also overtime you sand off the guide coat during the 180 and 400 stages re apply the guide coat.
1.Take the car to bare metal (in this case chemical dipped the whole car)
2. Epoxy prime (also called "direct to metal" or "self etching" primer) in this case DP90
3. rust repair, panel replacement
4. Body filler and rough sand with a rough grit like 80 or so
5. Re-prime with Epoxy for any bare metal spots
6. Coat with a primer surfacer (high build) in this case ECP15 and ECP17 from PPG
7. Block sand with 180 dry and with a soft block since the body is flat and straight but has a gentle curve.
8. Re-prime with epoxy not he bare spots.
9. Re-prime with high build 3 wet coats
10. Block sand with 400 wet and the 600 wet
11. It should be ready for paint. Repeat 8,9,10 till it looks right.
I use wax and grease remover to wet the panels to see if they are straight. Also overtime you sand off the guide coat during the 180 and 400 stages re apply the guide coat.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Here is the after part. I hope you guys like pictures, I took a million haha.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Second round of blocking.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Kick ***!!! Awesome progress. What do you neighbors have to say about painting it outside?
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. They haven't said much but they are all super cool. Plus I make sure to cover anything near by and the high build has very little overspray.
Wow!!!!!! Looking good chris. And that's an understatement.
DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
Color? Or is it a surprise.
rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Thanks Joe! I am on a mission! Its about time.
Its going to be a 1968 Mopar color. RR1 Burgundy Poly or Dark Red Metallic. I will post more pics next week.
Blocking isn't too bad. I definitely don't like the dust and I learned that I wasn't supposed to do it dry after the first initial block.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Damn! You’re gittin after it! I’m still dragging my feet lol
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
More blocking.....bored yet?
I bought this fiberglass hood off of FABO years ago and it had 4 holes for hood pins. I am going to run Dzus fasteners so I had to fill the holes. It went real well.
I bought this fiberglass hood off of FABO years ago and it had 4 holes for hood pins. I am going to run Dzus fasteners so I had to fill the holes. It went real well.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
So I thought I was preparing for paint. Once I got to my cousins shop I found out otherwise.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
These pics are at my Cousins shop in Arizona. I decided to paint it at his place because I can get better products and I get to use his booth to spray it.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
2 more coats of high build and its ready for paint.
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