451Cuda
Well-Known Member
I'm putting a Barracuda dash in my '67 Signet, I like the look much more and there's no vin to worry about.
68 Valiant Signet, 2D, A/C car, build
- Thread starter ValiantOne
- Start date
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I'm putting a Barracuda dash in my '67 Signet, I like the look much more and there's no vin to worry about.
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Well, it is starting to look like an engine again. I hope the bearings hold up! It would be a real shame to get this thing resealed and cleaned up just to have it puke out on me. But the plan was cheap reseal, oil pump, water pump, and let 'er rip. 'Course that changed into something more complicated as always..........
I figured as long as it was out I'd install my 360/340 exhaust manifold set from FABO member Treblig. They look great! Thanks Gilbert. I used some big honkin' copper exh gaskets I had for them. I also put a modern elec distributor in as I will be adding the ecu, etc to the car. Heck I might even sand blast and repaint the old air cleaner
The magnum manifold on the passenger side will necessitate the oil filter adapter to be moved. Not sure if I'll be able to clock it such that it is useable, but will find out once it is back in the car.
Now on to reinforcing the K frame and getting it, along with, all the front disc brake stuff in there.
I figured as long as it was out I'd install my 360/340 exhaust manifold set from FABO member Treblig. They look great! Thanks Gilbert. I used some big honkin' copper exh gaskets I had for them. I also put a modern elec distributor in as I will be adding the ecu, etc to the car. Heck I might even sand blast and repaint the old air cleaner
The magnum manifold on the passenger side will necessitate the oil filter adapter to be moved. Not sure if I'll be able to clock it such that it is useable, but will find out once it is back in the car.
Now on to reinforcing the K frame and getting it, along with, all the front disc brake stuff in there.
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mopowers
Well-Known Member
Damn, that's purty, Chris. Now paint that water pump and those ugly brackets. That things gonna be back on the road before you know it!
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
That water pump is actually painted with silver caliper paint! Yeah the brackets are ugly. I may spray 'em yet.
Tomorrow I'm going to start grinding and welding on my K frame. I really just want to toss this motor back in and see if it all works, butt it will be so much easier to do all the front end and brake work now while it is all apart.
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
So I thought I'd get all my transmission fitment done yesterday and get on to the K frame. As it happened I only got through trans fitment.
I have never checked the run out on a bell housing before but wanted to try it on this engine. As it turns out my bell has a maximum run out of .011 at exactly 12 'oclock. The FSM calls for a maximum of .008. Hrrrrmmmm, I am only .003 out so guess what?? I'm leaving it alone. It was an interesting exercise though.
So the flywheel fits correctly. Yay.
I also got all the measurements for the input shaft vs. crank flange recess and flange bearing location on the shaft measured up. It is all Okey-Dokey. Hurray for that.
I also used an idea I found here on FABO (forget which member) whereby I drilled a few holes in my flange bearing and tapped them (10X32) so that I can just run two bolts into the bearing to separate it from the flange if the need ever arises.
I also cleaned the threads up on all the bellhousing holes. This lead me to find 3 holes that had stripped out threads (yeah the bell was supposed to have all threaded holes in tact.....) Ah well, I don't think think the seller was being malicious. I'm sure it was just a mistake. So I have to get some Helicoils for two of the 5/16X18 (splash cover) holes and one for one of the 7/16 X 14 (starter) holes.
All in all a good day!
I have never checked the run out on a bell housing before but wanted to try it on this engine. As it turns out my bell has a maximum run out of .011 at exactly 12 'oclock. The FSM calls for a maximum of .008. Hrrrrmmmm, I am only .003 out so guess what?? I'm leaving it alone. It was an interesting exercise though.
So the flywheel fits correctly. Yay.
I also got all the measurements for the input shaft vs. crank flange recess and flange bearing location on the shaft measured up. It is all Okey-Dokey. Hurray for that.
I also used an idea I found here on FABO (forget which member) whereby I drilled a few holes in my flange bearing and tapped them (10X32) so that I can just run two bolts into the bearing to separate it from the flange if the need ever arises.
I also cleaned the threads up on all the bellhousing holes. This lead me to find 3 holes that had stripped out threads (yeah the bell was supposed to have all threaded holes in tact.....) Ah well, I don't think think the seller was being malicious. I'm sure it was just a mistake. So I have to get some Helicoils for two of the 5/16X18 (splash cover) holes and one for one of the 7/16 X 14 (starter) holes.
All in all a good day!
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ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, and after doing the mod to the input shaft bearing...............I found I could push it most of the way in or out of its bore with my fingers :banghead:
I ended up "upsetting" the material around the edge of the bearing to give it some purchase in its hole. Then I used some blue locktite around the circumference. I imagine that'll hold it in place for the time being.
C
I ended up "upsetting" the material around the edge of the bearing to give it some purchase in its hole. Then I used some blue locktite around the circumference. I imagine that'll hold it in place for the time being.
C
Treblig
Well-Known Member
NICE work!!
Treblig
Treblig
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Well, made some more progress so just doing and update. BTW, does anyone know if the previous pictures lost in the website upgrade are going to come back or not?
First I welded up and primed the LCA's. Of course I painted them black too but no pics of that. As you can see I am not a master welder, but to be fair the wind was blowing like crazy that day. Arrrgh! My shielding gas was getting blown away. Not a good day to weld outside, but they came out okay in the end.
First I welded up and primed the LCA's. Of course I painted them black too but no pics of that. As you can see I am not a master welder, but to be fair the wind was blowing like crazy that day. Arrrgh! My shielding gas was getting blown away. Not a good day to weld outside, but they came out okay in the end.
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
I also set to welding up the K member, and prepping for install. I fully welded all the seams, reinforced the joints and the lca pivot area.
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Next was, out with the old and in with the new! Yay!
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Then I started getting the various and sundries back into place. We almost have disc brakes!!! Whooohoooo! Pretty close to getting wheels back on this thing and then getting the motor and upgraded 833 OD trans in. Still lots to do of course but it is starting to really take shape.
Treblig
Well-Known Member
Well, it is starting to look like an engine again. I hope the bearings hold up! It would be a real shame to get this thing resealed and cleaned up just to have it puke out on me. But the plan was cheap reseal, oil pump, water pump, and let 'er rip. 'Course that changed into something more complicated as always..........
I figured as long as it was out I'd install my 360/340 exhaust manifold set from FABO member Treblig. They look great! Thanks Gilbert. I used some big honkin' copper exh gaskets I had for them. I also put a modern elec distributor in as I will be adding the ecu, etc to the car. Heck I might even sand blast and repaint the old air cleaner
The magnum manifold on the passenger side will necessitate the oil filter adapter to be moved. Not sure if I'll be able to clock it such that it is useable, but will find out once it is back in the car.
Now on to reinforcing the K frame and getting it, along with, all the front disc brake stuff in there.
I just noticed this in your old post:
"The magnum manifold on the passenger side will necessitate the oil filter adapter to be moved. Not sure if I'll be able to clock it such that it is useable, but will find out once it is back in the car."
I have a 90 degree adapter on my '69 Barracuda and I simply rotated it to clear the magnum manifold. Take some care when you position the adapter to ensure that you can still get the filter changed when it comes time. I know that on my car I have to turn the steering all the way to one side to get the filter on/off (drag link), otherwise it's no problem at all.
Looking real nice and you're going to love it when it's done!!
treblig
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Ah, good to know. Wasn't sure if it would clock to a usable position, but didn't want to try until I got the engine back in so I could make sure there wasn't any interference with the torsion bar. Thanks again!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I know this reply is a bit late however the use of the rallye dash in the valiants actually had something to do with a long strike at the assembly plant that made the valiant dashes. So while the strike was going on they started using the cuda dashes in their place as a standard dash until the strike was over .
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ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Just posted this in suspension in case anyone wanted to try it, but posting it here b/c it is part of my build!
I don't have a tie rod adjusting tool, and hated them when I worked in a shop back in the day. I wanted to use a regular open end wrench to make my toe adjustments. I think I came up with a winner. We'll see when it is time to do the alignment!
Anyhow I took some nuts that measured just under an inch across the flats. I forget the exact measurement but I can check if anyone wants to know. Then I opened up the ID of the nut to the OD of the tie rod adjusting sleeve.
Next I milled two 1/4 inch slots in the ID of the nut so it would fit over the dimples on the ends of the tie rod sleeves.
Finally I red locktited the nuts to the center of the sleeve and locked the whole thing in place with a small piece of rod which goes through the slot in the tie rod adjusting sleeve and one of the slots in the nut.
I think they'll work great and if not I can whizzer wheel them off without too much fuss.
I don't have a tie rod adjusting tool, and hated them when I worked in a shop back in the day. I wanted to use a regular open end wrench to make my toe adjustments. I think I came up with a winner. We'll see when it is time to do the alignment!
Anyhow I took some nuts that measured just under an inch across the flats. I forget the exact measurement but I can check if anyone wants to know. Then I opened up the ID of the nut to the OD of the tie rod adjusting sleeve.
Next I milled two 1/4 inch slots in the ID of the nut so it would fit over the dimples on the ends of the tie rod sleeves.
Finally I red locktited the nuts to the center of the sleeve and locked the whole thing in place with a small piece of rod which goes through the slot in the tie rod adjusting sleeve and one of the slots in the nut.
I think they'll work great and if not I can whizzer wheel them off without too much fuss.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
I have always used a small pipe wrench
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Damn Chris. That's pretty damn cool. Nice work.
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
I also have a separate thread for this topic (new bronze brake and clutch bushings) but this is part of my build so posting it here again too.
These are available for sale. The thread is here: New bronze clutch and brake pedal bushings
So I wanted an upgrade from the old plastic bushings in my brake and clutch pedal pivots. This is what I came up with
1st pic is the finished bushings
2nd is the slugs it take takes to make these things!
3rd on the clutch rod and brake bore
4th all back together
These are available for sale. The thread is here: New bronze clutch and brake pedal bushings
So I wanted an upgrade from the old plastic bushings in my brake and clutch pedal pivots. This is what I came up with
1st pic is the finished bushings
2nd is the slugs it take takes to make these things!
3rd on the clutch rod and brake bore
4th all back together
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
I wanted to make the process repeatable so I could make these for other members as well. This is how I did that.
1st, I turned a 1" mandrel between centers to create a .5" shaft with an .810 working surface (for the STD size bush)
2nd, These are the finished mandrels for both the clutch and brake bushings.
3rd, I made collars for the mandrels. This helps me get my depths of cut consistent each time and gives me something solid to push against when cutting these very thin bushings.
4th, what the mandrels look like with bushings on them while working them in the lathe
I took some video of turning the bushings. I don't know much about video editing but maybe I'll try and post some on YouTube sometime
1st, I turned a 1" mandrel between centers to create a .5" shaft with an .810 working surface (for the STD size bush)
2nd, These are the finished mandrels for both the clutch and brake bushings.
3rd, I made collars for the mandrels. This helps me get my depths of cut consistent each time and gives me something solid to push against when cutting these very thin bushings.
4th, what the mandrels look like with bushings on them while working them in the lathe
I took some video of turning the bushings. I don't know much about video editing but maybe I'll try and post some on YouTube sometime
mopowers
Well-Known Member
So, when do you start taking orders?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Already got mine. Top notch machining.
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Anytime Evan. All the pricing etc.is in the link @ New bronze clutch and brake pedal bushings
The first batch sold pretty quick, so now I'm making a second batch.
I actually went and got a few quotes from CNC shops in my area (where I used to work among them) to have batches turned out. Unfortunately even 50-100 pieces at a time isn't enough to get the price low enough to be worth the initial outlay for me. So for now batches of 10-12 sets made in my home shop will continue to be the way.
Thanks!
CE
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Well, got a buch more work done. Finally got the subframe connectors tacked in. I'm going to have a professional do the final weld. Getting them fitted was a bit of a pain in the butt. Mainly b/c I'm working on my back on the floor. With a lift it wouldn't be bad at all. Thanks to US Car Tool! The connectors also make a great place to run brake and fuel lines. It gives you a much more direct route than the original lines. In addition I got the front brakes installed. Everything is bled down and should be good to go.
The fuel and brake lines will have to be unbolted from the subframe to weld it up, but I think there is plenty of slack to allow room for welding, and so that heat won't hurt the lines.
I sure hope the mounting position of my prop valve is okay! I would have liked to mount it knob up, but that wouldn't have worked well at all.
Don't mind my old boxer breifs on the floor What ?!? They make good rags!
The fuel and brake lines will have to be unbolted from the subframe to weld it up, but I think there is plenty of slack to allow room for welding, and so that heat won't hurt the lines.
I sure hope the mounting position of my prop valve is okay! I would have liked to mount it knob up, but that wouldn't have worked well at all.
Don't mind my old boxer breifs on the floor
What ?!? They make good rags!
ValiantOne
Well-Known Member
Got the new clutch all bolted up. Trans back on, and dropped it back into the car. Yay! Progress!
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