mygasser
Well-Known Member
it's no lower than a set of caltracs bars so i wouldn't worry. 
neil.
neil.
69 Dart 4 door cruiser
- Thread starter Kern Dog
- Start date
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I’m enjoying the process of bringing a dead car back.
The brakes were bled today with the help of a FABO friend, the guy in the red hat.
As always, I start at the right rear. Pump, pump, pump again 15 or more times and then crack open the bleeder screw. Nothing. Dry as a desert bone.
Rich joked…..You remember what your wife said…try the front first!
Funny story with that one. As car guys we often only value the opinions and advice from those that are experienced and skilled in car matters. Sometimes when a kid or a non car person talks about cars, we politely dismiss their words.
Mary was trying to help. We were bleeding the brakes in my Jigsaw Charger and I was getting no fluid to the rear wheel cylinders. The pedal was essentially freewheeling with no resistance no matter how many times she pumped it.
She asked why I started at the back. At the time, it felt like a silly question because everyone knows that you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Mary then said…Why not try the fronts?
Ok. I was frustrated and willing to try it. Guess what? Right front spewed scummy fluid, same with the left. Two cycles on each front caliper and the pedal firmed up. I went to the right rear and finally got pressure. The rest went like normal.
Now maybe I was just a few cycles from getting fluid to the back if I stayed back there but maybe the air in the front prevented the rear from getting enough pressure to get fluid back there ??
Who knows. The moral that I learned is that when a newbie makes a suggestion, don’t immediately disregard it. Her suggestion led to a successful brake bleeding job.
Back on point…
Here we were in a similar situation. No fluid to the right rear. I went to the left front and splotch! Ugly brown funky fluid and foam. Same with the right. The pedal now was as firm as you want.
The fluid was topped off and I moved to the right rear again. 5 pumps and HOLD. I cracked the bleeder screw and still, nothing. I pulled the screw out, nothing. The left rear was dry too.
Rich thought the long rear brake line could be plugged. I loosened the fittings at the T on the axle. Nothing. No fluid seeped out at all. Then I loosened the rear line fitting at the proportioning valve and spffffttt! Plenty of pressure there but no fluid to the rear lines or cylinders. The long line is blocked somewhere. I do have front brakes though. That is enough to move the car around the yard.
The brakes were bled today with the help of a FABO friend, the guy in the red hat.
As always, I start at the right rear. Pump, pump, pump again 15 or more times and then crack open the bleeder screw. Nothing. Dry as a desert bone.
Rich joked…..You remember what your wife said…try the front first!
Funny story with that one. As car guys we often only value the opinions and advice from those that are experienced and skilled in car matters. Sometimes when a kid or a non car person talks about cars, we politely dismiss their words.
Mary was trying to help. We were bleeding the brakes in my Jigsaw Charger and I was getting no fluid to the rear wheel cylinders. The pedal was essentially freewheeling with no resistance no matter how many times she pumped it.
She asked why I started at the back. At the time, it felt like a silly question because everyone knows that you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Mary then said…Why not try the fronts?
Ok. I was frustrated and willing to try it. Guess what? Right front spewed scummy fluid, same with the left. Two cycles on each front caliper and the pedal firmed up. I went to the right rear and finally got pressure. The rest went like normal.
Now maybe I was just a few cycles from getting fluid to the back if I stayed back there but maybe the air in the front prevented the rear from getting enough pressure to get fluid back there ??
Who knows. The moral that I learned is that when a newbie makes a suggestion, don’t immediately disregard it. Her suggestion led to a successful brake bleeding job.
Back on point…
Here we were in a similar situation. No fluid to the right rear. I went to the left front and splotch! Ugly brown funky fluid and foam. Same with the right. The pedal now was as firm as you want.
The fluid was topped off and I moved to the right rear again. 5 pumps and HOLD. I cracked the bleeder screw and still, nothing. I pulled the screw out, nothing. The left rear was dry too.
Rich thought the long rear brake line could be plugged. I loosened the fittings at the T on the axle. Nothing. No fluid seeped out at all. Then I loosened the rear line fitting at the proportioning valve and spffffttt! Plenty of pressure there but no fluid to the rear lines or cylinders. The long line is blocked somewhere. I do have front brakes though. That is enough to move the car around the yard.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i always start closest to the master and move away from it. i see it as pushing the air out at the closest point first then gradually working any remaining air out to the furthest away. never had any issues with bleeding brakes, unless there's a blocked line somewhere of course.
neil.
neil.
Here is a wiper motor that was in the trunk.
The engine bay of this car was stripped clean before I got the car.
No wiring, no brake lines, no wiper washer hoses, no master cylinder…
It was as if the car were stripped to repaint the engine bay. I think I have all the wiring but I’m not sure. Some stuff that came in the trunk is duplicates, some appear to be from this car. The wiper motor though….. it looks like the 3 speed units that I’ve seen in B and E bodies but the same design is in my 67 Dart….
It lays flat along the firewall like the 3 speed units all seem to do.
The wiring looks like so:
The 2 wire plug looks like what usually goes to the neutral safety switch on the transmission.
The standard 8 pin design here.
The switch in the dash of this car has no detents. You turn it and it just spins maybe 90-120 degrees. The 67 Dart dash switch is the same. The wipers work fine in that one. The speed of wiper movement does change from slow to faster but it seems like a trigger on a Sawzall.
Fuzzy memory on this, but were these variable speed units?
The engine bay of this car was stripped clean before I got the car.
No wiring, no brake lines, no wiper washer hoses, no master cylinder…
It was as if the car were stripped to repaint the engine bay. I think I have all the wiring but I’m not sure. Some stuff that came in the trunk is duplicates, some appear to be from this car. The wiper motor though….. it looks like the 3 speed units that I’ve seen in B and E bodies but the same design is in my 67 Dart….
It lays flat along the firewall like the 3 speed units all seem to do.
The wiring looks like so:
The 2 wire plug looks like what usually goes to the neutral safety switch on the transmission.
The standard 8 pin design here.
The switch in the dash of this car has no detents. You turn it and it just spins maybe 90-120 degrees. The 67 Dart dash switch is the same. The wipers work fine in that one. The speed of wiper movement does change from slow to faster but it seems like a trigger on a Sawzall.
Fuzzy memory on this, but were these variable speed units?
The proportioning valve could be in the blocked off position
Pull out the switch and see if it's centered
Blow air threw the brake line...
Takes a lot to bleed out a rear brake line
Pull out the switch and see if it's centered
Blow air threw the brake line...
Takes a lot to bleed out a rear brake line
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
The variable speed wiper motor in my car looks like the one you pictured. And yes wiper switch is a potentiometer to control wiper speed.
That is a great word...potentiometer.
So these are variable speed, thank you. I thought I heard that before but was not certain.
I have numerous underhood harnesses I can use and they will come in handy since I want to convert this to the stock electronic ignition. The dash side though....If I don't have an interior harness, I'll have to modify one of my 1973-76 harnesses. The plastic terminal ends are different so I'll have to find a way to connect to the instrument panel and switches.
So these are variable speed, thank you. I thought I heard that before but was not certain.
I have numerous underhood harnesses I can use and they will come in handy since I want to convert this to the stock electronic ignition. The dash side though....If I don't have an interior harness, I'll have to modify one of my 1973-76 harnesses. The plastic terminal ends are different so I'll have to find a way to connect to the instrument panel and switches.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Yeah when you wanna sound smart throw around big words like potentiometer....everyone will be like wow whats that he must be really smart....
Yep, I use that word over 10 times a day!
mygasser
Well-Known Member
it's easy, just eat at least one dictionary a week
I like perpendicular.....but with out spell check im lost
I got lucky....I laid under the dash and found that ALL of the dash wiring is there and intact!
The bulkhead plug was away from the firewall and stuffed up high. Why?
I pulled it down and pushed it into the firewall hole.
The engine side is easy....I have some harnesses from 1973-76 A body cars I can use. This will get me electronic ignition too.
The bulkhead plug was away from the firewall and stuffed up high. Why?
I pulled it down and pushed it into the firewall hole.
The engine side is easy....I have some harnesses from 1973-76 A body cars I can use. This will get me electronic ignition too.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
and looks clean not hacked
The drivers door can be sticky to open. The door panel is off because I did pull the door lock cylinder out to get a key made from it. The ignition cylinder matched so I have keys for the car.
I sprayed the back side of the lock and latch mechanisms.
The door closes nicely but using the outside door handle, the door sticks. It will open if you yank on it but it isn’t just springing open like it should. I thought that the door had sagged a bit by looking at the body gaps here.
See how the window frame for the front door has a tighter gap than the rear?
Now look at the right side. Just the opposite.
Is this Chrysler build quality or many years of use?
From inside, the door pops open with no trouble.
Bad door handle? Maybe. I swapped in another and now the door won’t open from outside at all.
I don’t have a spare latch to try. I have many 70-76 doors here but they changed designs sometime after this model year.
Looking inside, the door handle linkage is moving and the lever on it does move the guts of this latch but something is messed up.
I’ll keep tinkering….. I may stumble upon a fix.
I sprayed the back side of the lock and latch mechanisms.
The door closes nicely but using the outside door handle, the door sticks. It will open if you yank on it but it isn’t just springing open like it should. I thought that the door had sagged a bit by looking at the body gaps here.
See how the window frame for the front door has a tighter gap than the rear?
Now look at the right side. Just the opposite.
Is this Chrysler build quality or many years of use?
From inside, the door pops open with no trouble.
Bad door handle? Maybe. I swapped in another and now the door won’t open from outside at all.
I don’t have a spare latch to try. I have many 70-76 doors here but they changed designs sometime after this model year.
Looking inside, the door handle linkage is moving and the lever on it does move the guts of this latch but something is messed up.
I’ll keep tinkering….. I may stumble upon a fix.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
sounds like the cantilever mech' has some wear on the inside of the outer handle. either bend it for more travel, adjust the bit on the back of the button or if those fail add a blob of weld as needed to get more travel.
neil.
neil.
It is better now and will open from the outside but it isn’t quite right.
There is a steel linkage rod from the door handle to the latch, it has a little zig-zag bend to it. I took a little of the bend out of it, effectively making it slightly longer. It works but ideally, I should replace the latch. I suspect that this one also fits 2 door cars and maybe even rear doors in a 4 door model?
This car is going to be fun. The whitewalls and hub caps will have it looking like a stock cruiser but the 360-A500-8 1/4" axle with 3.92 gearing will have it ripping....The improved suspension will have it cutting corners quite well too.
There is a steel linkage rod from the door handle to the latch, it has a little zig-zag bend to it. I took a little of the bend out of it, effectively making it slightly longer. It works but ideally, I should replace the latch. I suspect that this one also fits 2 door cars and maybe even rear doors in a 4 door model?
This car is going to be fun. The whitewalls and hub caps will have it looking like a stock cruiser but the 360-A500-8 1/4" axle with 3.92 gearing will have it ripping....The improved suspension will have it cutting corners quite well too.
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Yep. Used on electric fork lifts,golf carts etc.
Kern, if you want to put 3 point belts in your ride.
Did this on 2 4 door A body cars. That stainless trim covering the post hides a hole drilled from the outside and a reinforced plate/bolt for attaching. Only photo I have of a 68 Valiant 4 door.
That is a great idea.
Thank you.
Thank you.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
my 68 valiant signet (2dr) did, maybe it was an option?
neil.
Yeah my 69 2 door did
My 69 Dart has that goofy separate shoulder belt attached above the window, as does my 72 Coronet. I found a place that sells a full 3-point belt upgrade that replaces the static shoulder belt. The new belts arrived but I haven't put them in the wagon yet. They should be a nice improvement.
Until 1974, I thought that all the factory Mopar seat belts were separate. The uppers did not have retractors but the bottom ones started to have them at some point. I've retrofitted 1974-76 A body belt assemblies into earlier 2 door A body cars but that won't work with a 4 door. The retractor is big and it hides inside the quarter panel area just behind the door jamb.
Aftermarket belts come assembled a couple of ways. I have a set from Ssnayk Oyl that were not perfect but they did work okay.
The rear brakes on this car....
Since I couldn't get fluid to the back of the car, I may disconnect the point where the hard line connects to the brake hose on the axle. If I get fluid there, maybe the blockage is in the hose itself. Those are easy to get. The hard line though....
I have this car out back...
It is a 1976 Dart Lite.
I was hoping that the legislation pending in this state would exempt it from emission testing so I could feel good about spending money on it to get it running. They did move forward with a watered down bill that will allow NO emission testing of year model 1980 and older cars BUT to get around that, I'd need collector car plates and collector car insurance, limited miles and use. Parades, car shows and other mundane usage. I was hoping that the law would fully exempt the old cars so we could modify and drive them as much as we wanted. Even so, the law goes into effect in January 2027 so I have 18 months before I could register it anyway. Complying with emission laws means I am limited to only engines the car could have been built with meaning the best would be a 318 2 barrel with catalytic converters and single exhaust. I don't think they made a 360 model in 1976 but if they did, it would have been making no more than 160 HP.
Anyway....
Plans change. The white Dart Sport has a good front to rear brake line, fuel lines and a few other bits and pieces. I'm in no hurry to cut the D-Lite up, it can sit up the hill until I decide what to do with it. I'll pick what I need from it and IF I decide to put the car together in the future, I'll need to piece it back together too.
Aftermarket belts come assembled a couple of ways. I have a set from Ssnayk Oyl that were not perfect but they did work okay.
The rear brakes on this car....
Since I couldn't get fluid to the back of the car, I may disconnect the point where the hard line connects to the brake hose on the axle. If I get fluid there, maybe the blockage is in the hose itself. Those are easy to get. The hard line though....
I have this car out back...
It is a 1976 Dart Lite.
I was hoping that the legislation pending in this state would exempt it from emission testing so I could feel good about spending money on it to get it running. They did move forward with a watered down bill that will allow NO emission testing of year model 1980 and older cars BUT to get around that, I'd need collector car plates and collector car insurance, limited miles and use. Parades, car shows and other mundane usage. I was hoping that the law would fully exempt the old cars so we could modify and drive them as much as we wanted. Even so, the law goes into effect in January 2027 so I have 18 months before I could register it anyway. Complying with emission laws means I am limited to only engines the car could have been built with meaning the best would be a 318 2 barrel with catalytic converters and single exhaust. I don't think they made a 360 model in 1976 but if they did, it would have been making no more than 160 HP.
Anyway....
Plans change. The white Dart Sport has a good front to rear brake line, fuel lines and a few other bits and pieces. I'm in no hurry to cut the D-Lite up, it can sit up the hill until I decide what to do with it. I'll pick what I need from it and IF I decide to put the car together in the future, I'll need to piece it back together too.
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DionR
Well-Known Member
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