69 Dart GT Conv. 340-6pak

-
Hey Doug,
I think we've had this conversation before, but just in case.... Your Riding and I'm Walking!!! LOL
How have you been?
Maritn
 
Today I finished installing the grommets for the heat/air unit. I also cut the new drain hole, since the original one was too far away to use. I installed the wiper seals and linkage. I then moved on to shiny stuff, I put the repo DC valve cover on that my wife and son got me for Christmas a while back. Things are lining up for an engine and trans install, Friday or Saturday.
Wish me luck...

View attachment 1714708515

IMG_3253.JPG


IMG_3254.JPG
 
Last edited:
How many amps is your alt rated at? What's the diameter of the crank pulley? Yours is definitely going to be on the road before mine. Let me know how it charges at idle.

Also, tell me about the steering box. I've never driven a manual steering car. I'm afraid the 24 to 1 ratio of the stock box is going to be too slow.
 
dang!! Do you provide sun glasses/ screen when opening the hood?


how is the chrome shop doing on your pieces? Lawrence
 
burdar said:
How many amps is your alt rated at? What's the diameter of the crank pulley? Yours is definitely going to be on the road before mine. Let me know how it charges at idle.
Click to expand...

Darren,
The alternator is rated at 100 amps but the pulleys are under driven. When I go to the shop tomorrow, I measure the crank pulley, and drop you a line.
 
My pulleys are under driven too. Let me know how it works for you and where you got the alt. the Powermasters I've seen are rated at 75amps.

I updated my post above...have any specs on the steering box?
 
VDART said:
dang!! Do you provide sun glasses/ screen when opening the hood?


how is the chrome shop doing on your pieces? Lawrence
Click to expand...

I guess shades are optionable LOL! I'm still waiting on the chrome. Hopefully no news is good news. I have a local friend of mine that has used them before and his stuff is really nice. We'll see...
 
burdar said:
My pulleys are under driven too. Let me know how it works for you and where you got the alt. the Powermasters I've seen are rated at 75amps.

I updated my post above...have any specs on the steering box?
Click to expand...

My alternator is a TuffStuff. I called them and gave them my info and they recommended this part number #7509RCSP. According to them with the under drive, it should be at aprox 65 amps. Got it from Summit. The Gear is #32508. It's the quicker ratio, not sure what it is. I think it's 3.5 turns lock to lock.
 
Good News !!!
The motor and transmission are in the Dart finally !!! This morning I lifted the Dart up and started the motor and trans installation. I rolled it under the car and I had a couple of motor heads over to spot me as I lifted and lowered the car down on the K member/motor/trans.. I installed 2, 12" threaded rods,one into the front right and one into the rear left mounting hole in the K member. It went much smoother than I thought. The bad news is some of the TRICK stuff I did, had to be taken off. The oil pressure sending unit/oil pressure gauge was going to hit the firewall so I removed all of it and re-installed just the sending unit and of course it cleared fine. The trick Lokar trans mission dipstick will not clear my firewall/floor pan pinch weld with out some modification. The part that bolts into the transmission is too tall to clear and the braided hose pinched. All is painted and nice so I have elected to not do any modification to it. I'll take it out of the trans tomorrow. I'll be installing an oem style mopar dipstick next week. Other than those two items everything else is a go. Man it's been about 5 years since that bay has had an engine in it, non the less a fatter one.

View attachment 1714708929

View attachment 1714708930

IMG_3258.JPG


IMG_3259.JPG


IMG_3290.JPG
 
Last edited:
Looking good Martin... checkin out that new pulley setup. Youre on a roll now my brother- cant wait to see that thing at the MOPAR NATS this year!!!
 
DA69RT GT said:
Looking good Martin... checkin out that new pulley setup. Youre on a roll now my brother- cant wait to see that thing at the MOPAR NATS this year!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks Doug,
The Nats are in my plans. I just hope I don't have many more set backs and back orders...
 
Hey Martin, Nice work getting that in from under the car.

I noticed you are using the US car tool stand and bumper Hoist.

Was there anything that you learned from the install that you could share. Tips and such.


Thanks

AlV
 
AlV said:
Hey Martin, Nice work getting that in from under the car.

I noticed you are using the US car tool stand and bumper Hoist.

Was there anything that you learned from the install that you could share. Tips and such.


Thanks

AlV
Click to expand...

Hey "V"
The bumper hoist is pretty straight forward, just bolt it on at the bumper bracket holes. The engine/K-member stand is a little more un steady. The stand works well, you just need to strap the K-member and transmission down to the stand for stability. Without doing that its very un steady. After it's strapped down, it a piece of cake. Rolls nice and easy.
 
Friday was not too bad as I had a little time to start reassembling the front suspension. My plan was to assemble the spindle, shocks, lower ball joints, caliper brackets. As I started bolting all together, I noticed that the repo disc brake shield holes for the lower ball joint bolts were off just a little, so I used the die grinder to open them up a little. All fits good now. I came down with a sinus infection today (thanks pollen) so I did not work on it, maybe tomorrow.

View attachment 1714711186

IMG_3296.JPG


IMG_3298.JPG
 
So what are the specs on the front suspension? I see you have tubular UCA's. Are you using the 73+ spindles? What about the strut rods and LCA's?
 
burdar said:
So what are the specs on the front suspension? I see you have tubular UCA's. Are you using the 73+ spindles? What about the strut rods and LCA's?
Click to expand...

Hey Darren,
The front suspension is as follows: The K member is welded solid all the way around, no just spot welded. OEM 73 up spindles, caliper brackets, and calipers. The rotors are drilled 73 up (got them off ebay several years ago, not sure who made them). The disc brake shields are repo off ebay and had to open the holes up a little for the caliper bracket bolts to fit in. The upper control arms are Dillenger. The strut rods are Hotchkis. The lower control arms are OEM 69 with the stiffening plates welded in and new lca bushings installed. The drag link, inner and outer tie rod ends, adjustment sleeves, idler arm, and pittman arm are all OEM. The steering gear is Flaming River. The torsion bars are NOS 892,893, powder coated. The shocks are gabriels and had to paint them to match the rears. The front sway bar is 1 1/8" Addco, gold anodized but I'm pretty sure that I will have it powder coated silver. Thats pretty much it, if I could only snap my fingers and all would be on my world would be in sync.
Martin
 
Heya Martin,

The second week of May I'm heading out to Douglasville Georgia to pick up a bike and will make stop over in Cary.
What is the name of the BBQ place you mentioned a few months back? I may have to check it out :)

AlV
 
AlV said:
Heya Martin,

The second week of May I'm heading out to Douglasville Georgia to pick up a bike and will make stop over in Cary.
What is the name of the BBQ place you mentioned a few months back? I may have to check it out :)

AlV
Click to expand...
Hey "V",
That would be Parker's BBQ, Hwy 301 South, in Wilson. Best eat'n you've ever had. If you can pin down a day and time, I'd like to join ya. It's less than 10 miles from where I live. Wilson is about 60 or so miles from Cary, but on Hwy 264 east, speed limit is 70. My son plays the saxophone and is competing at Kings Dominion, in Virginia on May 22, any other weekend we're free. Drop me a line,
Martin
 
Today I picked up the last of the GO Green parts from Classic Auto Works. In the column I put new bearings, bushings, turn signal switch, turn signal handle and canceling cam. The only thing left to do to it is to coat the lower shaft with an anti rust adhibitor and rebuilt the joint with a kit that I already have. Mopars at the Rock at Rockingham Dragway is tomorrow, so I want get a chance to work on it then, so we'll have to see how much I get done this weekend.

IMG_3311.jpg
 
So far this week end I have managed to put the drag link, pittman arm, inner & outer tie rod ends, and idler arm on. None of them are tightened all the way as I want the front end shop to adjust all thats needed. I have the calipers painted and since I'm off tomorrow, I'm gonna try to completely finish putting on the rotors and calipers on both sides. Since the Lokar trans dipstick want fit my application, I have also installed a factory style dipstick and tube.

View attachment 1714715361

View attachment 1714715362

View attachment 1714715363

View attachment 1714715364

IMG_3317.JPG


IMG_3318.JPG


IMG_3319.JPG


IMG_3320.JPG


IMG_3321.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top