I ordered a set of cometic head gaskets, I’ll pull the passenger head hopefully Monday and put a game plan together based on why I find.
'69 Valiant 2DR Project
- Thread starter DNasty777
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DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Wish you good luck!
I'm sitting at work thinking about the car and I got to wondering. If I put compressed air in the spark plug hole, might I be able to hear where the air is leaving the chamber? Maybe this will help narrow down if it's one of the valves (hopefully) or the rings (please no).
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You’ve never heard of a leak down test?
Of course! I'm just trying to do it without buying the tool.
abdywgn
dismantler
would gutting a spark plug, threading the inside of the base for NPT, put a long nipple in it and a Milton type air hose fitting on the end work?
Thats a crazy good idea! I'll see if I can cook something up.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I use the end of my compression tester. It plugs right in to my air compressor. It won’t give you leak down percentages but you certainly can hear where the air is escaping
Do you not have a compression tester? You can use the hose to connect to shop air.
Yeah, THAT ^^^^^
I didn't even think about the compression tester, I'll give that a try.
I've been making a little progress on the valiant. Started chopping up the torsion bar crossmember to clearance it for the 8HP. I also got some 1.6 HS rockers from a member, so I'm switching to external shaft oiling for the rockers. Along with the rockers I picked up a cam, not sure if it's ideal for my combo but if it's better than the stock one I'll be happy. It's a 230/236/114LSA and with the 1.6 rockers .544/.555 lift. I also picked up some race goodies off ebay. I think eventually I'll switch over to a motor plate and use this dry-sump system.
8hp , are you trying to cruise at 200 mph getting 30 mpg ? lolI've been making a little progress on the valiant. Started chopping up the torsion bar crossmember to clearance it for the 8HP. I also got some 1.6 HS rockers from a member, so I'm switching to external shaft oiling for the rockers. Along with the rockers I picked up a cam, not sure if it's ideal for my combo but if it's better than the stock one I'll be happy. It's a 230/236/114LSA and with the 1.6 rockers .544/.555 lift. I also picked up some race goodies off ebay. I think eventually I'll switch over to a motor plate and use this dry-sump system.
That’d be a bonus, all at 1500rpm. It’s the transbrake and lockup that I’m after really.
Oh yeah, that's going to be a kick *** set up.
Anyone have thoughts on if its worth it to touch up the sharp edges in the combustion chamber? I have the heads apart to clearance the pushrod holes and I'm having "while I'm in there" thoughts.
There's some nasty burrs left over from the spark plug threading that I'll definitely touch up, but what about the ledges around the valve job in the chamber and in the throat? If I don't go crazy I won't mess anything up, right?
Shame I didn't get to this earlier, I'm sure PBR would have loved to chime in. I'll be digging through some of his threads for info, but if anyone has any suggestions feel free to chime in.
There's some nasty burrs left over from the spark plug threading that I'll definitely touch up, but what about the ledges around the valve job in the chamber and in the throat? If I don't go crazy I won't mess anything up, right?
Shame I didn't get to this earlier, I'm sure PBR would have loved to chime in. I'll be digging through some of his threads for info, but if anyone has any suggestions feel free to chime in.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Just lightly blend the sharp edges of the valve job in to the bowl. Don’t touch the valve job and definitely dont touch the seats with the carbide or sanding roll. No sharp edges anywhere.
Yep, 2nd that.
I've got a set of junk stock magnum valves I'll put in the heads to protect the seat and I'll stick to the cartridge roll.
I can't help myself, so I tubed the pushrod and head bolt holes. Also started going at the intake manifold. It's almost as if I never want this thing back together.
I also designed some parts to replace the Jeep cam sync with a lower profile Ford one. I have a design for a completely custom one utilizing a Honeywell sensor, but its almost twice as much so I'm holding off on that for now.
Old design, utilizing a stock distributor hold down and spacer not shown.
Here's the new design, Ford sync body with a billet hold down and custom shaft to mate to the oil pump drive.
As you can see, it is much more low profile. My custom one sits approximately 1/2" lower than the Ford one.
Old design, utilizing a stock distributor hold down and spacer not shown.
Here's the new design, Ford sync body with a billet hold down and custom shaft to mate to the oil pump drive.
As you can see, it is much more low profile. My custom one sits approximately 1/2" lower than the Ford one.
The intake is done and so is the throttle body elbow. I think it came out better than I expected, nice smooth transitions from elbow to manifold. Trying to work up the courage to start on the heads.
This is the final revision of my custom cam sensor. I bit the bullet and had one machined, just have to order the sensor from mouser.
This is the final revision of my custom cam sensor. I bit the bullet and had one machined, just have to order the sensor from mouser.
Started on the intake ports today. I'm not changing any dimensions of the bowl, throat, short side, or floor. Just getting rid of push rod pinch, the bulge for the head bolt and any casting flash/machining irregularities. First picture is a before and after comparison. Third picture is smoothing/blending out the spark plug threads.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I’m not a cylinder head or intake porting guru, in fact far from one, but looking at your intake pic, the radius at the bottom of the flange at the port entry should be much less of an angle and more of a radius. At least from my limited experience and from conversations I’ve had with people smarter than I am. See crude red arrow drawing below.
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