7 1/4 Differential Sure-Grip 1965

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65_Dart_GT

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Anyone know where or if it's even possible to get a 7-14 differential for a 1965 Dodge Dart GT
I'm here in Ontario Canada
 
They show up from time to time. The big problem for a 7 1/4 SG is that there is good chance the clutches are worn out, by now. I haven't seen any new clutch kits for sale in about 4-5 years. The last kit I got was $150, and I just installed it in a LBP 7 1/4 with 5.13 gears.
 
They show up from time to time. The big problem for a 7 1/4 SG is that there is good chance the clutches are worn out, by now. I haven't seen any new clutch kits for sale in about 4-5 years. The last kit I got was $150, and I just installed it in a LBP 7 1/4 with 5.13 gears.

Thanks Charrlie I'll keep looking. There is quite a thunk when I engage to drive or reverse and I am guessing there is a lot of lash in the rear.
 
I have some non sure grips rears I would sell if you needed one. I am just south of Detroit.
 
Thanks Charrlie I'll keep looking. There is quite a thunk when I engage to drive or reverse and I am guessing there is a lot of lash in the rear.
There are other places for that clunk to originate. I think 65 has ball and trunnion type universal joint.
 
Im betting it has the ball and trunnion. No point speculating,diagnose and repair the problem. The longer you put it off, the more it will cost in the end. For all you know its a bad u-joint.
 
Thanks Charrlie I'll keep looking. There is quite a thunk when I engage to drive or reverse and I am guessing there is a lot of lash in the rear.
Is there any reason you need to keep the 7 1/4? There are other options, for rears, that are easier to get parts for. Also as stated, the rear might or might not be the problem. Find out for sure, first.
 
Im going through a similar issue with my barracuda and dart.
Both need rears.
Barracuda has a ford cobbled in it,for rolling it only,i found an open 7-1/4” for $100.
The dart is getting 8-1/4” from an 80’s diplomat,hopefully my sure grip is still intact.
 
They show up from time to time. The big problem for a 7 1/4 SG is that there is good chance the clutches are worn out, by now. I haven't seen any new clutch kits for sale in about 4-5 years. The last kit I got was $150, and I just installed it in a LBP 7 1/4 with 5.13 gears.
I bought one from (gulp) Mitchell's via eBay last month. $195 and I think it was their last one.
 
There are other places for that clunk to originate. I think 65 has ball and trunnion type universal joint.

Interesting, I do believe it does have the ball and trunion type. New universals 2 years ago did not change the thunk but I'll check again. Thanks RedFish!
 
Im betting it has the ball and trunnion. No point speculating,diagnose and repair the problem. The longer you put it off, the more it will cost in the end. For all you know its a bad u-joint.

I will look into that Tooljunkie, thanks.
 
Is there any reason you need to keep the 7 1/4? There are other options, for rears, that are easier to get parts for. Also as stated, the rear might or might not be the problem. Find out for sure, first.

Nope no reason except maybe cost of finding the right one. Would be stronger. I guess I better learn how to make sure its the rear end. To this point it has burned up all the oil twice and last time into the shop it was very hot to the touch. Those are other reasons I suspect the rear. If I could teach myself how to figure out a bolt on 8 I would make the move.
 
Im going through a similar issue with my barracuda and dart.
Both need rears.
Barracuda has a ford cobbled in it,for rolling it only,i found an open 7-1/4” for $100.
The dart is getting 8-1/4” from an 80’s diplomat,hopefully my sure grip is still intact.

is the 80's diplomat a good bolt on or is there issues that need to be changed first? Knowing that would help my search for one. And I would be doing a driveway fix either way
 
You haven't mentioned a whine noise from that 7.25, only the clunk. That puzzles me. And that's why I suggested other sources of the clunk. A worn/overheating gear box should whine. Anyway.... Anything other than a small bolt pattern 7.25 from the a-body will require some change. A small bolt pattern 8.75 from a a-body will require drive shaft length change. 8.25 from a later model a-body will require wheel/bolt pattern change and drive shaft length change. A rear form something other than a-body will require spring perches moved along with some of the other changes.
So outside of finding a good used small bolt pattern 7.25 from a a-body, the 8.75 is the least complicated swap. That 8.75 a heavy duty/performance piece so hot-rodder's will pay a premium for them. Their deep pocket swaps can be where the good used 7.25 rear comes from. Good hunting
 
You haven't mentioned a whine noise from that 7.25, only the clunk. That puzzles me. And that's why I suggested other sources of the clunk. A worn/overheating gear box should whine. Anyway.... Anything other than a small bolt pattern 7.25 from the a-body will require some change. A small bolt pattern 8.75 from a a-body will require drive shaft length change. 8.25 from a later model a-body will require wheel/bolt pattern change and drive shaft length change. A rear form something other than a-body will require spring perches moved along with some of the other changes.
So outside of finding a good used small bolt pattern 7.25 from a a-body, the 8.75 is the least complicated swap. That 8.75 a heavy duty/performance piece so hot-rodder's will pay a premium for them. Their deep pocket swaps can be where the good used 7.25 rear comes from. Good hunting

Yup only the heavy thunk when initially going to drive or reverse. After driving awhile seems less of a thunk but still there. She drives real nice no whines no other noises for the last couple of years. Rebuild transmission last year by a shop and I and some friends finally put the rebuild 273 in. loves to run since doing those things. Vintage Carter 4 bble loves to drink. Really appreciate the insight into the 8.75
Roger
 
Check for a worn pinion support bearing. You'll get a good clunk from that, similar to a worn u joint. It MAY not cause a constant vibration depending on how worn it is, you may only feel a vibration at a certain rpm. I've had happen to me, It only vibrated at 55 mph to about 70 mph.
 
Check for a worn pinion support bearing. You'll get a good clunk from that, similar to a worn u joint. It MAY not cause a constant vibration depending on how worn it is, you may only feel a vibration at a certain rpm. I've had happen to me, It only vibrated at 55 mph to about 70 mph.

Thank you P.J.H. that will be the first thing I check when I get her out of storage in the spring. Sucks I have to wait that long but it's packed in with 3 other classics and I can't get to her now. I noticed you are from Ontario if thats in Canada I too am in Ontario. Thanks again for your thoughts
Rog
 
Thank you P.J.H. that will be the first thing I check when I get her out of storage in the spring. Sucks I have to wait that long but it's packed in with 3 other classics and I can't get to her now. I noticed you are from Ontario if thats in Canada I too am in Ontario. Thanks again for your thoughts
Rog

Yes, I'm in Ontario too. I know all too well the dilemma of a car buried in storage.
 
Yes, I'm in Ontario too. I know all too well the dilemma of a car buried in storage.

Yes no fun, wish I had a garage to work in all winter on the car. Oh well at least I'm patient, been working on her since 2008 but she drives and rides nice and is fun to take to cruises including MoparFest last 3 years
 
Yup only the heavy thunk when initially going to drive or reverse. After driving awhile seems less of a thunk but still there. She drives real nice no whines no other noises for the last couple of years. Rebuild transmission last year by a shop and I and some friends finally put the rebuild 273 in. loves to run since doing those things. Vintage Carter 4 bble loves to drink. Really appreciate the insight into the 8.75
Roger
That thunk is called the chrysler clunk haha
 
Oh ya! We all know the Chrysler clunk! It's when it starts sounding like a Chevy clunk that we start to look for problems. I think that's the issue here.
 
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