70 Duster Eagle Hemi Swap, No Spark!

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You may not be that far off, I would take the harness and try to plug it onto your engine. You may have to extend some wires for the 6.1 intake or change some connectors because of year changes, but nothing too bad. I started with an 07 mds jeep harness and converted it to the non mds 04 truck harness (because it was cheap) with two or three connector changes.
 
I started messing with my harness again. I am using a 2005 ram 1500 ecm. I am getting power to the coils just no trigger/signal. My schematics are not that great.
My starter is being controlled through my PCM and cranks.

I was wondering if anyone knows what pin/pins need grounded for the park neutral switch in order to let the coils to fire?

Do you use anything on the C4 connector on the PCM?
Its the orange plug that I believe mostly goes to the trans. I am using a 4-speed manual trans.

Also I see a few TRS(transmission solenoid) sense wires that I am not using at the moment.
Do I need these for anything??

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
try manually bumping the starter with a screwdriver or jumper wire with the key in the run position. See what that does.
 
I currently don't have my ecu I sent it to get it checked and remove the skim. There were two wires I connected to battery +.

one was C1 pin #11 Fused ignition switch circuit (Run-start)
The other was C1 pin #12 Fused ignition switch circuit (off-Run-start)

Then by touching the wire from C1 Pin#30 ignition switch output (start) to the battery + I could get it to crank just no spark.

I was trying to get it to fire on starting fluid on the floor to test my wire harness and didn't have a fuel pump hooked up to it. I didn't think that this would be an issue due to the fact that there is no fuel pressure sensor to tell the ecu if there is fuel.
 
Did anyone get the start function figured out on 2009 up pcm. Im a chrysler tech have all the diagrams. I have both asd br/wt i have initial 1.8 second power up of coils but no low side driver on coils or injectors. I can manually crank the engine by jumping the relay but i have no low side driver from pcm for starter circuit. Also this is going in a 74 duster and i have hp tuners and have disabled skim.
 
I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I posted this in another place and didn't get an answer.
OK, tied both wires (run/start and run) together and put them on a toggle switch just to make sure we had power in the run position. Starter circuit through the computer. It fired ONE TIME!!Wouldn't do it anymore. We figured out the ASD and Fuel pump relays are dropping out almost immediately. That's why it fired that one time. It fired before it dropped out. Also the throttle motor only works in the start position. It comes on and then goes back off. I guess it is also controlled by the ASD relay. What could be causing the relays to drop out?

Easy
 
I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I posted this in another place and didn't get an answer.
OK, tied both wires (run/start and run) together and put them on a toggle switch just to make sure we had power in the run position. Starter circuit through the computer. It fired ONE TIME!!Wouldn't do it anymore. We figured out the ASD and Fuel pump relays are dropping out almost immediately. That's why it fired that one time. It fired before it dropped out. Also the throttle motor only works in the start position. It comes on and then goes back off. I guess it is also controlled by the ASD relay. What could be causing the relays to drop out?

Easy

With no crank sensor signal the ASD shuts down in 3-5 seconds turning off the fuel pump, injectors and coils.
 
Bumb for this thread. having same issue. Did this get sorted out?

So my situation.
No ground pulse to coils, and i DO got injector pulse, +12v feed ok to both when turning ignition on and when starting. No fault codes expect than from IAT and when cranking bit longer, high voltage from o2 sensor.

Starter isn´t PCM controlled, and not having such option in my wiring loom.

I have 2007 6.1 Hemi with manual, and just mounted retrofit PCM and wiring loom kit from Swap Specialties and performance. No idea about wiring diagram how they have made it, C1 pins 9,18,19 are grounded, should something else be that can affect this? Not having actual ASD relay, relaybox is made in Swap Specialties. PCM is from -09 Challenger, no C4 connector. Help would be appreciated...

My car has been running couple years with aftermarket ecu but now decided to go with OEM.

We did try to check this with HPtuners and i have savefile from that if someone interested want to check that.
 
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Have you checked to see if you have power with the key on and in cranking position? Chances are that you are losing your coils upon cranking. Have you tried manually bumping the starter with a screwdriver, with the power on, not in crank position?

Bumb for this thread. having same issue. Did this get sorted out?

So my situation.
No ground pulse to coils, and i DO got injector pulse, +12v feed ok to both when turning ignition on and when starting. No fault codes expect than from IAT and when cranking bit longer, high voltage from o2 sensor.

Starter isn´t PCM controlled, and not having such option in my wiring loom.

I have 2007 6.1 Hemi with manual, and just mounted retrofit PCM and wiring loom kit from Swap Specialties and performance. No idea about wiring diagram how they have made it, C1 pins 9,18,19 are grounded, should something else be that can affect this? Not having actual ASD relay, relaybox is made in Swap Specialties. PCM is from -09 Challenger, no C4 connector. Help would be appreciated...

My car has been running couple years with aftermarket ecu but now decided to go with OEM.

We did try to check this with HPtuners and i have savefile from that if someone interested want to check that.
 
Have you checked to see if you have power with the key on and in cranking position? Chances are that you are losing your coils upon cranking. Have you tried manually bumping the starter with a screwdriver, with the power on, not in crank position?

Yes i have, i had that problem with previous engine management, and installed indivudual starting push button then for temperaly solution.

So yes, i have power for injectors and coils when ignition on, when starting and when keep starting longer period. And tested that also with 60w test bulb from coil connector.
 
It is kind of unclear from not being there hands on, but it almost appears as there is a wire hooked up wrong. I know when I used a Hotwire Auto wiring, there had to be the same wire connected to the on position and to the run position for it to work correctly. I see swap specialties do not give there directions online, so it is hard to determine without looking at them.

Yes i have, i had that problem with previous engine management, and installed individual starting push button then for temporary solution.

So yes, i have power for injectors and coils when ignition on, when starting and when keep starting longer period. And tested that also with 60w test bulb from coil connector.
 
It is kind of unclear from not being there hands on, but it almost appears as there is a wire hooked up wrong. I know when I used a Hotwire Auto wiring, there had to be the same wire connected to the on position and to the run position for it to work correctly. I see swap specialties do not give there directions online, so it is hard to determine without looking at them.

There may be something wrong at loom connections or wire missing, but not quite possible at installing connections, there were not much to connect on manual car :D Fuel pump feed, battery, ground, acc and fans power and relay ground. That was it.

But power stays on ecu and coils/injectors in all circumstances. Only thing that seem to be missing is that coils negative pulse.

And Swap specialties. Oh my... their customer support protocal seems to be, that they block buyers mail and phone after receiving payment, until that point they were very helpful.

No any instructions with package, no answers to any questions. They have deleted their facebook pages etc.
 
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