green1
Well-Known Member
Seepage- the water stays cooler under pressure.
70 Still getting hot, what else to look for?
- Thread starter Lars
- Start date
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2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Just a wild guess. Did you have the block boiled out before you re-built? If not, you may have the same issue I had.
Remove the block drains and see if coolant runs out. The bottom of the 318 in the Demon was full of junk which decreased the amount of coolant available to flow through the system.. If you don't get a good stream of coolant out of each drain, IMO you have the same issue.
Remove the block drains and see if coolant runs out. The bottom of the 318 in the Demon was full of junk which decreased the amount of coolant available to flow through the system.. If you don't get a good stream of coolant out of each drain, IMO you have the same issue.
69swinger340391
Well-Known Member
As mentioned before, check your timing. Not enough initial advance will cause it to run hot. Retard the timing enough, and it will overheat uncontrollably.
Did you do a cylinder leak down test? Remove the plugs, pump compressed air into the cylinders one at a time, remove the rad cap and look for bubbles in the antifreeze. This would indicate a head gasket leak.
What strength antifreeze are you using? a 50/50 mixture is best. If there is too much antifreeze, 70% or more, heat transfer is very poor and it will run hot and overheat.
You can use pure water (best for heat transfer) for short term testing, which will let it run cooler, but the antifreeze is needed for corrosion as well as the freeze protection.
Hope this helps
Did you do a cylinder leak down test? Remove the plugs, pump compressed air into the cylinders one at a time, remove the rad cap and look for bubbles in the antifreeze. This would indicate a head gasket leak.
What strength antifreeze are you using? a 50/50 mixture is best. If there is too much antifreeze, 70% or more, heat transfer is very poor and it will run hot and overheat.
You can use pure water (best for heat transfer) for short term testing, which will let it run cooler, but the antifreeze is needed for corrosion as well as the freeze protection.
Hope this helps
Lars
Well-Known Member
Autometer electric gauge, been using the same one on two other engines and it has always seemed accurate.
Yeah the intake does seep around the thermo housing, I have a new Air-gap intake sitting on the shelf, but I wanted to to heads at the same time.
Yeah, block was boiled out, it was clean when I put it together.
Haven't done a leak down, I'm running 50/50 Peak antifreeze, I plan to try the timing this weekend, whats a good base to start with? I think I'm running 12 degrees now.
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
I hate to ask this but can ya give us a pic of the water pump,does it look like a big howitzer gun on the front or have the barrels been machined off from the factory,the one that looks like a howitzer is a standard pump and the other is a high volume pump,although it may sound wrong but the water needs to slow down so the high volume pump may not be the way to go and as was suggested install a 195* thermostat...this will keep the water in the radiator longer to allow it to cool sufficiently.the high volume pump caused me similar problems on my 340 in the duster but now all is good with 195* thermostat,stock type radiator and no schroud whatsoever
68dodge
Well-Known Member
Did you try a higher pressure cap? Some times a higher pressure cap works.
green1
Well-Known Member
seepage already; new cap wont' cure it.
BubbaCuda
Well-Known Member
I put one of these triple flow desert coolers in 65 barracuda. The 408 would run 220 before i changed the radiator.I tried all of the above first. Now it never goes over 185 even on a 90 degree day in traffic. Its a little pricey but the fit is perfect and you will not have any more heating issues.
http://www.usradiator.com/default.htm
http://www.usradiator.com/default.htm
BubbaCuda
Well-Known Member
Do you have a chrome thermostat housing. I did and it seeped all the time. I switched to the billet one made by Mancini's and the leak went away..
Lars
Well-Known Member
Its a standard pump I got from Oreillies.
Yeah, chrome housing, plus I know the intake is warped at the housing also.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Just one thought on your overheating. First is it overheating in traffic or when you are driving down the road? I have a 69 Swinger 340 and no matter WHAT I tried I just couldn't get it to run cool in traffic. After trying every cooling trick in the book I stumbled on the cause. If you have a fiberglass hood like mine and it does not have a rubber seal (like the factory hoods) on the underside of the hood that mates with the rad support, hot under hood air will come out from under the hood and will be sucked back through the rad and will be heated up more and then back out and back through the rad and eventually the car will overheat. I temporarily used foam pipe insulation held onto the rad support with zip ties. What a drastic improvement. Give it a try it's a cheap test. Good Luck
Lars
Well-Known Member
Yeah I have an AAR sixpack. It happens when sitting still in traffic or in my driveway, doesn't matter. Once I get moving its all good and it cools down asap.
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