71 Dart 410 stroker ..

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Got everything done this afternoon.....we poured atf in the trans...and the floor began to turn red...I forgot to put the neutral safety switch in it....Got that mess under control...got car back up in the air..and put NSS in...LOL...would not know what to do if I did not have those lifts...

fire it up....had 5 and 7 plug wires switched...bang....next plug no 1 was cracked...it was arching....replaced that...got all the little stuff fixed....
Trans works great....
Only one problem...she did not get invited to the dance...was not high enough in points to get on team....but the car is ready.....
 
Man all that scramble for nothing. They should let you run just for all the effort.
 
Working on the brakes today....we have been having problems with the proportion valve...and with 4 wheel disc brake it is not needed....trying to get all the little stuff ....unions...tees...correct length of steel tubing....PIA....but should have it wrapped up in a day or two...

then on to next project on this car....going back to torsion bars...
 
Working on the brakes today....we have been having problems with the proportion valve...and with 4 wheel disc brake it is not needed....trying to get all the little stuff ....unions...tees...correct length of steel tubing....PIA....but should have it wrapped up in a day or two...

then on to next project on this car....going back to torsion bars...
Why do you feel the pro portioning valve is not needed. I always thought you were supposed to reduce front brake pressure because of skinny tires in front and bigger tires in the back.
 
I am putting a proportioning valve in the in line to the rear tires...I am getting rid of the stock metering block that is for the disc/drum set up.....sorry for the confusion....
 
I am putting a proportioning valve in the in line to the rear tires...I am getting rid of the stock metering block that is for the disc/drum set up.....sorry for the confusion....
Ok I get that you are getting rid of the stock valve, but I always heard that for a street car you put the valve on the back brake line and for a drag car you put it on the front because of the fat and skinny tires.
 
Should have it all done in a couple of days...waiting for the those high dollar CE 3 way shocks to show up....and to think I sold a set at MATS last year......
 
Ok I get that you are getting rid of the stock valve, but I always heard that for a street car you put the valve on the back brake line and for a drag car you put it on the front because of the fat and skinny tires.

I just read that on Doctor Diff website....need to take another look at what i got....
 
I am running no prop valve on my car with no problem, 28x4.5 Hoosiers up front. I have factory disks in front and willwood in the rear. I'm also running a Dr. Diff 15/16 bore master cylinder.
I originally had an adjustable valve to the rear and ended up taking it out because I was just running it wide open.
 
I am running no prop valve on my car with no problem, 28x4.5 Hoosiers up front. I have factory disks in front and willwood in the rear. I'm also running a Dr. Diff 15/16 bore master cylinder.
I originally had an adjustable valve to the rear and ended up taking it out because I was just running it wide open.
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Same here ,on a 92 gmc 11 second pick up !
 
Running large sticky tires on the rear helps prevent the rear tires from locking up on initial braking.
If you dont run a prop valve With stock size tires though the rears will skid before the front discs start to work.
 
Running large sticky tires on the rear helps prevent the rear tires from locking up on initial braking.
If you dont run a prop valve With stock size tires though the rears will skid before the front discs start to work.
That's precisely the point. A drag car has a bigger stickier contact patch in the rear, so you can increase the braking force back there.
Or rather, decrease the front pressure. Drag car usually has skinnies up front with a smaller contact patch that would be prone to skidding if to much pressure is applied. Also drag cars usually have improved weight distribution to the rear as well.
At least that's the reasons that I told.
 
I am running no prop valve on my car with no problem, 28x4.5 Hoosiers up front. I have factory disks in front and willwood in the rear. I'm also running a Dr. Diff 15/16 bore master cylinder.
I originally had an adjustable valve to the rear and ended up taking it out because I was just running it wide open.
If you re read what you wrote, you needed the valve in the front.
If you were using the valve wide open, it means you found better braking with it wide open because that is shifting more braking to the rear. If you would have experimented and put the valve in the front, it may stop even better. IMHO.
 
If you re read what you wrote, you needed the valve in the front.
If you were using the valve wide open, it means you found better braking with it wide open because that is shifting more braking to the rear. If you would have experimented and put the valve in the front, it may stop even better. IMHO.

I understand what you are saying. And you are probably correct. I could probably use more rear brake by dialing the front down a bit. Larger pistons in the front should have more force then 8 smaller ones in the rear.

I did notice a small shimmy in the front under hard braking, last time I got to run 1/4 mile.
 
Car is ready to go back on the ground in the morning. Got the Torsion bars back on the front end...it actually goes up and now again...Should get some good weight transfer now.
Yes...the adjustable proportional valve is plumbed into the rear brakes for now......searched the internet and got reasons for front and rear....so it is on the rear ...bled them and had excellent pedal. Car should be out next friday night for a TnT at the STrip...Weather forecast is for low 80s....
Also changed back to the old Turbo Action Converter...
 
Had to bleed brakes again as the pedal is a little soft on the 1st pumped but firms up while pumping ....i put several new brake lines on....and did not see alot of air come out as I use a power bleeder......so it feels firm now....so i will let it set over night before moving the car........

Had it running as i needed to check the tranny fluid....still needed a couple of quarts....just want to make sure there are no leaks....
Cleaned the floor up....cat litter all over ...lol.....had alot of tools on the floor...pickup and put away....
 
The race is in Bakersfield.....last 3 times we have been there the car broke....lol....so we are going to Sacramento....
 
Car found out we are or were going to bakersfield...puddle of tranny fluid under car this morning....coming out of bell housing area.......put in up in the air....used can of brake cleaner and cleaned out bellhousing area....trying to see where it is coming from.....going back this afternoon and looking......not in mood for this ****.....
 
Well...there is a puddle under the car...trying to look into the bellhousing area with the converter there...i can not see any streams coming down the pump....guess it is the seal...
Will start after work tomorrow to get it out.....
 
Glad this is not my 1st rodeo....got motor and trans out....separated them...nothing looks like it was leaking....only thing we can see is there are some splines on the stator that seem to be damaged as I had problems getting the converter on...and it did not want to come off......

I am pretty sure I have another pump in storage....check it out tomorrow.....as I quit early to watch the officials make sure the packers won...
 
Glad this is not my 1st rodeo....got motor and trans out....separated them...nothing looks like it was leaking....only thing we can see is there are some splines on the stator that seem to be damaged as I had problems getting the converter on...and it did not want to come off......

I am pretty sure I have another pump in storage....check it out tomorrow.....as I quit early to watch the officials make sure the packers won...
They did... (Make sure the Packers won..)
 
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