'71 Demon Pro Street/Touring

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Thank you very much fellas. I used Painless for my wiring and Ididit for the keyless start. Between both sets of wiring instructions it wasn't hard to figure out. As you can see in the video I had to push the button on the fob 1st, later I can change the programming so as soon as the fob is in range (aprox 10') the starter button will light up and be ready to fire. Also if you just want accessory power (radio) and not start the car, just hit the button without pressing brake. I was very happy with the outcome.
The only thing I'm choked about is it looks like I tore front seal on trans, got a leak there. Engine is sealed up nicely. I lubed up that front seal very well before sliding converter in since I had the same issue on a build many years ago and still managed to rip it.
Swapping out the prop valve today since on the weekend I couldn't get brakes to happen. Would bleed to all 4 corners but not pressure up. Had this happen before on a jeep, seal gone in valve so front and rear communicating, pushing fluid around in a circle. Master cylinder bench bled good and hopefully not the culprit.
And still need an alignment, but still hoping today I get a little test drive in :)

Very nice indeed. :thumblef:
 
Thanks Clint! I just clicked on the link to your build, not sure how I missed it before but nice work!

Thanks Rod. Your build is leaps and bounds beyond what I've got going. Looks like you've done everything the right way. Sounds and looks amazing!
 
Sure can, as soon as I get it out of the garage I will take some. Cheers

Thanks! I like the pro touring look, but the wheels are the hardest part when lowering the front and the back. I want some CCW Classics, but no wheel is worth that much for the street, so I am looking at all options in the 18-19in range.
 
Fst73_360 said:
Thanks! I like the pro touring look, but the wheels are the hardest part when lowering the front and the back. I want some CCW Classics, but no wheel is worth that much for the street, so I am looking at all options in the 18-19in range.

$$$$ is why I'm sticking with pro street look this year. Custom back spacing on big wheels is expensive and my car had emptied my wallet enough this year.
 
It doesnt have to be an expensive wheel. I just like the big wheel lowered look for the duster style body. It just happens to be that the wheels I like are expensive haha. I have seen many dusters with the bullet type wheel and they look good, but that is the problem, everyone has them. So far I like the CCW Classics, Boze Pro Touring and Budnik but all would cost over 1200 for just wheels. I want a set with each wheel costing at most 300 each and be different. The only thing close to a duster is a nova or chevelle, but then I cant find the wheel name. haha
 
I'm going through the whole wheel nightmare right now. So I can definitely appreciate the situation your in and the waiting.
 
S%$t man that sux. I bet it felt good to drive it after such a long process though! Good luck with the trans, will be watching.
 
gdrill said:
S%$t man that sux. I bet it felt good to drive it after such a long process though! Good luck with the trans, will be watching.

Felt great, hoping next drive is longer. Got motor/trans out again. Hoping I can find a shop who can diagnose and rebuild quickly next week. Running out of days off and summer :(
 
Felt great, hoping next drive is longer. Got motor/trans out again. Hoping I can find a shop who can diagnose and rebuild quickly next week. Running out of days off and summer :(

Did you get it out for a ride this fall?
 
Last time I drove it was Mopar Meet Aug 25th. Still have bugs to work out. Last time I had days off was mid October and I didn't even look at it. Think winter motor gets pulled, fix oil leak/dyno it. Pull rear end apart, need adjustment to backlash. Couple other things to tweek. Also still need a wheel alignment.
Then hopefully next summer I can put on a few miles and a run or two at the track.
 
Car looks sweet man. Even if its pissin fluid all over the place! What's the deal with the leak? Can you see where it's coming from?
 
Oh yea how's that RMS front end feel? I'm getting Antsy to get mine together to feel the difference over the torsion which I'm not going to miss one bit.
 
Car looks sweet man. Even if its pissin fluid all over the place! What's the deal with the leak? Can you see where it's coming from?
Thanks! The trans leak that was mentioned back in august was due mostly to an F'd converter, pressureing up trans and blowing it out of the vent in the bell housing. TCI trans and converter,,,both were junk right out of the box. DON'T buy TCI!!
I have a little oil leak I mentioned in last post, rear of pan. Hoping its just pan. But motor is coming out so it will be easy fix either way

Oh yea how's that RMS front end feel? I'm getting Antsy to get mine together to feel the difference over the torsion which I'm not going to miss one bit.
Really haven't got much to say about it yet, no alignment done and only pizzacutters upfront so far, don't even have sway bar on yet. Next season I will be rolling on 18s with 335/30 in the rear and 255/40 in front. Once those are on it will make a big difference. The coilovers ride nice, firm with a sports car feel.

Car looks sweet and Candy for me !

I hope you dont have your gear toasted !

Thank! Me too, but if I do I'm going to re-gear. 4.30 way to steep, they weren't needed for the power of this stroker, might as well have a gear more cruise friendly since its not a track car. 3.55:1 I think.
 
Beautiful car. I had a TCI converter once, junk. I recently had Ultimate Converter Concepts build me a custom converter calibrated for my car's combination. What a huge difference in torque output it made. Expensive but worth every penny.....
 
Beautiful car. I had a TCI converter once, junk. I recently had Ultimate Converter Concepts build me a custom converter calibrated for my car's combination. What a huge difference in torque output it made. Expensive but worth every penny.....

Thank-you. Theres a couple close places near me that are good with converters, only reason I went with TCI(Total Crap Incorporated) is I was already buying their trans and figured why not. Unfortunately when buying I hadn't researched them enough and didn't realize they had a **** name ($1500 mistake in repairs). If I had already had a rebuildable trans I could have avoided the whole nightmare. Car only came with 4-speed and I always prefer a good built auto for street or track.
 
WOW great build

Thank you sir!

I'm just in the middle of pulling engine trans to cure leaks and hopefully some dyno time in 3 weeks. Going to pull axels and drop diff to check it out and I think a regear from the 4:30 to 3:23 is going to happen since I decided not to run at track and would rather cruise it on hwy occasionally Also ordered 18" wheels from BOZE which will be wrapped in 345/30 outback and 255/40 up front.

Cheers
 
Thank you sir!

I'm just in the middle of pulling engine trans to cure leaks and hopefully some dyno time in 3 weeks. Going to pull axels and drop diff to check it out and I think a regear from the 4:30 to 3:23 is going to happen since I decided not to run at track and would rather cruise it on hwy occasionally Also ordered 18" wheels from BOZE which will be wrapped in 345/30 outback and 255/40 up front.

Cheers

That will radically change your look. Should be AWESOME.
May need to lower some.

I just went through all kinds of gymnatics figuring what to order for my 69 Dart. I wound up settling on 18 x 7 up front with 5.25 backspace. This allows as much lowering as possible with factory suspension. I also put in offset bushings.

On the rear I ordered 18 x 10 with 4" backspace. I love wheels that are deep on the rear.

Got a pic of what you ordered?

I ordered these.
 

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Here are some pics of wheels and rubber. I'm still undecided about whether to have the center of the wheels done in satin(hotrod) black with a polished lip or just leave the whole wheel polished. Boze is sending paint samples and then I can see if their black matches my hood. I'm having all the center caps engraved, was thinking pentastars at first but now leaning towards the fratzog(not to many non-dodge people know what that is, could sell them in the future to some chebbie guy and have a good chuckle while doing so).
The rear wheels are 13"(12" across between the bead). Fronts are going to be 9". Exact backspacing to be determined in a week or two, but best guess for now is 6.5front and 8rear. I love the deep dish rear wheels to but I didn't narrow my rear axle, thinking maybe from time to time I could throw on a set of raylle wheels for a more stocker look.
As for lowering car down some more, not a problem, coilovers all around so ride height can be adjusted some more.

Wheels are BOZE G-Machine
gmachinebg.jpg

Fronts
bfggforcetakdw2ci2l.jpg

Rears
bfggfordragradialci2l.jpg
 
That will radically change your look. Should be AWESOME.
May need to lower some.

I just went through all kinds of gymnatics figuring what to order for my 69 Dart. I wound up settling on 18 x 7 up front with 5.25 backspace. This allows as much lowering as possible with factory suspension. I also put in offset bushings.

On the rear I ordered 18 x 10 with 4" backspace. I love wheels that are deep on the rear.

Got a pic of what you ordered?

I ordered these.

I like those Boyds by the way, will look real good! I was back and forth a thousand times between a more traditional 5 spoke or something like what I ended up picking. Since I have the drilled/slotted rotors and wilwood calipers I figured the thinner multispoke would show those off a bit more.
 
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