Welcome to FABO and congrats on your new ride. Gotta love those Swingers! I got one a few months ago. toolmanmike
71 Dodge Dart Swinger in England
- Thread starter uber cool
- Start date
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uber cool
Well-Known Member
yep new 14" round one on order
What a nice ride you found! Welcome to FABO!
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Not quite correct here.
The 340 had a forged steel crankshaft (as did A318s and some of the LA318 truck motors, but I digress), although late 72s and all 73s had shot peened cast cranks. The 360 crank will not fit into any other block without work as the mains are larger. The cast crank 340s are externally balanced as are the 360s. 318s and early 340s are internally balanced. The aftermarket offers 3.58" cranks with 318/340 journals and internal balance.
Also valves were 2.02/1.60 vs. 1.78/1.50. Head ports are larger on the 340 heads. 340 had a double roller timing chain & a windage tray that was not offered on the 318. Finally, the 318 has light duty rods, whereas the 340 and 360 had HD rods.
FWIW: The 1968 model 340 4-speed cars had a hotter camshaft than the automatic equipped cars had. For the 1969 model year, the '68 automatic cam was used in all 340s. No distinction was made in factory literature of different power output with the hotter cam.
Here's allpar's take on the differences:
"When the 340 came out in late 1967, it was a street fighter from the start. Separating the 340 from the standard-performance 318 were not just 22 cubic inches, but also:
a dual timing chain with a windage tray to improve top end engine RPM by keeping the crank counter weights from 'churning the oil' in the pan.
2.02 inch intake valves and 1.60 inch exhaust valves
a high-rise dual plane intake
an 850 cfm carburetor (from 1971 to 1973)
a forged steel crank (through 1972’s engine #39118000, when a cast iron crank was used)
high-performance heads
a revised oil pump with a 90 degree adaptor
a special carburetor and cam"
All LA V-8s had a 90º adapter when installed in an A-body.
To the OP: Cool find. I admire your sense of adventure driving a LH car in a RH environment, unless you plan on keeping the car on the continent. I recall a couple trying to pass a semi on a two-lane road in the Smoky Mountains while driving a RH Jaguar sedan.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Actually the 360 mains bearings, crank diameter is smaller than a 318/340, and allpar is incorrect stating all small blocks installed in A bodies had a 90° oil filter adaptor. Only the small blocks with high performance exhaust manifolds in A bodies had this adaptor for clearance with the RH exhaust manifold. If allpar was correct id be sitting on a goldmine in cast iron A body filter adaptors, as my local boneyard is littered w A body V8 cars. My 74 parts dart came w a 318 2bbl and no filter adaptor. Not needed. One off a chrysler fifth ave is aluminum, and more readily available. Got mine for $10 off an 89 fury lll
However i was remiss on the forged VS cast crank as i was only talking about the basic dimensional architecture of the engines themselves, and not the metallurgy, so in this regard you are correct about the 340s forged internals.
However when the LA (Light A engine) series small block was designed and produced as a 273 in 1964 all of them came with forged cranks, most with cast rods except for i believe the commando/charger engines. Later on came the 318. I believe these continued on with forged cranks and cast rods through 1973, and in 1974 went to cast cranks and forged rods. Though i dont know why the switch was made. It must be noted a 273 steel crank will fit a 318/340 as the main journals and rod journals are the same. All rods are dimensionally the same on all LA engines, with the 360 having a longer stroke crankshaft.
If your is a 360, it is an externally balanced engine like a chevy 400, and 454. This means there is an external balance weight on your torque converter and a special front damper for the external balance on the 360. Do NOT swap these parts out for 318/340 parts unless you have the crank rebalanced internally. Otherwise the engine will eat itself in short order. As such the torque converter is clocked to the engine flexplate a certain way. If you decide to demate the engine and trans for a rebuild, i recommend making a punchmark on the flexplate and converter at one attach bolt that bolts these 2 together, when it goes back together line these marks back up and bolt it together. All the holes are drilled slightly off so the torque converter lines up with the weight clocked ONLY in the correct position. If you dont do this eith the 2 punchmarks before dissassembly you will chase your tail for hours wondering why half the bolts dont line up no matter what you do.
However i was remiss on the forged VS cast crank as i was only talking about the basic dimensional architecture of the engines themselves, and not the metallurgy, so in this regard you are correct about the 340s forged internals.
However when the LA (Light A engine) series small block was designed and produced as a 273 in 1964 all of them came with forged cranks, most with cast rods except for i believe the commando/charger engines. Later on came the 318. I believe these continued on with forged cranks and cast rods through 1973, and in 1974 went to cast cranks and forged rods. Though i dont know why the switch was made. It must be noted a 273 steel crank will fit a 318/340 as the main journals and rod journals are the same. All rods are dimensionally the same on all LA engines, with the 360 having a longer stroke crankshaft.
If your is a 360, it is an externally balanced engine like a chevy 400, and 454. This means there is an external balance weight on your torque converter and a special front damper for the external balance on the 360. Do NOT swap these parts out for 318/340 parts unless you have the crank rebalanced internally. Otherwise the engine will eat itself in short order. As such the torque converter is clocked to the engine flexplate a certain way. If you decide to demate the engine and trans for a rebuild, i recommend making a punchmark on the flexplate and converter at one attach bolt that bolts these 2 together, when it goes back together line these marks back up and bolt it together. All the holes are drilled slightly off so the torque converter lines up with the weight clocked ONLY in the correct position. If you dont do this eith the 2 punchmarks before dissassembly you will chase your tail for hours wondering why half the bolts dont line up no matter what you do.
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for info on the engine, all info very much appreciated as it's my first Mopar car. I currently have 2 other LHD cars a 69 VW camper imported from washingston 6 years ago and a 59 Apache imported 2 years ago from CA. Only time I find driving an issue is on a narrow country road on a lefthand bend, its hard to see what's coming the other way. Also McDonald's on you own is always amusing.
and the good news is checked the engine number and it's 360 and looks like a very recent rebuild
and the good news is checked the engine number and it's 360 and looks like a very recent rebuild
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Sounds great uber cool,
Looks like you got a good solid car to start with making your job much easier. I dont know if you have heard of a gage company called speedhut, however since it looks like your instrument panel needs a fair bit of work, and unless your planning on putting stock gages back in, you may want to check these folks out. Custom gages made in U.S.A. that you design. You can pick everything from the font, tick style, backround style/color, back lighting color, pointer type, and color, gage lens style, gage ring type etc. You can truly make a one of a kind set of these.
Matt
Looks like you got a good solid car to start with making your job much easier. I dont know if you have heard of a gage company called speedhut, however since it looks like your instrument panel needs a fair bit of work, and unless your planning on putting stock gages back in, you may want to check these folks out. Custom gages made in U.S.A. that you design. You can pick everything from the font, tick style, backround style/color, back lighting color, pointer type, and color, gage lens style, gage ring type etc. You can truly make a one of a kind set of these.
Matt
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Thanks Matt, appreciate the advise. Im in 2 minds as to reinstall the original dash (in the trunk) or have another go at the restyled dash, but better. he aftermarket gauges are all working and look in good condition, in fact the speedo is only show 0.7 mile!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Summit racing and jegs both also sell an aftermarket gage insert or gage bucket for mopar A bodies that fits std sized aftermarket gages. Though i bet with a bit of time, you could probably make one of these yourself.
If your going to reinstall the original cluster, or even stick with aftermarket gages. I recommend doing the ammeter bypass, and get the alternator charging wire out of the firewall bulkhead connector. This setup may have been fine with 25-35 amp alternators, however if you plan on running a bigger alternator for lighting, electric engine fan, bigger stereo etc, you will need to upsize the wire gage (diameter) on the output side of the alternator to the battery, and the bulkhead connectors cannot handle it.
Lots of guys do the bypass and then install a sun brand volt gage model #CP8215 in the stock cluster. You dissassemble the sun volt gage out of its housing the gages internals fit almost perfectly into the stock cluster. Some even fit the ammeter gage face back on so it still appears stock.
If using the stock cluster, chrysler used a vibrating type voltage limiter or IVR to drop 12V to 5V for the oil press, fuel level, and water temp gages. You can remove this and make a nice solid state IVR for a few dollars. The old IVR if it sticks closed, those 3 gages peg full high, if it sticks open, they go full low.
Not sure if you can get one of these over there but an NTE960 semiconductor will take up to 35V input and give you 5V output. You will need i think a 1 microfarad capaciter as a surge damper as well. Very easy to wire. I think i made mine for under $2.
PM me if you want some of the schematics i have and such.
Matt
If your going to reinstall the original cluster, or even stick with aftermarket gages. I recommend doing the ammeter bypass, and get the alternator charging wire out of the firewall bulkhead connector. This setup may have been fine with 25-35 amp alternators, however if you plan on running a bigger alternator for lighting, electric engine fan, bigger stereo etc, you will need to upsize the wire gage (diameter) on the output side of the alternator to the battery, and the bulkhead connectors cannot handle it.
Lots of guys do the bypass and then install a sun brand volt gage model #CP8215 in the stock cluster. You dissassemble the sun volt gage out of its housing the gages internals fit almost perfectly into the stock cluster. Some even fit the ammeter gage face back on so it still appears stock.
If using the stock cluster, chrysler used a vibrating type voltage limiter or IVR to drop 12V to 5V for the oil press, fuel level, and water temp gages. You can remove this and make a nice solid state IVR for a few dollars. The old IVR if it sticks closed, those 3 gages peg full high, if it sticks open, they go full low.
Not sure if you can get one of these over there but an NTE960 semiconductor will take up to 35V input and give you 5V output. You will need i think a 1 microfarad capaciter as a surge damper as well. Very easy to wire. I think i made mine for under $2.
PM me if you want some of the schematics i have and such.
Matt
dodgetexan
Well-Known Member
Nice car, uber. Good luck with it.
uber cool
Well-Known Member
thanks good tip on the alternator bypass. I prefer the radio off and listen to engine note 
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Made a start on Sunday of going through all the parts in the boot. I'm going to refit the original dash but unfortunately I think the cowl is to far gone, being snapped by a previous owner. The instruments look ok and I found all the fixings for the heater controls and glovebox. Couldnt find the glove box hinge, but just found a 2nd hand one on USA ebay for £30. Also not keen on the Magmun 500's so going to refit the Rallye wheels, but again only have 3 of them as the 4th was the wrong PCD. So if you now anyone with a 14 x 5.5 Rallye wheel let me know.
Anybody know what these U shaped brackets are for?
I found one 14" beauty rim on my extensive loft stash:tup: so mounted a tyre on the rim and offered it up.
found all the missing chrome trim apart from around the top of the rear window
these also arrived in the post
Wheel I had a hunch it hadnt done any mileage since have the V8 fitted and and this probably confirms it
new labels on suspension, it really doesn't look as if it has turned a wheel in anger since being transfer to upgraded brakes, suspension and running gear.
Anybody know what these U shaped brackets are for?
I found one 14" beauty rim on my extensive loft stash:tup: so mounted a tyre on the rim and offered it up.
found all the missing chrome trim apart from around the top of the rear window
these also arrived in the post
Wheel I had a hunch it hadnt done any mileage since have the V8 fitted and and this probably confirms it
new labels on suspension, it really doesn't look as if it has turned a wheel in anger since being transfer to upgraded brakes, suspension and running gear.
Nice car. Looks to be in good condition, compared to what we get where I live! I was noticing your gauge cluster. I believe you posses a 1970 dash as 1971 changed. The 70 is a full sweep speedo and the 71 changed to a half moon sweep. I'm not sure if the actual dash frame in the car changed but I believe they are the same therefore the clusters interchange. I'm sure someone who knows will comment. Oh as for the Magnums, I like 'em.........to bad you're so far away!
Edit: I just did some snooping around and it appears the dash frame is different. So you have a 70 setup if I'm correct.
Edit: I just did some snooping around and it appears the dash frame is different. So you have a 70 setup if I'm correct.
uber cool
Well-Known Member
The dash doesnt appear to have been changed ie the vin plate on the dash is not tampered with, wonder if some early 71 darts had 70 dashboards?
uber cool
Well-Known Member
pm'd you
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Amazing what you can find on google earth street view! Show the Dart on previous owners drive in 2012 in Katy Texas.
1st photo it's at the top of the drive covered up, 2nd photo near garage not covered up
1st photo it's at the top of the drive covered up, 2nd photo near garage not covered up
65Vart
Well-Known Member
That's a nice car, great solid start!
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Started on converting lighting from USA spec to UK spec. First up the front end, new RHD crystal headlights with sidelights. So I can use the combined USA parking and indicator in the grill as just the indicator and fit orange bulbs.
Had to modify the headlight bucket to accommodate the headlight side light.
One side done, one side to g. But a bit cold in the garage today 1 deg C, so will do that another day.
Had to modify the headlight bucket to accommodate the headlight side light.
One side done, one side to g. But a bit cold in the garage today 1 deg C, so will do that another day.
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Having a wheel dilemma, the wife thinks ive gone made, tired to explain wheels are like shoes or handbags. make or break a car. Stance and wheels very important.
Anyway I have 14" Rallye steels, 15" Draglite alloys and unknown 17" rims.. Im favouring the 17" rims to get away from the grandpa look.msl:
its on the jack as I need spacers at the front, so wheel arch clearance would be less
It came with the chrome Magmun 500's but i dont like these, remind me of MGB rostlyes :tdown:
and I got the indicators wired up:tup:
Anyway I have 14" Rallye steels, 15" Draglite alloys and unknown 17" rims.. Im favouring the 17" rims to get away from the grandpa look.
msl:
its on the jack as I need spacers at the front, so wheel arch clearance would be less
It came with the chrome Magmun 500's but i dont like these, remind me of MGB rostlyes :tdown:
and I got the indicators wired up:tup:
65Vart
Well-Known Member
My Dart has 14" rallyes. I like them . I will probably end up going to 15" versions but most importantly you need the proper centers. For 70/71 you should have the "sombreros" If you want to get picky the 71 version is dark argent silver.
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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70 and 71 darts had the same dash layout, it changed in 72........
uber cool
Well-Known Member
Look what arrived today, thanks to a very kind forum member off here. Also arrived today with great timing was a glove box hinge I ordered separately off ebay.
Or "Head" as in a fixed head coupe or drop head coupe!
65Vart
Well-Known Member
bought these for my dash, good product
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-MOPAR-7...Woodgrain-Overlay-Vinyl-Sticker-/360642227187
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-MOPAR-7...Woodgrain-Overlay-Vinyl-Sticker-/360642227187
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