I know folks that lost their job, which resulted in loss of home and ultimately family through divorce. I also know folks that lost their jobs and introspectively did some soul searching, chose a different path, and ended up in a much better place. My observation is that a loss of a job results in whatever you make of it. My father was one of my successful examples. Best of luck with your choices.
72 duster resto
- Thread starter 72smallairparticler
- Start date
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72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Thanks all for the supportive comments. Things will turn around, Im blessed to be good at what I do and even in this weird market I believe i'll land somewhere better.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
New job secured. Took a bit in this market but I am blessed. Starting Feb 10th so I have a week to wrench as much as I can on the duster.
Got the headers on and wow I am seriously going to start a separate thread on these Summit small block headers. EASIEST and CHEAPEST headers for a budget build so far. Think they were only $220 when I bought them. Sanded down and painted over them with high-temp bbq black paint. They fit amazing, no banging on them needed.
Got the headers on and wow I am seriously going to start a separate thread on these Summit small block headers. EASIEST and CHEAPEST headers for a budget build so far. Think they were only $220 when I bought them. Sanded down and painted over them with high-temp bbq black paint. They fit amazing, no banging on them needed.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Congrats on the new job! I'm curious if the summit ones are the same as the jegs ones. I bought a set years ago but haven't tried to install them
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Went to attach my speedometer and there was a plastic plug here. Removed it and seems like I am missing the pinion gear and housing?
I have no idea what to order. Any input?
I have no idea what to order. Any input?
And what ever gear your tires and gears call for..
You need this:
MOPAR SPEEDOMETER PINION GEAR HOUSING 727 833 904 DODGE PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER | eBay
You need this:
MOPAR SPEEDOMETER PINION GEAR HOUSING 727 833 904 DODGE PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER | eBay
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Few small things are in. Battery tray and battery, new and old wiring harnesses, belt.
New radiator with electric fan didnt fit. Ran into the pulley, so gotta return it.
New radiator with electric fan didnt fit. Ran into the pulley, so gotta return it.
DusterDilly
Mopar its a way of life
Damn the patina on that is killer
DusterDilly
Mopar its a way of life
Man What a build thread! Look's like a fun driver at some point! Sucks about the job but congrats on the new one! Ill be following on this one!
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Champion radiator is in. Feels like the steps are getting fewer but I'm fatigued and have little time to work on the car lately. Still needs:
After:
- Fill holes in fender well
- Install the carb
- Install linkages/throttle
- Install the column shift stuff
- Re-prime the oil pump
- Install dizzy, coil, and spark plug wires
- Install hoses, Fill radiator
- Install transmission cooling lines
- Do up all the wiring
After:
- Swap valve springs for the ones that match the cam
- Measure driveshaft length needed to the 8.8, order adapter and driveshaft
- Weld up the exhaust
Wonder if those headers would work with a 4-speed?
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
So previously I stated you can't use the straight boots but I made them work. Got the routes along the side of the valve covers and behind the heads for a clean look - still need to start putting together the wiring but it's another 2 hours clocked in getting closer.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Well, I kinda blew it by not dropping in the transmission cooling lines before I put the motor in. I'm now trying to figure that all out, but can't find a single image of how it's ideally routed. Any ideas?
Progress:
Got the speedometer gear housing in, waiting on some new battery cables, temp sending unit and starter relay. Printed out some wiring diagrams to use and will hopefully start wiring the engine compartment this week. We're having bursts of really nice weather that has been motivating me after work, kids, life tasks are done for the day to head to the garage and take little more off my to-do list.
Progress:
Got the speedometer gear housing in, waiting on some new battery cables, temp sending unit and starter relay. Printed out some wiring diagrams to use and will hopefully start wiring the engine compartment this week. We're having bursts of really nice weather that has been motivating me after work, kids, life tasks are done for the day to head to the garage and take little more off my to-do list.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
- Temp sending unit in
- Starter relay wired up
- Breather cap on with new grommet
- Tossed on the carb for fuel line routing measurements
- Plug wires in
- Well the rest is on my list attached here
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
ALRRRRRIGHT.... im mentally stuck.
Im having a problem getting over the fact that the disparity between my new wiring harness that i ordered and my wiring diagram are not sync'd fully.
Specifically Terminal L (Dark Green, Red Tracer) and Terminal T (Dark Green, Red Tracer)
So Terminal L on my new harness is a yellow wire the exact length to the starter relay as the red fusable link wire.
The Diagram shows Terminal L going to the horns??? I swear when I removed the old wiring there was a yellow lead on the starter relay...
But then in the terminal block (S through W) next to it, which is primarily for headlamps, there's a Terminal T which is also (Dark Green, Red Tracer) that shows that it's supposed to kick out and go to the diagonal prong on the starter relay?? But on my factory harness, that wire stays hidden all the way from the firewall to the front of the car and then I lose track of it wrapped up in the mess up there.
Am I being crazy? Is this the way things are supposed to route?
Im having a problem getting over the fact that the disparity between my new wiring harness that i ordered and my wiring diagram are not sync'd fully.
Specifically Terminal L (Dark Green, Red Tracer) and Terminal T (Dark Green, Red Tracer)
So Terminal L on my new harness is a yellow wire the exact length to the starter relay as the red fusable link wire.
The Diagram shows Terminal L going to the horns??? I swear when I removed the old wiring there was a yellow lead on the starter relay...
But then in the terminal block (S through W) next to it, which is primarily for headlamps, there's a Terminal T which is also (Dark Green, Red Tracer) that shows that it's supposed to kick out and go to the diagonal prong on the starter relay?? But on my factory harness, that wire stays hidden all the way from the firewall to the front of the car and then I lose track of it wrapped up in the mess up there.
Am I being crazy? Is this the way things are supposed to route?
- The terminal block (S through W) with mostly headlight wiring (which is NEAR the horn routing) is actually holding one critical green*red wire to the starter relay???
- AND the mainly critical charging/starting terminal block (J through N) holding mostly all the ignition circuits, charging etc, AND also this one random horn wire????
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Just going to follow the diagram as it shows, wasting too much time trying to figure it out.
Got some new terminals for the bulkhead to swap out key wires that im routing so I dont have to hack the existing harness up. (Removing the ECU & ballast resistor for HEI is quite a lot of wiring) So i'll bypass those routes with 2 new leads direct from the bulkhead.
Also ordered the 8.8 yoke for the driveshaft and the 727 slip yoke. Once I get those installed i can measure for the driveshaft order.
To start the break-in, I'll wrap up the wiring this week, install the carb linkages and the column shift levers, and finally the fittings that were missing from my transmission cooling lines.
Im super motivated, the weather has been too nice not to be listening to this thing purr down the road.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
I wish I could offer better advice but wiring isn't my strong suit. Hopefully you will get it going soon. Will be cool to see this one back on the road.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
ChatGPT cleared it up - definitely odd use of wire color strategy.
Separately, since im using a 2 wire HEI distributor and hi-output coil I'm basically swapping some terminal leads in a way that I can retain the original wiring if I have to revert back (probably wont). So net net, I basically remove the wire lead to terminal N (blue), insert a new terminal N wire lead and direct it straight to the + coil and + red wire lead on the HEI distributor. Terminal Q (brown wire) also flows through the ballast jumper wiring and connects to the + coil as an optional route to boost voltage at start (since the system requires 12 volts at start. Everything else stays the same, but i'll have to hide that wire bulk somehow. I could also remove the new engine harness I purchased, sell it off and just build out the rest of the 8 terminals with my own wiring, but I already put in the time to route and cover them with wire loom. I dont want to undo all that for now. Aiming just to get it running.
So now, I'm just focusing on a few missing items. I just ordered a Strange slip yoke for the 727 and bolted up the Adapter yoke on the 8.8. Once I have the slip yoke installed I can measure for driveshaft order.
On the missing pieces for the engine - working on carb linkage setup, waiting on NPT adapter for fuel to route to my carb from the pump. Also need to figure out the issue with thread mismatch on my trans cooler to radiator connections. I got "factory" pieces and inline tubing "factory" lines - they dont connect. So retracing steps to find out what exact threads and connectors are needed to get that right.
Linkage for column shifter to transmission isn't in yet. I have been dragging my feet to do that job for a day when i have patience to spend on it.
Need to address dipstick tube issue (factory one is very short, aftermarket stick is too long) - either remove factory tube with a lot of struggle or find a new factory stick to use.
Need to install transmission dip stick
Then, run checklist, fill radiator, charge the battery, pray a prayer and fire it uuuuuupp
Separately, since im using a 2 wire HEI distributor and hi-output coil I'm basically swapping some terminal leads in a way that I can retain the original wiring if I have to revert back (probably wont). So net net, I basically remove the wire lead to terminal N (blue), insert a new terminal N wire lead and direct it straight to the + coil and + red wire lead on the HEI distributor. Terminal Q (brown wire) also flows through the ballast jumper wiring and connects to the + coil as an optional route to boost voltage at start (since the system requires 12 volts at start. Everything else stays the same, but i'll have to hide that wire bulk somehow. I could also remove the new engine harness I purchased, sell it off and just build out the rest of the 8 terminals with my own wiring, but I already put in the time to route and cover them with wire loom. I dont want to undo all that for now. Aiming just to get it running.
So now, I'm just focusing on a few missing items. I just ordered a Strange slip yoke for the 727 and bolted up the Adapter yoke on the 8.8. Once I have the slip yoke installed I can measure for driveshaft order.
On the missing pieces for the engine - working on carb linkage setup, waiting on NPT adapter for fuel to route to my carb from the pump. Also need to figure out the issue with thread mismatch on my trans cooler to radiator connections. I got "factory" pieces and inline tubing "factory" lines - they dont connect. So retracing steps to find out what exact threads and connectors are needed to get that right.
Linkage for column shifter to transmission isn't in yet. I have been dragging my feet to do that job for a day when i have patience to spend on it.
Need to address dipstick tube issue (factory one is very short, aftermarket stick is too long) - either remove factory tube with a lot of struggle or find a new factory stick to use.
Need to install transmission dip stick
Then, run checklist, fill radiator, charge the battery, pray a prayer and fire it uuuuuupp
Excited for you as it's getting close! I was sad to see the slant go, but this is gonna be pretty badass!
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Zero updates but I just rolled the car out. We moved and as you can imagine that came with 1 million projects that expedited over the car. We bought a place in the woods so it’s a bit of a different lifestyle out here. So far I’ve killed 15 mice two rattle, snakes, two scorpions and several cases of poison oak on my kids. But looking at the duster today was exciting so I pushed it out in the sun only to find out my two year-old scribbled on the side lol. Making sure mice are not entering into any part of the car since it’s been sitting in the garage for so long.
Anyway, hope y’all are doing well
Anyway, hope y’all are doing well
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Looks great! I am also very rural and was really worried about mice with mine. I had to store it and a few other cars over the winter and when I did I soaked several cotton balls with Pepperment essential oil and threw them in various places around the car. Come spring there were zero signs of mice. So I'll definitely be doing it again.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Question
Considering I had a 904/slant six combination before with my column shifter. Are there any modifications i have to make in order to install the linkages now that I have a 727 and 360 small block with headers?
Considering I had a 904/slant six combination before with my column shifter. Are there any modifications i have to make in order to install the linkages now that I have a 727 and 360 small block with headers?
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