Yes it was
727 Disassembly and Advice
- Thread starter Austin Spencer
- Start date
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Austin Spencer
Well-Known Member
What I'll most likely be doing is putting up a wanted ad for the 71 and later front drum, and while I wait for the parts I need to order to come in (Gaskets, clutches, planetary gear), and deal with removing the transmission and working on the gear vendors unit I've got, I'll see if I can find the correct drum.
So far it seems like what I'll need is the gasket set, both bands, clutches, front planetary gear, and preferably a 71 and up front drum. I've yet to dig into the valve body to look for any modifications so that'll be the next thing to tackle while I wait.
So far it seems like what I'll need is the gasket set, both bands, clutches, front planetary gear, and preferably a 71 and up front drum. I've yet to dig into the valve body to look for any modifications so that'll be the next thing to tackle while I wait.
VOETOM
Well-Known Member
Ebay had couple of retainers for a decent price.
Also the splines for the planetaries are smaller from 62-75. 76 up has bigger splines. Check the granny numbers to see what u have. Kim
Austin Spencer
Well-Known Member
Mopar 727 TorqueFlite Trans "4 Pinion - Forward Planetary " Great 215 | eBay
Old School builder that gives you your money's worth!
www.ebay.com
This was the planetary set I was looking at. It's got the same 28 tooth spline count on the inside as the one that I took off. I know that my unit is a '78. Is that the spline that you are referring to?
They both have the same spline count. 76 and newer has a bigger hole in the planetaries and the shaft has bigger splines. So u can’t slide smaller planets on to the bigger shaft splines. But u can’t slide smaller slide bigger planets on to the smaller splines. That is a no no. Find out from the seller what year his planets are.
Austin Spencer
Well-Known Member
Just sent them a message. Hopefully they can just get me a a measurement of the hole diameter, and I'll check what my planetary gear is here and it'll match up.
I have a place a few miles away that dismantles engines and transmissions and sells hard parts very reasonably. I had to use them to get a few hard parts for the last 46RE I did, many of which parts in the front portion are basically the same as the 727.
Look at KB cores in Kankakee IL, online. Don't know what shipping would cost. I think the guys name in that department ight be Corey, actually... I have his card at home.
I'm about to tear into an a500 next week I might have to go see him about once it's apart.
I had to get an input shaft and hi/reverse clutch housing (rear clutch) and a good new/used front pump from KB for that 46RE.
Also there's a member here that helped me with a couple of pieces on that 46, I believe he's out of WA... "Fishy Pete" maybe? Seems like a real good guy, and that he had a bunch of tranny parts hanging around... Might try that.
Look at KB cores in Kankakee IL, online. Don't know what shipping would cost. I think the guys name in that department ight be Corey, actually... I have his card at home.
I'm about to tear into an a500 next week I might have to go see him about once it's apart.
I had to get an input shaft and hi/reverse clutch housing (rear clutch) and a good new/used front pump from KB for that 46RE.
Also there's a member here that helped me with a couple of pieces on that 46, I believe he's out of WA... "Fishy Pete" maybe? Seems like a real good guy, and that he had a bunch of tranny parts hanging around... Might try that.
VOETOM
Well-Known Member
TF Patty!
j par
Well-Known Member
LOL... PUT IT BACK TOGETHER THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT APART... WITH NEW CLUTCHES, STEELS, SEALS, GASKETS, AND BROKEN PARTS... LOL...
Honestly, this seems like some kind of experimental race transmission that went wrong. And now you're trying to fix this. When really a factory stock, it's a simple transmission with a rebuild. Should we write where you're at and let someone else do all this finding out what's wrong with it, trying to fix it? All rechanged, all the clutches and Drums and weird stuff...
I hope that voice command went okay...
Honestly, this seems like some kind of experimental race transmission that went wrong. And now you're trying to fix this. When really a factory stock, it's a simple transmission with a rebuild. Should we write where you're at and let someone else do all this finding out what's wrong with it, trying to fix it? All rechanged, all the clutches and Drums and weird stuff...
I hope that voice command went okay...
Austin Spencer
Well-Known Member
I'm not going to knowingly rebuild a transmission with broken parts. I'd like longevity and to not have to rebuild it in 10,000 miles. The planetary gear assembly is cracked to the point I could break it with my pinky. If the guy who wrote one of the definitive books on these transmissions is recommending I replace a part, I'm going to at least consider it. A correct drum is $60, hardly something that'll break the bank.
just because it came apart that way doesn't mean it should go back together that way.
repeating poor, or questionable work is bad practice.
these cars are old and anything could've been been monkey'd about with them by any hackasaurous wrex from planet hackulon in their or our lifetime; so just blowing something apart and going: huh, welp, i guess that's how it is and knocking it back together might not always be the best play if the dude that had his grubby mitts in there before you was a sloppy joe or finger tight jimmy.
trust, but verify. always.
and also, if the dude that wrote the damn book on 'em is saying stuff is wack and to change it out, then it would probably be wise to take his advice.
j par
Well-Known Member
1 way to check if it is the wrong bushing is to knock it out then put the fibre spacer on the pump support then the front drum, slide a vernier calliper or thin rod down to the fibre washer to see how wide a bush will fit ,if you fit a wide bush to wear a thin bush should be it will hit the pump support the thin is .56 the wide .86
Austin Spencer
Well-Known Member
That's a smart idea, I'll check it out when I get a chance.
I was wondering a few things while I wait for the gaskets and other parts. I need to get the Front Servo outer spring, which it seems like wittrans has. My Front Servo had the thin rod, inner spring, and the part that contacts the arm, but it didn't have a piston inside.
I've got the 66-69 setup, but without the piston at the far right. I assume I'll need to order that as well, and it says they have the piston, but also the "piston assembly" which I'd assume just means the clips and rings that go with it? Just wondering if there was a reason that piston was missing.
Separate from that, I was curious about the stock setup for the accumulator piston. Is there a spring between the valve body and the piston, as well as inside the bore? Or is it just a spring between the VB and piston? I've read that the spring and piston help cushion the 1-2 shift, and it's either put the spring(s) in, or make a blocker for the inside, and sometimes I've read to remove the smaller ring, depending on shift kits and stuff. Otherwise some threads on this forum have said that the piston will move around, which can damage it or the bore. Wittrans has a spring which is 1.525" tall, and no others, but in their catalog there is one that is 1.060" tall. Which would be recommended for my type of setup, Blocker rod, shorter spring, taller spring? It doesn't seem too hard of a part to mess with, so I figure I could try out each, and I'm curious to how it would feel.
In the meantime, I'm also intending to take the pan to my work so I can weld on a drain plug. Is there a general spot that is best for it? I figured the rear driver side, since it's fully out of the way of the filter and valve body.
I have the large shaft in a couple of my cars haven't noticed any difference between it & the thin shaft make sure the bore of the casing is not scored i had to give a quick hone with a brake hone smooth shifts,I don't use a blocker or spring just let it float its something that can be changed easily later if you decide
I would not trust advice from him on anything.
Austin Spencer
Well-Known Member
Took a look at my VB today, it seems there are some things different. I took a look at this thread here and it seems similar to their setup.
Need info on a modified 727 valve body
I have that small section drilled out as well as the check ball missing, however I do not have a small hole drilled through the web, nor the restrictor in the case.
I also do not see a spring and check ball in the round bore at the top left. Is this a modification or missing part?
Is this fine to leave like this? I read that the removed section and check ball leads to a much firmer 1-2 shift. I've also read about increasing line pressure, is this something I should look into doing?
Do I need to disassemble this further to check if any other parts are modified?
Need info on a modified 727 valve body
I have that small section drilled out as well as the check ball missing, however I do not have a small hole drilled through the web, nor the restrictor in the case.
I also do not see a spring and check ball in the round bore at the top left. Is this a modification or missing part?
Is this fine to leave like this? I read that the removed section and check ball leads to a much firmer 1-2 shift. I've also read about increasing line pressure, is this something I should look into doing?
Do I need to disassemble this further to check if any other parts are modified?
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