727 Rebuild Advice

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I rememberd something about this tranny now that Ive been thinking about it. Someone has been in it before and this is what the guy told me was done. What do yall think? Should I go though it or run it?
Well thanks for the replies. It's nice to talk to the person that did the work. Nice to get the right answers.




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From: To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, November 21, 2010 9:47:18 PM
Subject: RE: Tranny

Gotcha. Yeah, a shift kit would be a good idea for your car. No, never ran it.

Not sure what it came out of.


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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 19:42:06 -0800
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Tranny
To: Yeah I am actually watching the game. HUGE Eagles Fan its even Tattoo'd down my arm.

But no I was saying I would put a shift kit in. Probaby an trans go TF-2 But for what I want it for it should do the job. Its going behind my 440 im building for my Dart. I bought it because I thought it would put me money ahead over rebuilding one. So you never ran this tranny? Do you happen to know what it was out of?




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From: To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, November 21, 2010 9:34:51 PM
Subject: RE: Tranny

No shift kit, just a straight-up stock refresher.

I was planning to put it in a truck, so I didn't go crazy with the transmission. I had actually planned to replace it with a manual at some point.

I see your e-mail address... are you watching the Eagles-Giants game? Vick is the man.

-Jared


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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 19:19:03 -0800
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Tranny
To:
Cool so a shift kit and fluid. Thanks for the reply. I'm guessing you built it to run behind that stroker you were building?



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From: To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, November 21, 2010 9:08:30 PM
Subject: RE: Tranny

I did. The guy I got it from said it might need new clutch packs and bands, so I put them in. New filter, pan gasket, pump gasket and front and rear seals, too. I don't think it really needed a rebuilt, but I refreshed it anyway.

I didn't do much with the valve body. Took it out, sprayed it down, and put it back in. I also cleaned the housing.

Fyi, it has the heavy-duty version, 4-gear planetary.

-Jared


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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:30:18 -0800
From: [email protected]
Subject: Tranny
To:
Hello this may sound odd. But I seen your stroker ad a few weeks ago on CL and happen to have just met the guy who bought it from you. A transmission came with what he bought from you. He said it someone had went through it . I just bought the tranny and was curious as to what all was done to it and who built it? Thanks
 
72ScampTramp said:
I read somewhere impact sockets work is that true?
Click to expand...

Sometimes sockets work (depends on the individual socket) but most of the time they don't because the edge is rolled so they'll drive into the bushing, rather than drive it in. I've had better luck finding pieces of pipe the right size and when cut true they have a nice square edge for driving.

BTW: we've been calling it "driving" bushings in but my actual preference is to press bushings in where possible. Less chance of damaging them from my experience.
 
72ScampTramp said:
I rememberd something about this tranny now that Ive been thinking about it. Someone has been in it before and this is what the guy told me was done. What do yall think? Should I go though it or run it?
Click to expand...

Well the guy sounds honest as he didn't try to sell you on it being a top fuel dragster transmission but I'm not so sure I'd chance it just because it's so much work to r&r if it doesn't work right. The fact that all he did was spray the valve body down tells me he's not a professional. If a trans. is burned up enough that it needs clutch plates you don't do that because I guarantee every valve in that valve body will have some goo in it and may possibly stick. What I'd do is drop the pan and valve body and do some pressure checks to see if things are sealed up good then go ahead and at least pull the clutch packs and inspect them and take the pump apart and inspect it. If all looks good your only out a pump and pan gasket. If it sounds like I'm a skeptic your right. That's because I've seen so much screwed up work in my life that I don't trust many peoples work.
 
Since you like these tighter which I can agree with. What snap ring should I change? I watched a good video and can buy a thicker snap ring. which one do you change?
 
:burnout:Stock bands are fine,the front clutch drum is the snap ring you can replace with a flat instead of a waved.if you replace with a flat snap ring it will have a firm-harsh engagement into reverse.If it was my first time building a transmission i would build the unit with no shift kit to start off and install after you have a good working transmission.See a number of people install a shift kit into a fresh transmission then have problems,is it the shift kit or a internal transmission issue with a clutch drum etc.you can always install a shift kit later.Good luck with your build.:burnout:
 
Standard bands are fine. Just get good ones, not cheap imported crap. And make sure and get a rigid front band. I've never heard of Alto Green clutches, just the Red Eagles and Borg Blue plates. Either them of Borg Blue plates are fine. As for what snap ring to change that's impossible for me to say because every trans. is different. When you get the clutch carriers rebuilt and check the clutch plate clearance you determine which selective snap ring to use to get the desired clearance. When I used to rebuild them a lot I kept several different thicknesses on hand. In your case what I'd do is take each clutch pack apart and wipe the trans. fluid off the clutch plates and steels and measure the the clutch plates and write it down then re-install them in the clutch carrier and check the clearance. Lets say the front clutch discs' ave. thickness is .087" which is .008 less than new discs and there's 4 discs, that means .032" is worn away. You then measure .100" clearance when assembled and subtract .032 (the amount worn away) and you come up with .068" clearance your great with that snap ring but if the clearance measures .130 you'll need a selective snap ring approx. .030~.035" thicker than the stock one that's in it. Same goes for the rear clutch pack except the clutch plates in them are .068 thick in stock form. You use the same formula above to determine what thickness snap ring you need.

As for the comment about replacing the wavey snap ring, you can find them in either the rear drum (most common) or both the front and rear drums. I leave them in the rear drum because it's not a shifting clutch so it doesn't hurt anything there and replacing it will only make the trans. engage in gear harder. Now if you have a loose converter it will absorb a lot of the shock of when you drop it in gear so you can replace the wavey ring in the rear drum if you need to too obtain the desired clearance. If you find one in the front drum replace it with a flat ring. Also on the shift kit I see no reason to not install one first. The Trans-go kit is a fantastic kit that not only improves the shift but makes the trans. last longer.
 
And so the delimma. I already sprang for a new kit and band. I realize I cant do anything without the sprag. Im tempted really tempted. Ive found the bolt in sprag for as little as $80 from summit thats a TCI brand.
 
Ok so I got the tranny apart. Here are some photos. I have confirmed the steels and clutches in here are new check out the lettering still on the steels. Can anyone tell me what kind of clutches these are? Also this groove is it suppose to be here? TO me it looks like a groove that might carry fluid to the parts?
 

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Bold in sprag is going in some other goodies as well anyone know any good directions to putting the springs and rollers in the sprag my video doesn't cover that
 
[ame="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&client=ubuntu&channel=fs&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=_xHXTpOVFYz9sQLmgLXSDQ&ved=0CD4QBSgA&q=727+sprag&spell=1&biw=1600&bih=729"]727 sprag - Google Search[/ame]
 
Ok internal parts are clean. I used a few OZ of degreaser and warm water and blew dry with compressed air. I also used some brake cleaner on more stubborn parts. Cleaned up well and are resting on a nice towel. I left the heat on in the garage so as to not freeze any mositure on them. Tomorrow is Friday. I will start inspection of clean parts. Complete kit arrived the other day so during inspection I will be matching new seals to the clean parts. The local auto parts store only had engine assembly lube. I wasnt fond of either as one was graphite based and I wasnt sure how that would act on clutches and bands. The other seemed to me to be really thin. I will be using what the man in the video is using Vasiline/petrolum jelly. Working 3rd shift I have to do this stuff in short burst. But will wait till my day off to do finally assembly.
 
On the note of a proper build, could a fixed yoke be considered for high performance use?
 
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