73+ Caliper install

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Muswagon

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I am embarrassed to ask. I have searched both here and youtube.

I cannot get my head around how the calipers attach to the brackets.

Sorry for the silly question!

Did the swap on my 71 Duster with new LBJ UCA's, 73 Spindles/brackets and a new set of calipers from RockAuto. They are for sure the correct ones, it just does not make sense coming from a slide pin world of Chebbie.
 
First have you reversed the spindles which is an option some of us take, second make sure that when they are installed, the bleeders are on the "up" side and you may have to swap them side for side.

They simply sit down in between the "uprights" of the mountings, and then the clips bolt onto the spindle ears which hold them in

PLEASE PLEASE go to MyMopar and download yourself a copy of the FREE 73 service manual.

THAT MANUAL GOT THERE because of some of us HERE

It shows how to assemble them and it also details that some pad must be "massaged" to fit

caliper.jpg


caliper2.jpg


caliper3.jpg
 
I will download that! Thanks. I have not even installed the spindles and UCAs lower ball joints yet, I have those set aside on each side ready to go, with spindles having the bracket facing forward, and calipers having the bleeder up. The caliper sitting down in/on the bracket just does not make any sense compared to any system, so i am sure that manual will clear it up. Thank you
 
Many of us opted to swap spindles side for side which puts the calipers on the rear of the spindle. If you have thoughts of an anti-sway bar this might be a good idea, as some adaptations/ swaps or aftermarket bars don't play well with front mount brakes

But this results in brake hoses which don't fit "factory." Many of us used Volare hoses, but someone on here came up with Camaro hoses fit better.

These are Volare/ Aspen hoses which are a bit long

Front disc conversion soft lines

And a thread about hoses


Brake hoses?

rear mounted caliper

seven-jpg.jpg
 
Many of us opted to swap spindles side for side which puts the calipers on the rear of the spindle. If you have thoughts of an anti-sway bar this might be a good idea, as some adaptations/ swaps or aftermarket bars don't play well with front mount brakes

But this results in brake hoses which don't fit "factory." Many of us used Volare hoses, but someone on here came up with Camaro hoses fit better.

These are Volare/ Aspen hoses which are a bit long

Front disc conversion soft lines

And a thread about hoses


Brake hoses?

rear mounted caliper

View attachment 1715775635
Have to do anything special when swapping the spindle to the other sideb?
 
Well if you already bolted the lower ball joint on you will have to remove them and switch them.
???Confusing LOL. You don't switch the ball joints, you switch the spindles. Just make sure that you get the correct caliper so that the bleeder is UP
 
Just follow what the factory did and you will not have any confusion as to why some people just like to be different. Caliper location has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the braking system. Although the front location may get a little more cool air to the calipers/pads.
Disc-O-Tech
 
Just follow what the factory did and you will not have any confusion as to why some people just like to be different. Caliper location has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the braking system. Although the front location may get a little more cool air to the calipers/pads.
Disc-O-Tech
Well I guess you never install the calipers front mounted on a pre 72 A body with a sway bar or you would know they interfere with sway bar when the wheel is turned.
 
Well I guess you never install the calipers front mounted on a pre 72 A body with a sway bar or you would know they interfere with sway bar when the wheel is turned.

I think it was someone else that asked the question on this thread about changing the 73+ setup to rear mount by swapping. Now I am concerned lol... I have a sway bar and I am just bolting everything up, this will be an issue I assume with the 73 front setup? I don't have the calipers on yet to see where it hits

Does it not cause problems geometry wise to swap? I had read other posts about steering ackerman changing when swapping sides?
 
I have them rear mounted on my 69 Dart. They were front mounted 16 years ago. When you turn the steering wheel the calipers will hit the sway bar and sway bar link. Simple as that.
 
I get that and I see why visualizing where the sway bar and link is, and where the future caliper will be. Not trying to complicate that part.

Is there not a geometry issue? Or not big enough to worry about?
 
That has been a rumor for years. I have had no issues. Countless others have done this swap with no issues.
 
I am embarrassed to ask. I have searched both here and youtube.
I cannot get my head around how the calipers attach to the brackets.
Sorry for the silly question!
If you look at a lathe, the tool carriage and tail stock are machined to sit and travel along a pair of machined rails called ways.
Harrison 600 21" Manual Lathe - 21" Swing, 60" Bed, Multiple Chuck Options, 3" TS | Used CNC Engine Lathe - Revelation Machinery
Chryslers calipers and caliper mounts are machined much the same. The drawing in post #2 shows "ways". The mo you know. :)
 
Just follow what the factory did and you will not have any confusion as to why some people just like to be different. Caliper location has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the braking system. Although the front location may get a little more cool air to the calipers/pads.
Disc-O-Tech
Nobody said it affected braking, NObody. it has to do with anti-sway bar interference, especially if you have musical parts on the cars as some of us do, or later, wish to upgrade to a stiffer, aftermarket bar.
 
So 73+ cars don't need to swap spindle sides?
73 and later have the stabilizer bar routed theough the middle of the K member. No caliper conflict there. Pre 73 have a stabilizer bar that routes around the front of the K member (low hanging triangular forward mounts too). 73 and later spindles and calipers at forward position with that pre 73 design doesn't work. Calipers collide with the stabilizer bar. The common solution for many years was switch the late model spindles left to right so calipers move rearward. Bleeders needed to stay at the top and longer fluid lines were required. In recent times a few owners, with forward thinking minds, have found that the calipers could stay in the forward position if the bar was loaded below the pre 73 end link tabs with the later model end link kits which are much shorter than the pre 73 end link. Only issue is the end link kit is just a small bolt though some bushings. It's pretty easily bent if off roading or in a collision. But... like I stated above, the early bar had lower hanging triangular forward mounts too. We've seen a lot of those with broken bolt ears. I think the concrete bumpers in parking lots prompted the change/re-engineering of stabilizer bar routing and location of forward mounts in these Chryslers.
Bottom line, 73 calipers can be at the OEM front position with the right parts. If there is any advantage to keeping the calipers in the forward position, its the fluid lines. The next owner can buy/order correct fluid lines for 73 and later disc brakes and they fit/work. We have to try to keep low hanging parts away from those concrete curb bumpers regardless.
 
73 and later have the stabilizer bar routed theough the middle of the K member. No caliper conflict there. Pre 73 have a stabilizer bar that routes around the front of the K member (low hanging triangular forward mounts too). 73 and later spindles and calipers at forward position with that pre 73 design doesn't work. Calipers collide with the stabilizer bar. The common solution for many years was switch the late model spindles left to right so calipers move rearward. Bleeders needed to stay at the top and longer fluid lines were required. In recent times a few owners, with forward thinking minds, have found that the calipers could stay in the forward position if the bar was loaded below the pre 73 end link tabs with the later model end link kits which are much shorter than the pre 73 end link. Only issue is the end link kit is just a small bolt though some bushings. It's pretty easily bent if off roading or in a collision. But... like I stated above, the early bar had lower hanging triangular forward mounts too. We've seen a lot of those with broken bolt ears. I think the concrete bumpers in parking lots prompted the change/re-engineering of stabilizer bar routing and location of forward mounts in these Chryslers.
Bottom line, 73 calipers can be at the OEM front position with the right parts. If there is any advantage to keeping the calipers in the forward position, its the fluid lines. The next owner can buy/order correct fluid lines for 73 and later disc brakes and they fit/work. We have to try to keep low hanging parts away from those concrete curb bumpers regardless.
Well thats good to know mine is alln73+ so I shouldn't have to worry. Also when I was young and dumb I took off the oem sway bar and threw it in the trash . So now I gotta find a replacement for that also
 
Well thats good to know mine is alln73+ so I shouldn't have to worry. Also when I was young and dumb I took off the oem sway bar and threw it in the trash . So now I gotta find a replacement for that also
So your K member is spool mount on the engine mounts?
 
Back in the garage tonight. I want to thank everyone for saving me a ton of work, I had one already 'hung' the wrong way but that is as far as I went. I will mount for rear caliper with bleeder on top (I can feel your itch to reply unless I clarify lol).

Awesome forum. When I was a Mustang noob those guys were absolute tools to new guys. This is a classy forum and I appreciate how everyone is eager to pass on what they and prevent learned mistakes
 
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