73 Duster build named Fred

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pittsburghracer said:
Converters are so much different than they were 30 years ago. I know it’s a street car but from day one install a big cooler up from and reroute the lines to avoid your radiator cooler. Like you said hold off for now and plan out your engine combo and try to decide the percentage of track time it’s going to see. 3800 is small in my eyes and after seeing almost .5 in my sons duster going from a 4600 to a 5600 really opened my eyes. Both were good fresh converters.
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Geez, 5600!

This car will not be a dedicated track car but honestly I doubt it will see any street use really. It will be built for the track but I want to retain the ability to drive it on the street on occasion, say to a cruise or car show. I definitely appreciate the advice and replies....keep them coming!

Thanks,
Bill
 
-Boosted- said:
I thought the same as well but decided that I would rather build a 727 and not worry about what I do with the stroker later.

As for the 360 itself, like you said there's not much I will need off of it besides the block but there's that plus all the other things people don't think about until they go to assembly. Timing cover, oil pan, accessory brackets, pulleys and more. Hell, even having all of the bolts might come in handy.

With all that being said, I think the $300 was well spent. In fact the seller even dropped it off to my engine builder (20 miles away) for me so I didn't even get my hands dirty. lol

Bill
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Don’t underestimate the strength of a stock 360 crank. In a 3200 pound duster a stock crank 360 can run faster than 10.50’s in the right hands.
 
-Boosted- said:
I have an opportunity to pick up a complete 360 (casted in 79) and 727 transmission for $300. Plan is to do a 408 stroker and performance build on the trans. Think this would be a good start for a street/strip 73 duster?

2nd question.... Who's stroker kit should I go with and why?

View attachment 1716057100
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My 360 build is remaining stock 3.580", rather than a 4" arm. I am also running a 727 like you have, gearing is 4.10.

I have the following in my engine build, and have been gathering bits for years:
I currently have 3 different manifolds that I want to try out at the track. RPM Airgap, Offy single plane dual quad, and Eddy dual plane dual quad. Next purchase in the intake department is the Weiand 1995 tunnel ram. Planned carbs are a pair of AVS2 500 cfm or a single 750-850 AVS2.
There's lots of other little bits here and there I can't remember right now.

Since I've never done it, I want to try out a crank trigger and coil near plug setup. Yes it's going to cost more money, but I want to LEARN about it. I learn by doing, there is no substitute for experience.

What you want out of your engine is going to determine how much you pay for internals.
Here's a starting point.

1934709476.01.S001.LXXXXXXX.jpg


51RDj8BFwFL._SX388_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg


1613252803.01.S001.LXXXXXXX.jpg




this is just an example, google, duckduckgo, qwant, etc...

K1 Homepage K1 Technologies

k1technologies.com k1technologies.com

Home

SCAT Crankshafts, based in Redondo Beach, California, offers high performance crankshafts, connecting rods, and rotating assemblies.
www.scatcrankshafts.com www.scatcrankshafts.com
 
Last edited:
Ottmundr said:


My 360 build is remaining stock 3.580", rather than a 4" arm. I am also running a 727 like you have, gearing is 4.10.

I have the following in my engine build, and have been gathering bits for years:
I currently have 3 different manifolds that I want to try out at the track. RPM Airgap, Offy single plane dual quad, and Eddy dual plane dual quad. Next purchase in the intake department is the Weiand 1995 tunnel ram. Planned carbs are a pair of AVS2 500 cfm or a single 750-850 AVS2.
There's lots of other little bits here and there I can't remember right now.

Since I've never done it, I want to try out a crank trigger and coil near plug setup. Yes it's going to cost more money, but I want to LEARN about it. I learn by doing, there is no substitute for experience.

What you want out of your engine is going to determine how much you pay for internals.
Here's a starting point.

Amazon product ASIN 1934709476Amazon product ASIN 1613250126How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines: Covers All Chrysler, Dodge & Plymouth LA Series Engines-1964 to Present-273-318-340-360 C.I.D.: Shepard, Larry: 9780895864796: Amazon.com: Books

this is just an example, google, duckduckgo, qwant, etc...

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Right on! Thanks for the great info.

Bill
 
-Boosted- said:
Geez, 5600!

This car will not be a dedicated track car but honestly I doubt it will see any street use really. It will be built for the track but I want to retain the ability to drive it on the street on occasion, say to a cruise or car show. I definitely appreciate the advice and replies....keep them coming!

Thanks,
Bill
Click to expand...
I drove my 70 Dart small block with an Ultimate Convertor Concept 5200 stall on the street. Felt and drove like a stock convertor. Pop it in gear at idle and the car starts moving. The new technology is great
 
I'm kinda shocked to see coan makes a convertor for $550... 11" but i never thought they would have something that low..
 
Ottmundr said:


My 360 build is remaining stock 3.580", rather than a 4" arm. I am also running a 727 like you have, gearing is 4.10.

I have the following in my engine build, and have been gathering bits for years:
I currently have 3 different manifolds that I want to try out at the track. RPM Airgap, Offy single plane dual quad, and Eddy dual plane dual quad. Next purchase in the intake department is the Weiand 1995 tunnel ram. Planned carbs are a pair of AVS2 500 cfm or a single 750-850 AVS2.
There's lots of other little bits here and there I can't remember right now.

Since I've never done it, I want to try out a crank trigger and coil near plug setup. Yes it's going to cost more money, but I want to LEARN about it. I learn by doing, there is no substitute for experience.

What you want out of your engine is going to determine how much you pay for internals.
Here's a starting point.

View attachment 1716058011

View attachment 1716058012

View attachment 1716058013



this is just an example, google, duckduckgo, qwant, etc...

[/URL]
[/URL]
Click to expand...

@Ottmundr do you already have the ProMaxx heads? If so, can you post a picture of the combustion chamber and tell us what size chamber you ordered? I assume they get a 63 cc chamber by milling the same casting from the 65 cc chamber, but I am curious to see either chamber since the pictures online are all over the place.
 
Bobzilla said:
@Ottmundr do you already have the ProMaxx heads? If so, can you post a picture of the combustion chamber and tell us what size chamber you ordered? I assume they get a 63 cc chamber by milling the same casting from the 65 cc chamber, but I am curious to see either chamber since the pictures online are all over the place.
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Yeah give me a few minutes for the pics. I ordered the bare heads, and I did get the 63 cc heads. They only had them on JEGS back in August. I really hated ordering from JEGS, but I had no choice if I wanted the smaller chamber size.
 
Bobzilla said:
@Ottmundr do you already have the ProMaxx heads? If so, can you post a picture of the combustion chamber and tell us what size chamber you ordered? I assume they get a 63 cc chamber by milling the same casting from the 65 cc chamber, but I am curious to see either chamber since the pictures online are all over the place.
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A few months back I posted up pics and included the valve springs and retainers.

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Just curious.. what made you go promaxx over TFS? other than the 4 month TF wait..
 
Icetech said:
Just curious.. what made you go promaxx over TFS? other than the 4 month TF wait..
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I already have a set of ductile iron rocker arms and didn't want to fork over another $$$ for the ones required for the TF heads. Also, I don't want to run roller tip rocker arms. I am doing all I can to minimize the number of moving parts as well as reduce reciprocating mass. From all I've seen, the TF heads flow better, pretty close though. I'm quite happy with losing 50 lbs and gaining about one point of compression with aluminum.
 
Ottmundr said:
I already have a set of ductile iron rocker arms and didn't want to fork over another $$$ for the ones required for the TF heads. Also, I don't want to run roller tip rocker arms. I am doing all I can to minimize the number of moving parts as well as reduce reciprocating mass. From all I've seen, the TF heads flow better, pretty close though. I'm quite happy with losing 50 lbs and gaining about one point of compression with aluminum.
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Yeah.. i ended up with mancini's harland sharp rockers, i believe the cast iron work on the TF heads don't they? I thought stock rockers can be used..
 
Icetech said:
Yeah.. i ended up with mancini's harland sharp rockers, i believe the cast iron work on the TF heads don't they? I thought stock rockers can be used..
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I also used the Mancini rockers on Trick Flow heads, no complaints here

IMG_0753.jpg


IMG_0784.jpg
 
dartindanno said:
I also used the Mancini rockers on Trick Flow heads, no complaints here

View attachment 1716058084

View attachment 1716058085
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Nice, i really wish i had gotten the oil through pushrod ones though.. i'm using a roller LA block so if i switch to a different block i will need to shell out for new lifters (non OEM) or new rockers if i go magnum which is likely... bad choices eating at me all the time

P.S. i went with 1.5's which i kinda regret but will just get the lift cam i want when i finally get to that point
 
BTW dart, did you have to shim them or they just fit?
 
-Boosted- said:
Already figured it out. I am building a real basic purpose built Street/Strip car with a fresh 408 stroker, built 727 with 2600-2800 rpm stall converter, Speedway Motors fabricated 9" rear, Caltracs suspension, minimal interior or exterior work will be done to the car (basically new carpets and seat covers, wet sand exterior and clear coat). Will be on factory 14x6 rallys in front, 15x8 rallys in rear with 275/60R15 MT ET Street R's.

As for how much I want to spend.... like anyone else, as little as possible but I have budget to do all the work listed above. Hopefully I can do everything once and not waste time and money redoing something I should have done differently the first time.... lol

Please fire away with advice, suggestions, tips or anything else. I am all ears and anxious to get started on this thing. :)
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I know some others wil disagree, but if your budget is tight as you said I would build a stock stroke 360. A quick look through some builds on this site show you can get a lot of bang for the buck. Spend the money on other stuff other than the stroker kit.
 
mgoblue9798 said:
I know some others wil disagree, but if your budget is tight as you said I would build a stock stroke 360. A quick look through some builds on this site show you can get a lot of bang for the buck. Spend the money on other stuff other than the stroker kit.
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I love stock stroke builds in street strip combos with the parts available now. A nice piston, Scat rods or equivalent, app .620 lift roller cam, 4.10 gears, Ported Victor340, 850 Holley, 4400-4800 stall (at least) voom voom. Especially when I saw a nine inch rearend and caltracks.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I love stock stroke builds in street strip combos with the parts available now. A nice piston, Scat rods or equivalent, app .620 lift roller cam, 4.10 gears, Ported Victor340, 850 Holley, 4400-4800 stall (at least) voom voom. Especially when I saw a nine inch rearend and caltracks.
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Guess I have some reading to do.

Engine is already at the builder getting prepped and I am going to build the Stroker however, I just made a deal on a recently built aluminum head 360LA runner, complete from carb to oil pan that I may play with. I like the sound of a high lift roller cammed, big intake, big carb monster.... lol
 
-Boosted- said:
Guess I have some reading to do.

Engine is already at the builder getting prepped and I am going to build the Stroker however, I just made a deal on a recently built aluminum head 360LA runner, complete from carb to oil pan that I may play with. I like the sound of a high lift roller cammed, big intake, big carb monster.... lol
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I can give you the specs on that .620 lift Reed cam if you are interested. It ran 6.54 four different times at two different tracks. That’s 10.20’s-10.30’s.
 
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