74 Duster 4 banger Street/Strip Build

-

ReevesRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
63
Reaction score
44
Location
Kentucky
Hi guys!

I’m new to the A body scene. This is only my 4th post on this forum. I have another thread comparing K frames and a Welcome Wagon thread introducing myself.
I’m a diehard Mopar fan and have mostly had 2.2L and 2.5L turbo Mopars from the 80’s that I like to modify and race. Some of you may have seen my OMNI at some of the major Mopar events that I like to attend. If you have spare time, feel free to check out my build thread on the OMNI:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?44482-Reeves-OMNI-GLH-R-Update!&highlight=
(Keep in mind, I’ve owned the OMNI since around 1999 and this thread didn’t start until 2009, so a lot of the car was already complete)

Last winter I purchased a 1974 Plymouth Duster Slant 6car. My plans are to make it another street/strip rod in my collection. It’s not in the best of shape, but it does run great, and currently runs a 19.99 ¼ in stock trim and a 19.68 with exhaust and air breather off.

My plans are to make myself another car that can contend in Hot Rod Drag Week and other events. Eventually I’m pulling out the Slant 6 to put in a 2.5L Chrysler Turbo motor.

So far I have collected most of what I need to put on a 70-72 style grill/hood/bumper. In the next few weeks I’m going to be purchasing a fiberglass 70-72 style hood and front bumper (suggestions? Thinking AAR). I will be fabricating my own lightweight front and rear bumper mounts.

I’m currently looking for a tube k frame with manual rack and pinion steering in another thread. The front end of this thing is wore out and I don't want to focus money on rebulding the stock stuff, but rather update to lightweight and more simplistic components.

After the front end and front discs are complete, I’m going to be repairing floors/frame as needed from the dreaded rust. I’ll most likely start on cutting out/smoothing the trunk floor, moving the battery to the rear, contemplating the new fuel system, etc.

I purchased a 9” Ford rearend that came with half a truck, so I pretty much have no money in it after I scrap the truck. I’ll most likely use that since it’s cheap and super easy to get parts for.

A friend gave me a working 904 with small block bolt pattern that I’ll be rebuilding myself (time pending) or getting a pro to do it for me.

Another friend is working on the adapter plate from 2.2L/2.5L to 904. He currently makes a 2.0L/2.4L but not a 2.2L/2.5L

Should be a fun project. Here are some pictures just the way I purchased it. Only mod I have made is removing the hub caps (are they worth anything?), adding the Plymouth front license plate, and fixing some ground wires.
 

Attachments

  • 20140413_173638.jpg
    46.3 KB · Views: 1,994
  • 20140406_152534.jpg
    106.6 KB · Views: 1,875
  • 20140406_152516.jpg
    87.4 KB · Views: 1,811
  • 20140413_195025.jpg
    26.6 KB · Views: 1,835
  • 20140413_193214.jpg
    30.5 KB · Views: 1,834
  • 20140413_192124.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 1,847
  • 20140413_190948.jpg
    23.8 KB · Views: 1,810
  • 20140413_173715.jpg
    31.4 KB · Views: 1,843
  • 20140413_173701.jpg
    33.1 KB · Views: 1,861
I always wanted to put a turbo 2.2/2.5 in a 65 Barracuda, and even graft on a hood bump.

Kind of surprised you're not going with a Dakota bell housing and a 5 speed.
 
That is gonna be bad ***! You ever consider the 2.0/2.4 head conversion?
 
That is gonna be bad ***! You ever consider the 2.0/2.4 head conversion?
or simpler yet, the whole 2.4.... Its my understandingthat the 2.0/2.4 trans bolt pattern is the same as the old 2.2 but maybe the starter is on the other side.
 
I always wanted to put a turbo 2.2/2.5 in a 65 Barracuda, and even graft on a hood bump.

Man, that would be cool too!

Kind of surprised you're not going with a Dakota bell housing and a 5 speed.

I’m a gear jammer all the way. Dang near everything I own is a manual. On this build though, I had a dream in mind:

I’d like to drive to the track with some hefty meats out back, unload my junk, and make some passes on a given Friday for test-n-tune.
I’m tired of changing clutches
Autos are more consistant
Autos generally cut better 60’s
Autos don’t do as much damage to other driveline components
A properly built 904 should be pretty much bullet proof (right?) to be able to handle 600whp / 600ft/lb?

A good friend of mine does have a brand spanking new, never used, 4 speed with overdrive directly from Chrysler. Hmmm….. LOL


That is gonna be bad ***! You ever consider the 2.0/2.4 head conversion?

Oh yeah, I’ve considered it. About the only things keeping me from doing that:

I have a TON of 8 valve inventory
I think it’ll look a lot cooler when popping the hood and seeing a slightly slant 4 vs. a slant 6. The 16 valve just looks too new school and exoctic.

I do agree though that the 16 valve would be the best bang for the buck…but I can make pretty good power with the ole 8 valver.

or simpler yet, the whole 2.4.... Its my understandingthat the 2.0/2.4 trans bolt pattern is the same as the old 2.2 but maybe the starter is on the other side.

You are partially correct. All of the holes are the same except for one on the left. The starter is on the right of a 2.2/2.5 and it’s on the left of a 2.0/2.4.

I also have a good stock pile of 2.2/2.5 common blocks and 2.5 cranks.

Attached is a picture of the beginning of the front end transformation:

View attachment 20141006_215018.jpg
 
So I have mocked up the front end conversion (from 74 to 72). Worked out pretty well. Got the steel hood for free, but it's in pretty rough shape, but it'll do for now until I get a fiberglass hood. The right side fender lines up perfectly with with 72 headlight bezel but the left side fender/bezel lines up horribly. Not sure why. This may talk me into fiberglass fenders (any experience out there?).

Shown is an AAR fiberglass front bumper. Nice stuff. I removed 78 lbs just in the stock bumper and brackets!

I have the 74 front end for sale or trade if anyone is interested (hood, grille, bumper, bumper brackets, bumper extension filler piece, etc). Don't want to ship, but do want it off my shop floor. I removed it all in just 3 big pieces. It's all in really good shape other than the bumper.

View attachment 20141129_185717.jpg

View attachment 20141129_190658.jpg

View attachment 20141129_190949.jpg

View attachment 20141130_185120.jpg

View attachment 20141130_194335.jpg

View attachment 20141130_194520.jpg

View attachment 20141130_205625.jpg

View attachment 20141130_205645.jpg

View attachment 20141130_205657.jpg
 
How are you going to use a rear drive trans since they only came in front drive?
 
Makes me wish I would have kept my shark tooth. I will post a pic of it on request.... Back to topic thread.
I like the idea of the 4banger! Different, but that is what makes mankind great.
 
Very cool. If you don't put a mailbox flag on that intake plenum, you're no fun. lol
 
How are you going to use a rear drive trans since they only came in front drive?

Well they did come in Dakota's, but that trans is weak. A few people have used just the Dakota bellhousing and a Toyota Supra trans bolted to it. There were a few A904's made for the 2.2 but never in production. I just literally had my hands on one a few weeks ago. I didn't get it though :eek:ops:

I'm going to be using an adapter plate with a small block A904. It's been done on the 2.4L but not the 2.2L to my knowledge.

Very cool. If you don't put a mailbox flag on that intake plenum, you're no fun. lol

LOL...that would be funny! That's not the actual motor I'm using. That is one I built for a friend and he never has picked it up. Been here for 2 years. Figured I'd use it for reference.
 
Curious, what kind of HP you will get from the turbo engine. There was a guy (some years back) that ran a 2.2 in a Plymouth Arrow (Mopar import). It was supposed to be wicked fast, but I never saw it run (Petersburg VA).
 
My OMNI dyno'd last year at 577whp/551trq. I think I can make more with a better header and intake setup. The OMNI is VERY cramped for room under the hood. Video here:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot3Z96JkM-4"]Omni GLH Dyno 577hp 552 ft-lb - YouTube[/ame]
That one is kind of poor quality. I'm driving, and my buddy took it with his iPhone.
Here's another one with the dyno owner filming with his phone:
http://youtu.be/HQNEPtHxA4w?list=LLNuM9ngFrsSS31cA7ol57ng

Hoping for a reliable 600/600.
 
If I ever win the lottery, I want a motor like that in a woodgrain, AWD Caravan to go hunt Mustangs. lol

Jay
 
After taking off the 74 front end and mocking up the 72, I decided to start working on the rust repair and mods. The rust in the right front frame rail is pretty bad. The cross member has had some repair already.

My friend Tim has a rotiesssrie. It is a really nice unit, but it has the standard small caster wheels for moving around on smooth concrete. We have decided to modify it so that we can move it around on gravel, on/off trailers, etc. We are going to be adding some spindles and trailer hubs so we can mount car wheel/tires on it.

Also, My son loves to help!

How about 7 lbs of rust falling to the floor after sweeping up the shop! Kentucky Lightweight!

View attachment 20141130_205632_resized.jpg

View attachment 20141220_182232_resized.jpg

View attachment 20141220_184706_resized.jpg

View attachment 20141220_225729_resized.jpg

View attachment 20141221_015717_resized.jpg
 
All bolt on sheetmteal is off. Seats are out. Found little pieces of the build sheet. Hope for momore progress today.
 
Apparently the next step in evolution are A-bodies! hahaha. Youre gonna make me look bad james. My poor dart has snow on it for the first time in years.
 
cool. I have a built 2.2 that I thought would be fun to put in a t-bucket. Almost bought a 2.2/2.5 to 904 adapter that was advertised on turbo dodge a few years back, but passed. Don't remember who was making them but it was the last one they had and they weren't making anymore.
 
Glenn Smith is probably who you are thinking of. They were pricey back then. I was gonna put a 2.2 in a altered frame.
 
James, I thought I was the only person on earth with the crazy idea of putting a 2.2/2.5 into an A body.

Have you considered using the adapter plate as a mid plate and eliminating the engine motor mounts altogether? In some respects it makes engine/transmission service much easier.

Bill Reilly may have what you are looking for if you are doing away with the torsion bars. If you are keeping the torsion bars, QA1 has tubular K frames.

John
 
I'm ditching the torsion bars. Yes I have considered mid-plate and may go that route when I mock it all up. Right now I'm in need of front frame rails :(
 
-
Back
Top