74 power wagon dream truck...

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You have it seam sealed, now what color are you painting it?
I'm going to paint the floor with a satin white industrial rustoleum mixed with acetone with my cheap Harbor Freight sprayer and my cheap Harbor Freight compressor. Also going to do the bottom that way. Of course the top side will be covered in a generic dynomat and the bottom will be easily touched up...
Want to take it in for a light body work and the actual paint of the exterior and upper interior I think it's going to be a Spinnaker White from a 74.. kind of an off-white...
 
How does that seam sealer work? Do you like how it applies? Looks like maybe you smoothed it out?
 
Looks good. The stance is hideous.
It had more of a hot rod stance before we did six or $7,000 worth the ABC fully adjustable tubular suspension front and back.. Viking coilover double adjustable shocks all the way around with front and rear sway bar in that front sway bars got to be damn near 2 in thick... It drives like it's on rails but again it's not my thing either... I help my customers do what they want not what I want...
There was still a lot of chrome missing in that picture. Should have big 8-ft chunks of chrome underneath the doors and of course all the beauty rings and center caps in the wheels.. also he just ordered some Ray pop grill inserts that are Chrome..
 
How does that seam sealer work? Do you like how it applies? Looks like maybe you smoothed it out?
It was awesome actually I did just lay it out and it's pretty damn tacky. I had rubber gloves on and just smoothed it and worked it with my finger just after I laid it out. I laid it out a section at a time and it was pretty quick to set up as well. You don't have more than 4 or 5 minutes to play with it... But again that's why I did it a section at a time. I'm well impressed with it so far..
 
It was awesome actually I did just lay it out and it's pretty damn tacky. I had rubber gloves on and just smoothed it and worked it with my finger just after I laid it out. I laid it out a section at a time and it was pretty quick to set up as well. You don't have more than 4 or 5 minutes to play with it... But again that's why I did it a section at a time. I'm well impressed with it so far..

I have been looking for something to redo mine with. Where I put it on the drip rails it has cracked already. It's weird. Everywhere I painted over it, it's fine. So I need to get it out of the drip rails and use somethin else. I'll probably put a thick coat of primer over it this time.
 
I have been looking for something to redo mine with. Where I put it on the drip rails it has cracked already. It's weird. Everywhere I painted over it, it's fine. So I need to get it out of the drip rails and use somethin else. I'll probably put a thick coat of primer over it this time.

Now see you have something there because I'm not sure about this in the drip rails. It still feels a little too gooey I guess is the only way I can put it for drip rails.. let me go out and touch it right now as now it's been at least 24 hours and that's what it said it took to cure on the bottle..
 
@RustyRatRod I went out and felt it up LOL.. still very impressed with the product. It seemed firm yet flexible, I rubbed my finger on it and it kind of rubbed the shiny off of it and was a little dull... But I couldn't pick it up with my fingernail...
 
I'm going to paint the floor with a satin white industrial rustoleum mixed with acetone with my cheap Harbor Freight sprayer and my cheap Harbor Freight compressor. Also going to do the bottom that way. Of course the top side will be covered in a generic dynomat and the bottom will be easily touched up...
Want to take it in for a light body work and the actual paint of the exterior and upper interior I think it's going to be a Spinnaker White from a 74.. kind of an off-white...
That sounds like a plan, no need to do expensive paint on the floor and underside of the cab.
Buy good paint for the exterior, I made the mistake once by painting my 71 D-100 with cheap paint, I had to constantly wax it to keep it shining.
Before you shoot the exterior I would upgrade to a better compressor, something around 3 hp 20 gal tank is enough to spray with.
Make sure it is a belt driven one, the one I am using I bought at tractor supply ~ $350, plumbed and extra 30 gallon tank with it so plenty of reserve to paint with.
Just make sure you plumb in a good water catch.
 
That sounds like a plan, no need to do expensive paint on the floor and underside of the cab.
Buy good paint for the exterior, I made the mistake once by painting my 71 D-100 with cheap paint, I had to constantly wax it to keep it shining.
Before you shoot the exterior I would upgrade to a better compressor, something around 3 hp 20 gal tank is enough to spray with.
Make sure it is a belt driven one, the one I am using I bought at tractor supply ~ $350, plumbed and extra 30 gallon tank with it so plenty of reserve to paint with.
Just make sure you plumb in a good water catch.
The plan has always been to take it somewhere for the exterior and the upper interior of the cab to be body worked and painted..
Of course for a one or two time deal I can always rent a very large gas powered compressor for the day. Also was watching an episode of graveyard cars last night where they talked about an inflatable paint booth. It blew my mind LOL.. the possibilities... I looked them up and they're about $1,000 which is about how much I have saved so far for a paint job and body work...
 
Okay I'm almost finished playing with my black caulk... LOL..
I got the bottom all caulked and inside the cowl.. I just have to close those up..
I pulled the doors out and blew the inside out and vacuum them the best I could from the sandblasting. I had previously put a little bit of two-part primer on the outside that was sandblasted but of course one crap ton of sand gets on the inside. Anyways got those cleaned out best I could then took my dishwashing sponge wand and wipe that rust encapsular primer all inside there.. kind of trying to stop any rust from inside working its way out...
Now just the final paint shot of the Rust-Oleum satin White on the floors and on the bottom. It's probably going to be next week before I can get to it because I want an entire day to hit it and let it dry outside some before I push it back into the garage and stink the house up..
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Looking good bud!

Cley
Thank you!!..
Gettin close.. I went to a local car paint supply store to get a extra tube of that seem sealer and asked if they recommend any local painters.. they gave me a number of a one-man-band operation... I talked to him and the price (without seeing it) was to good to be true.. and I got the bad paint purgatory vibe... I've got plenty of time, I'll keep looking..
 
So do you still like that seam sealer? It's comin along good!
 
Before you write off that painter because of a low price, go meet him and ask to see some of his work. You may have been handed a gift from God.
 
The paint job is going to cost you for how much work they have to do.
If its nice and straight, where the painter only has to wash it down and tape it off, that is easy.
If its full of dents and rust, that is alot of work.
Painting the truck is easy, prep is what is hard and costs the dollars.
 
The paint job is going to cost you for how much work they have to do.
If its nice and straight, where the painter only has to wash it down and tape it off, that is easy.
If its full of dents and rust, that is alot of work.
Painting the truck is easy, prep is what is hard and costs the dollars.
It's got a little tick here and a little tick there but no major major dents or straightening to do.. a little skim coat here a little skim coat there filling in a couple mirror holes on the doors.. a little blending on the old rocker to new rocker panel.. the bottoms of the doors on the inside need just a little tick of attention but nothing serious..
Definitely not tape it off and paint it but definitely not a nightmare of work either..
Actually when it is painted there shouldn't be anything to tape off.. it's just the cab and doors....
 
I may have a little touch up once it's off The jig but I pretty much have the bottom complete.. I want to call it a dog house like a van but it's more of a cat house LOL.. I got that painted as well and it took the whole pint of rust-oleum to do the cat house and the bottom of the truck cab... I only used about 15.- 20% maybe at the most of acetone to mix it.. it laid pretty thick and came out of the gun kind of splattery thick... All in all it dried pretty fast and for the bottom of the truck turned out very well. Now in a few days I should be able to do that lower interior and it will be ready to be sent off for bodywork and paint... My compressor worked just fine...
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I may have a little touch up once it's off The jig but I pretty much have the bottom complete.. I want to call it a dog house like a van but it's more of a cat house LOL.. I got that painted as well and it took the whole pint of rust-oleum to do the cat house and the bottom of the truck cab... I only used about 15.- 20% maybe at the most of acetone to mix it.. it laid pretty thick and came out of the gun kind of splattery thick... All in all it dried pretty fast and for the bottom of the truck turned out very well. Now in a few days I should be able to do that lower interior and it will be ready to be sent off for bodywork and paint... My compressor worked just fine...
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The tip is too small on that gun to shoot heavy rustoleum, buy the green gun at harbor freight, it has a larger 1.8 tip, and works alot better for primer also.
 
Looks Great, but I have to agree with sireland67. I use a cheap husky gun with a 1.8 tip for all my epoxy primer and sealer. They are heavy like the rustoleum and a larger tip should help with the thickness of the paint. The other option might be to thin it out a little more, but I would prefer the larger nozzle. I am using a 1.4 tip for my base and clear. Using the larger tip I found the heavier paint lays down nice and smooth too. Can't wait to see more progress.
 
The tip is too small on that gun to shoot heavy rustoleum, buy the green gun at harbor freight, it has a larger 1.8 tip, and works alot better for primer also.

Looks Great, but I have to agree with sireland67. I use a cheap husky gun with a 1.8 tip for all my epoxy primer and sealer. They are heavy like the rustoleum and a larger tip should help with the thickness of the paint. The other option might be to thin it out a little more, but I would prefer the larger nozzle. I am using a 1.4 tip for my base and clear. Using the larger tip I found the heavier paint lays down nice and smooth too. Can't wait to see more progress.
Yes I know I've seen on you boob where people were painting the outside of their cars and using almost like a 50/50 mix..
I was trying to kind of lay it thick on purpose because it's on the bottom of the truck and I just wanted to paint to be thick. LOL it did come out of there like I was spackling a wall lol... For the interior I could probably lay it a little thinner and give it more coats now that I'm a little more confident... And again everything I'm going to lay on the interior is going to get covered with some kind of generic dynomat..
 
Not bad not bad at all! What's next?
I'm hoping to have Monday and Tuesday off this next week. I was hoping Monday I would be able to paint the lower interior and Tuesday load the cab doors and door hinges onto my truck and trailer and take them around to different paint shops getting estimates of the body work and paint left on that part. And continue saving for the paint job... :thumbsup:..
 
I'm hoping to have Monday and Tuesday off this next week. I was hoping Monday I would be able to paint the lower interior and Tuesday load the cab doors and door hinges onto my truck and trailer and take them around to different paint shops getting estimates of the body work and paint left on that part. And continue saving for the paint job... :thumbsup:..
prepare to spend about 10 grand or more. Material will be the major investment.
 
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