8 1/4 will it hold up?

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tyler_s18

tyler_s18

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i know this is on here somewhere but i didnt find it. in my scamp i am puttin a 360 horse 360 and a 4 speed in it. it has the stock open rear end. its a 8 1/4 and if i keep it i will put a sure grip in it. will it be ok like that? or do i need to spend the extra money on a 8 3/4? i will just get bfgoodrich t/a's and mainly street use so they wont be crazy sticky. i want to get cal tracs and mini tub it to so it could get good traction down the road
 
i would love to but no money lol. i think the summit 8 1/4 sure grips run around $400 and the 8 3/4 case and all is $1500 and up lol. but i want to get what i need
 
In 1990, My son and I put a 450 horse 440 and a 4 speed in his 1972 Charger SE, and we put an auburn gear sure gripe with 3:55:1 gears in the 8 1/4 that was in the car. That was over half a million miles ago. It's all tired now but all that 8 1/4 has needed in all this time is 1 pinon seal. He beat the hell out of that car for the first 8 years. I think in a A body street car a 8 3/4 would be a waste of money. I'm also just wrapping up restoring my one owner 73 Charger SE. I built a 318, 397 stroker for it 2500 stall, 904 and I kept my 8 1/4.:cheers:
 
you should sell me that 8 1/4. i'll give ya a couple hundred bucks. that could go toward your 8 3/4. just an idea.
 
that could work. if i can get the money for the 8 3/4 i will sell it. thats y i am gonna not burn it all up lol. i bet the engine on the open diff will hurt it lol
 
The 8.25"s can work okay with an automatic, but the pounding that a 4-speed dishes out, with a decent clutch and some sticky tires is a little beyond the torque-holding capabilites of an 8.25, I think.

I see A-Bodies at the drags pulling wheelies with 8.25" rears, but they are always automatics, which deliver the torque a lot more gently than a bangin' clutch.

A Body 8.75" are getting pretty expensive, and hard to find.

The better choice, I think, is to simply locate a B-Body 8.75" housing, move the spring seats inboard half an inch on each side, and adjust the extra width (which isn't much) with back-spacing changes on the wheels.

That way, you already have the large bolt pattern, and bigger drum brakes.

The B-Body complete rears should be a LOT cheaper and easier to find in junkyards, than the A-Body units.

Good luck; you're building a FUN CAR!!!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

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The 8 1/4 will break.If you get it to hook up it will not take long.If it never hooks up it will last awhile.I have tore up 8 1/4's with slant 6's but I run most of my cars hard. Jim
 
wow thanks. that chart is helpfull. i have access to a few housings only. still will but axels and chunk. and i will pbly just get it shortned cuz i think they are outta c bodies maby b's i dont know, and havent seen people puttin them under an a body lol
 
My car has the wider 8 3/4 with superstock springs

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If I remember right it is out of a b-body. All I did was move the spring seats in. The wheels are 15 inch american racing wheels out of catalog,no special back-spacing.
 
sweet. i have stock style dodge wheels that probably have more back spacing. its a nice lookin duster to
 
Thanks, the only issue I had was finding the same style wheel with both bolt patterns due to having spb in front and lbp in rear
 
I had the original 8 1/4 s.g with 4.10 in my Dart Sport 4 speed.Stroked the 340 to 372(452hp 440ftlbs.)Snapped an axel.and was lucky to not cave in my 1/4 panel.Now have 8 3/4 in both my cars,Dart Sport 4 speed has 4.10,s and my 66 Dart has 8 3/4 s.g with 4.57.My advise is if your gonna run the 8 1/4 behind 360hp with the 4 speed use C-clip eliminators,that way if you do snap an axel..your wheel will stay on the rear and not fly of like mine did.Some guys are LUCKY and have got lots of track time out of there,s.Only a matter of time.For sale 8 1/4 s.g with new 4.10 richmond gears(200 miles)$200 for the center.Pics.

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