8 3/4 What will it take ?

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Shutters

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I am putting a 71 duster together its caged, fiberglass front clip and bumpers, gutted inside one seat and a dash. Building a 505 stroker big block Edelbrock heads 13.8 to 1 should dyno 650hp. Backed by a built 727 with a 4000 stall foot brake no trans brake. No NOS. mini tubed, moved leaf springs and Cal Tracks. I have heard very mixed answers on if the 8 3/4 with a spool and Moser axle will take it. I have no problems with the one in my 67 Dart but that is a 435hp small block car. I have been told the ring gear will not take it? Don't really want to do a Dana 60 but will if I need to.
 
I would go with the Dana.I have broken two different 8 3/4 sure grips pumpkins with a 425 HP motor.But they were used 8 3/4 pumpkins and I run the dog snot out of my 383.
 
Keep in mid that the max wedges and early 426 hemi's used the 8 3/4 and survived back in the day
 
Welcome to the site..

Do a "search"..

There's a gazillion answers to that question,, it's asked about every 2 weeks...
 
Many high HP cars running braced 8 3/4,4 link,latter bar setups with no issues.I went with a Dana60 after having my own issues with a 8 3/4...now have piece of mind after 2 seasons...no issues.JMO
 
Keep in mid that the max wedges and early 426 hemi's used the 8 3/4 and survived back in the day

But they didn't have the tires, suspension and track prep back then that allows cars to hook as well as they do today!

The ring gear is the weak point. I would suggest a Dana 60 as well.
 
Keep in mid that the max wedges and early 426 hemi's used the 8 3/4 and survived back in the day
dual points were the rave at one time...
But they didn't have the tires, suspension and track prep back then that allows cars to hook as well as they do today!

The ring gear is the weak point. I would suggest a Dana 60 as well.

Yep...."back in the day" pretty much the only way to get a car to hook was to run wide slicks....now-a-days there is several small tire class cars that hook hard....
 
Early Hemi,s weren,t running 650hp,also the Hemi 4 speed cars came with a Dana60.


Hemi SS cars with auto came with 8 3/4 and did 10.30 quarter miles.

All four speed hemi cars got Dana standard.
 
Hemi SS cars with auto came with 8 3/4 and did 10.30 quarter miles.

And I saw one at Milan a couple of years ago that broke the pinion on his first or second run.

My buddy down the street has a 69 Dart pumping out about 600HP with a modified, shortened and back braced 8 3/4, 4 link that holds up just fine FWIW.
 
Hemi SS cars with auto came with 8 3/4 and did 10.30 quarter miles.

All four speed hemi cars got Dana standard.

and that was long before the traction juices of today were around....one has to wonder how many passes the rear end lasted before grenading....
 
Top Fuel cars in the early 70's ran down in the 5's with OPEN 8.75's. The 9 Inch didn't really take over there until around 75
 
The Dana wasn't an option until 66' if memory is correct.
 
To save yourself a bunch of headaches, run a Dana 60. Today's tires produce much more traction. Back in the day I saw a number of 8 3/4's come apart when pushed over 600hp.. The 8 3/4 diff is strong but has its limits. JMO
 
a friend had a big block duster that only got 2 months of racing on a ring and pinion he went through 2 to 3 a season car ran 890 with automatic at quaker city dragway save the headache put the dana in and you can forget about it I put the dana in all my cars. tony
 
No way would I use a 8-3/4 at that level especially since your using a 727. Remember that if you break the driveline you'll need to totally disassemble the 727 and inspect and possibly replace the sprague.

For those that keep insisting that the Dana wasn't used or needed when the first Hemi's ran I'd like to reiterate what Myron said about the traction level back then vs. now. Back then car's did not hook up anywhere close to as good as they do now and that makes a huge difference. You can have 2000 hp but if your running F78-14 inch tires you probably wouldn't break a 8-1/4 rearend cause all you'll do is spin the tires.
 
you can make an 8 3/4 live, we've done it with 600 horse. but if you have the coin, get the dana 60 cheaper in the long run
 
And regardless, a Ferd 9 is still an excellent choice.................. and a LOT easier and faster to swap gears than a Dana............
 
Buddy of mine has broken 3 of them in the last 2 years in his 500 hp 408 duster with a 4 speed. Breaks the pinion clean off w 489 or 742 units. I keep telling him to go w a dana 60. Especially if he plans to keep side stepping the clutch @ 3200 with M/T drag radials. I'm sure he would be fine with an auto.
 
If you use the AL case you won't have a problem.

If you are using the car on the street there can be an issue with it.

If you are strictly drag then use the AL case and you'll be fine, otherwise if you want to wait i am trying other options on the factory 8.75 to continue beyond 800hp and its limited amount of runs before having a issue, i know why i just have to get it to stop doing it.

.
 
Buddy of mine has broken 3 of them in the last 2 years in his 500 hp 408 duster with a 4 speed. Breaks the pinion clean off w 489 or 742 units. I keep telling him to go w a dana 60. Especially if he plans to keep side stepping the clutch @ 3200 with M/T drag radials. I'm sure he would be fine with an auto.


You're buddy has some other issue, I haven't ever yet had a SS customer come to me with a broken pin on 742's and they are leaving far higher than 3200. I'd suspect suspension issues there.
 
There was a guy named Major Cooksey (spelling might be off) who prepped Top Fuel 8.75's right up until the tire shake issues forced everybody to go to the Ford 9 inch. This was around 1974 or so. Car Craft did a feature on his rears sometime in the 72-73 timeframe. Can't find the article myself right now, but I remember it having some seriously good info on setting up the 8.75 to live behind 2000 horsepower. I know that Garlits for sure, was one of his customers.
The rears used back then were all based around factory castings, and up until 72 were almost all open, using stock spider gears and such. Builders would shim the spiders tight and the power was evenly distributed, but there was that little measure of slip that would absorb most of the shock that would typically kill the case when one tire would get loose and suddenly grab.
The technology was fine at 2000 horsepower and 1400 pounds. As the weight goes up, the amount of power you can pass through the rear goes down, obviously. But, at 3000 pounds, there's no reason on earth a properly prepped 8.75 won't hold 750 horsepower with an automatic and no brake.
The most extreme application of 8.75 I can think of was the Mr. Norms 65 Coronet. Approximately 1200 horsepower at 2700 pounds with best laps down in the 8.60 range.
 
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