I found an 8.75 under a Chrysler Newport in the bone yard. I shortened it to fit in my Dart. I ordered axles from Strange. I find that the axles are 26 3/16" from tip to flange stop snap ring. Measuring from the thrust block to the axle flange edge is 25 11/16", adding the backing plate, 25 13/16". Am I missing something or are these axles 3/8" too long?
8.75 SNAFU
- Thread starter Tays340
- Start date
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If your using Green style bearings your not suppose to use thrust blocks.
Here's where my naivety comes through. I didn't want green bearings for a daily driver and was told the ones I got were the new side load tapered bearing.
Can I take the thrust block out of an open carrier?, seems needed. Or should I just hack the extra length off?
Can I take the thrust block out of an open carrier?, seems needed. Or should I just hack the extra length off?
Just remove the thrust block. You’ll have to remove the third member and disassemble the cross shaft to remove it.
If the bearings are tapered, wouldn't you need a thrust block to be able to set the the bearing preload?
By the way there is nothing wrong with green bearings. Ford 9" use a similar type axle bearing with no issues at all.
65Val
Average Length Member
if you have the stock style replacement bearings, you need the thrust block, as Ma installed. I would just lop off the 3/8".
Naive, am I. You make this sound so easy. So pull the third member, pull the cross shaft and remove the thrust block. Put the cross shaft back in to hold the pinion gears?
Razzle frazzle, I'll be outside pulling stuff out of the car again. If this is as easy as you make it seem, I owe you one.
Any recommendations on gear oil? MIL-L-2105B seems extinct.
Thanks
Razzle frazzle, I'll be outside pulling stuff out of the car again. If this is as easy as you make it seem, I owe you one.
Any recommendations on gear oil? MIL-L-2105B seems extinct.
Thanks
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I thought that the torsen differential were the only ones that had to remove the spacer?
The bare housing with the burned up housing ends in the trunk of my valiant would disagree. But whatever. I'm not getting into this any more than I just did.
The bare housing with the burned up housing ends in the trunk of my valiant would disagree. But whatever. I'm not getting into this any more than I just did.
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Use a chop saw and cut them to the length you need and adjust the end play as needed.
Use Lucas gear oil with a bottle of ford friction modifier.
Edit: On an open carrier you don't need the ford modifier.
Use Lucas gear oil with a bottle of ford friction modifier.
Edit: On an open carrier you don't need the ford modifier.
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You know I would think at this point a couple of pictures would be in order? Other wise we are just guessing.
Pulled the third member and put the backing plates and axles back on. There's only 1/2" clearance. The cross shaft looks to be 7/8" as best I can measure. Axles are still too long. I will need to remove the carrier and the ring gear to get at the thrust block since the cross shaft is under the ring gear. Haven't been into a differential. Yet. Guessing it's time. I am confused. Should the axle shafts be tight against the cross shaft?
Are the axle bearings Green style? Did you install the axle nuts? Did you then pull out on the axles to seat them against the axle retaining flange? I you answered yes to all of this than yes your going to have to shorten the axles.
I guess they are green. They're definitely not adjustable. They have a thin snap ring that seats against the flange with a neoprene seal wrapping the bearing.. everything out to the drum fits fine as long as the third member is not in the way. You can see the bearings in this shot, maybe.
Then I would say your axles are to long. Probably need a 1/4" off each axle.
I'm thinking it's closer to 9/16 off each side leaving the block in.
Well maybe. I would remove the thrust button.
Dblackmt
Active Member
Just cut them off is the easy answer. Don’t over complicate it for yourself. Just use a chop saw and run water on it while you are cutting the axle. Measure twice and cut once.
In my inexperience, removing the carrier is worrisome. I'm not going to cut the axles unless necessary. Once it's all back together I'll be happy. Here goes...
Just to be sure.
Each axel is installed in this order.
Each axel is installed in this order.
- Housing
- Gasket
- Backing plate
- Gasket
- Axel with retainer
Okay,
removing the thrust block wasn't so bad. Axles are still about 3/16" too long if the snap ring is supposed to fit flush against the backing plate, which seems correct.
I'm having an idea though. I've still got the C body axles. I'm thinking I'll use those axle retaining plates as a spacer behind the backing plates until I can afford to upgrade to a posi unit. Keeps me from hacking the axles.
removing the thrust block wasn't so bad. Axles are still about 3/16" too long if the snap ring is supposed to fit flush against the backing plate, which seems correct.
I'm having an idea though. I've still got the C body axles. I'm thinking I'll use those axle retaining plates as a spacer behind the backing plates until I can afford to upgrade to a posi unit. Keeps me from hacking the axles.
At this point I would go a head and cut the axles the needed amount.
Yup, the axles are too long. Will need shortened for sure. Kim
I didn't want to hack the axles. In the end they are about 5/16" shorter. It's all bolted in the car now so...Happy!!
Next move is to pull out the 904 and put the in the 727. Then have the drive shaft shortened? It's only 51.5" now.
Thanks to all of you for your advice. I'm truly appreciative.
Next move is to pull out the 904 and put the in the 727. Then have the drive shaft shortened? It's only 51.5" now.
Thanks to all of you for your advice. I'm truly appreciative.
The axles are made to be cut. Cut the Damned axles and do it right. Knock off the jerry-rigging crap.
How did u get ur clearance? Certainly u didn’t use some kind of a spacer. Kim
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