833 Rake between gears.

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69DARTWANTED

69DARTWANTED

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I'm getting that raking sound when shifting the 69 dart. Someone mentioned to me it might be in the shifter??? I'm not a transmission expert by any means. Before I drop the tranny and take it somewhere to look inside does anybody have any external "shade tree mechanic" things I can try in order to smooth the shifting on my Dart?
 
More likely worn parts in the transmission. If the clutch does not release "clean" it can aggravate this, but if the syncro parts are in good shape, it should just "block" as you try to put it into gear. Could be a combo of the two.
 
I heard a handful of bark dust mite quiet it down! LOL Buy a book and take the thing apart yourself like I did and it was too easy. I had never been inside a transmission before and now that I've done it I wouldn't let anybody else touch it.:popcorn:
 
Pop the side cover and take a peek. No need to pull it...yet.
 
Good question on the fluid. I just bought the car earlier this month. I'm learning more about it every day.
When I pop the side cover, what am I looking for?
 
Okay I couldn't help myself I had to say that. So first you or to drain the oil before you pull the side cover obviously you don't want to I'll just come get you at you when that thing comes off. Taking a good look at the oil and maybe trying to figure out if they put tranny fluid in it automatic or if they put gear oil in it. Of course she'll want to look for metal or brass shavings when draining the oil. Doubtfully if the transmission is still working there's anything that would be too obvious by taking the cover off. And actually when I said to get a manual and pull it apart yourself most of the manual is online anyways if not all of it. I think those are like $50 at Brewers performance which is likely going to be some of your problem if not just the wrong kind of oil. And/or simple linkage adjustment. Please excuse the weird spelling end other words I just voice commanded all that so it came out a little weird.
 
There's no synchro in reverse!
If it grinds when upshifting , and there's oil in it,then the brass is done,period.If you continue to grind shifts it will become very expensive.
If it grinds on down-shifting, but not on upshifts, then you can still drive it a little longer, by not downshifting the bad gear; but bottom line is still,the brass is done.
It's a cheap fix if you stop right away and replace the brass rings.
Before you pull it, take note of any gears that are jumping out, that is to say;you have to hang on to the stick to keep it in gear.The cure for this is usually expensive, as both the gear and its slider usually need to be replaced. They can be modified by someone who knows how to,and has the tools, and then returned to service; but finding the guy can be a challenge.
 
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That's great advice. I put the car on jack stands last night. I'm going to pull the tranny today. It's grinding up upshifts, and occasionally gives me fits when down shifting. Anybody know a tranny guy in Wisconsin?
 
69DARTWANTED said:
That's great advice. I put the car on jack stands last night. I'm going to pull the tranny today. It's grinding up upshifts, and occasionally gives me fits when down shifting. Anybody know a tranny guy in Wisconsin?
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I rebuild them contact me, I'm located in Neenah, defiantly slider shoes and brass, I'd go through it for you, been doing them for years there pretty simple, I've got 2 other ones to build in garage right now that belong to other members on here I posted my contact info on your profile page seein I can't figure out how to pm on new sight lol
 
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YOU!! You are the transmissio guy in Wisconsin! If you have the tools to take it out the hard part's actually done! I'm serious they are so easy. If you got a $30 manual and pulled that thing apart you'd be amazed at how easy things are to fix on those there's literally almost no tolerances at all to worry about just take the parts out and put the parts back in literally that easy not confusing very straightforward. Seriously I'll post pictures of a step-by-step procedure walking through absolutely everything I literally put a crate icon chairs with a piece of plywood to have a clean 4 x 4 surface and took everything apart and put everything back together. It was extremely simple. I think I had to actually purchase some snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight for a few dollars was the only special tool that I needed. Save yourself hundreds of dollars and maybe lots of time to waiting for someone else to do it. You got the hard part done now do the easy part yourself.
 
It's not too bad to do, but by no means is an easy project, I don't just degrease them and put a couple bearings in, and paint them! Yes, having the right tool's helps, but this is not for a novice, it can get tricky when you start seperating the main shaft, Iv'e done many of them, and there are trick's that I have learned over the year's, unless you want to be pulling it back out again , I would have it done by someone with experience. I alway's recommend trying it on an old junk tran's if you want to learn how to do it. Not trying to scare anyone off from trying this, but this is one of the main part's of your drive train
 
jtkaaa07 said:
It's not too bad to do, but by no means is an easy project, I don't just degrease them and put a couple bearings in, and paint them! Yes, having the right tool's helps, but this is not for a novice, it can get tricky when you start seperating the main shaft, Iv'e done many of them, and there are trick's that I have learned over the year's, unless you want to be pulling it back out again , I would have it done by someone with experience. I alway's recommend trying it on an old junk tran's if you want to learn how to do it. Not trying to scare anyone off from trying this, but this is one of the main part's of your drive train
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I'm confused ?? Two post to go you said it was simple and on your last post you said it's not so easy? I personally found it extremely easy but that's just me I guess. I had never even taken the cover off of 1 and completely rebuild it with a $26 manual I bought at the bookstore and did it in almost no time at all. again like I said there's really no tolerances is just basically putting it back together the same way you took it apart. Of course there are things to look for that a professional probably would know, but so far with about 30 passes on the dragstrip with a stroker motor in front of it and a Dana 60 behind it and a vertigate shifter on top of it it's working absolutely perfect. that's just been my experience but let em spend his money where he wants to I'm not trying to save or spend any. and no offfense to your skills, I'm sure you do great work.
 
None taken, what I said if I recall was "it's not too bad,but by no means easy", and " Not trying to scare anyone off from trying this" I don't rebuild transmissions for a living either, has nothing to do with making money, I was offering to help out a fellow Wisconsin member, the machinery Iv'e been repairing for the last 25 years is far more complicated then a 4 speed, so for me to imply to someone that it's easy is not how I operate, everyone has different skill levels, just didn't want to give anyone the impression that it's a beginner type project.
 
Of the 3 Mopar powertrain components,IMO, the A833 it is the easiest, and simplest,to rebuild; for anyone that has learned to read and write, and can tie their shoe-laces.If you can't read or write, it is only a little more time consuming. But if you also can't tie your shoelaces, and you ain't handicapped,well, you either need to eat less,or get a helper, or farm it out.
But hey, if someone offers to help, and they are within driving distance, what can be nicer than meeting and conversating with a fellow enthusiast, whilst getting your hands dirty,and learning new stuff.
I for one love sharing, and passing skills on.
 
69DARTWANTED said:
I'm getting that raking sound when shifting the 69 dart. Someone mentioned to me it might be in the shifter??? I'm not a transmission expert by any means. Before I drop the tranny and take it somewhere to look inside does anybody have any external "shade tree mechanic" things I can try in order to smooth the shifting on my Dart?
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Start by making sure the bolts that attach the shifter to the transmission plate are torqued correctly, adjust your shifter linkage, drain fluid and replace with 90 wt gear oil. If it still grinds, listen to the guys above.
 
66fs said:
Start by making sure the bolts that attach the shifter to the transmission plate are torqued correctly, adjust your shifter linkage, drain fluid and replace with 90 wt gear oil. If it still grinds, listen to the guys above.
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Good advise, I have seen this happen many times, it takes the linkage out of sync when shifter comes loose, which would make it hard to shift and also grind,
 
For the A833, and the A230
I think there is exactly three reasons for grinding; 1) worn-out or broken brass, and 2) wrong oil, and 3) you physically overpowered the brass.
Well, technically,there is just one reason; there is a miss-match in speeds between the selected gear and the moving slider.
The floppy shifter or misaligned gate, just makes it a PITA to find gears.

I guess there could be a fourth reason; say you broke a fork-pin on the 1-2 shift but the tranny made it into second. If you then try to select third,Well, there is no way the brass can slow third gear down, cuz everything is still madly locked in second. I guess that could do some grinding all right.
 
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Mystery solved. The tranny was overhauled 40 years ago for pure drag racing. What's in it now is called a "crash box". I'm no expert, but gears have been modified and parts have been removed for this car to jam shift period. When you slam it, she goes. However, plain old cruising is a SOB. It won't be cheap, but I'm gathering up all the parts to put it back to stock post 1970. I told there were a lot of upgrades to the way the 833 shifted between 69 and 70.
 
69DARTWANTED said:
Mystery solved. The tranny was overhauled 40 years ago for pure drag racing. What's in it now is called a "crash box". I'm no expert, but gears have been modified and parts have been removed for this car to jam shift period. When you slam it, she goes. However, plain old cruising is a SOB. It won't be cheap, but I'm gathering up all the parts to put it back to stock post 1970. I told there were a lot of upgrades to the way the 833 shifted between 69 and 70.
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Dibs on those old parts !
 
If you can get the tranny out and back in the hard part is done. Remember, I said it first- do it yourself !
 
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