833 with Pro Parts Headers - Linkage Question

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72Duster440

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I currently have a 440 in a 72 Duster that is running a 727. I'm about to swap to a 4 speed (833) and wondering if anyone has experince with Pro Parts headers. They are currently on the car, and it sure doesn't look like a Z bar will fit in there. I have bought the hydraulic throwout bearing kit, but I can't get the master cylinder to fit in the factory clutch rod hole location, it hits the primary tube

TLDR; Anybody run pro parts headers with a 4 speed, if so, what trans linkage setup do you use?
 
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Im running a 383 with a 4 speed and hydraulic TOB. master fits with a little ding in the inner wheel well. 1967 barracuda. Thats a wilwood 3/4" jobbie I think. The Tilton number is another 1/4" shorter....IIRC

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EDIT: Sorry, Im running TTIs 1 3/4s, minor detail
 
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Im running a 383 with a 4 speed and hydraulic TOB. master fits with a little ding in the inner wheel well. 1967 barracuda. Thats a wilwood 3/4" jobbie I think. The Tilton number is another 1/4" shorter....IIRC

View attachment 1715986963

EDIT: Sorry, Im running TTIs 1 3/4s, minor detail


Thanks.
I'm not worried about the master fitting with sheet metal, it's my headers that are confusing me. I have that same Wilwood master but with the Apex mounting bracket.
 
I think the Hydraulic Cylinder would eliminate
any problems.
I am looking at My 500 Duster with Pro Headers
right now.
 
I think the master might fit with a little work and making some new brake lines, but the exhaust primary is super close to it, I may end up wrapping that header tube to try and combat the heat getting into the master.


I also tried putting a long screwdriver through the z bar pivot stud hole in the frame, there is no way to get it to touch the bellhousing with the headers there, so mechanical linkage is definitely out of the question.

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Years ago, we moved the bellcrank back very close to the firewall in a 440 Duster with Pro Parts headers to run a 4 speed. The bellcrank was homemade but looked more like a b/e bellcrank and the headers required no modifications. Worked good and used it for years.
 
Here's is the bellcrank hole near the firewall when I had 2" Chrysler Power headers (now TTI) on my '69 Barracuda with a 440. Same idea as Pro Parts.

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That's an option, if I moved it rearward I think it would clear. Thanks, I'll have to mess around with one.
 
i too want to put a 4 speed in my 69 dart with pro parts headers.it looks real close where the z bar would go and the clutch rod coming down from the pedal.i want to buy a whole 4 speed kit from brewers and it all not work.i really dont want to change headers as i love them.i have a 727 thats on its last leg and slips going from 2nd to 3rd.i miss those days of a 4 speed in the 70s and 80s and want to relive those days.i know a hydraulic clutch is a option.but not sure if i want to go that route.i did a google seach and it brought me to this thread.i did message brewers on facebook.about this.if nothing ill email them from there website.or call next week.i know brewers isnt shipping no parts this week so they might not be there

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Here are a few things that think I remember from 25+ years ago. Use an appropriate length of threaded rod in one of the bellhousing holes (bolt filling in for a threaded rod since I don't have one nearby) I'm not sure which hole:lol: I used but one will make more sense than the other. The end of the threaded rod will show where the wheel well hole needs to be. The pedal rod was installed so that the bell crank would have better clearance (curve toward the engine). Keep the bell

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crank arms the same length as a stock big block a body bell crank. The homemade bell crank will resemble a B/E body bell crank.
 
so i got a answer from brewers on facebook.he says he has a 68 cuda with pro parts headers and hes converting over to 4 speed.but he hasnt got that far on it yet
 
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