9 inch hubs?

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PhillH

PhillH

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I'm probably not going to like the answer but here goes. 69 dart with drums, I need to replace the front drums and they have welded themselves to the hubs, no amount of persuasion seems to help at all. My last hop for them is taking to my mechanic and put them in a press but I don't have high hopes they will be usable afterward. Where can I buy them? Hubs or whole assembly.
 
PhillH said:
I'm probably not going to like the answer but here goes. 69 dart with drums, I need to replace the front drums and they have welded themselves to the hubs, no amount of persuasion seems to help at all. My last hop for them is taking to my mechanic and put them in a press but I don't have high hopes they will be usable afterward. Where can I buy them? Hubs or whole assembly.
Click to expand...


I have a very low mileage set off my all original '69 Barracuda. Have the drums also. I had just put new lines and cylinders on the front end when i decided to swap to disk brakes. I had also replaced the arms/ball joints as you can see. Also replaced the bearings and seal and shoes. My car only had 54,000 miles on it when I removed the spindles/drums. I had only driven the car for 700-800 miles after overhaul when I put disc brakes on it. I'll sell them for a good price as I have no need for them.
I'm in Texas
treblig
 

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The original drum and hub assemblies are swedged together at the lug studs. Several threads here about getting them apart.
 
Yes I did plan on new studs and nuts, so I wasn't worried about ruining them, I beat them hard! They refuse to budge not even one stud came out.
 
Does it have good studs both left hand and right hand ? Maybe you have ruined them w/ the hammer already but if not, the correct cutter might be a better plan.
The drum will absorb the impact. To beat them out requires supporting under/ inside like with a piece of thick wall tubing surrounding the studs head.
Now would be a great time to atleast consider the Scarebird conversion or other disc brake conversion.
 
Ok. I'm surprised someone didn't already chime in with this one, I'm sure it's here already if I had known what to search for. The original studs have what I'm calling chines going all the way through the hub, normal. However I've never seen this setup, the chines also bite into the drum, on top of that after you beat them to get 45 year old drum and hub separated, the studs are shot, even using an air hammer and lots of torch ( no luck) with the nuts on backwards, they are shot. After you finally get them separated, the studs have a reverse cone shape, meaning the harder you beat them the tighter they get! Ugh! Then you have to grind off of the studs the protruding reverse cone of the chines down to where they will fit through the hole they are seated in on the stud, and then beat them out using a BFH and lots of heat on the hub. Times this by ten, fun job that was.
 
Also I did see on a couple other threads about getting new studs in the rear axles and not having room to get the stud in the back on the small rear ends. I ran into this but just take off the brake cylinder and use that hole, FYI.
 
PhillH said:
Ok. I'm surprised someone didn't already chime in with this one, I'm sure it's here already if I had known what to search for. The original studs have what I'm calling chines going all the way through the hub, normal. However I've never seen this setup, the chines also bite into the drum, on top of that after you beat them to get 45 year old drum and hub separated, the studs are shot, even using an air hammer and lots of torch ( no luck) with the nuts on backwards, they are shot. After you finally get them separated, the studs have a reverse cone shape, meaning the harder you beat them the tighter they get! Ugh! Then you have to grind off of the studs the protruding reverse cone of the chines down to where they will fit through the hole they are seated in on the stud, and then beat them out using a BFH and lots of heat on the hub. Times this by ten, fun job that was.
Click to expand...

You didn't read thru that link I posted,, did you..??

It only takes a few minutes with a drill and a coupla different bits to drill the heads off, then a moderate hit with a medium hammer and punch shoots the old stud right out, the stud are only mild steel.. as you found out.. Too much heat can cause it's own probs..

Oh well,, You can lead a horse to water, .... . . . .. lol
 
I had to learn this lesson the hard way. I wanted to convert my LH threads to all RH threads and took the new studs to an experienced brake man. He pounded out the stud and ruined (enlarged) the hole in the hub. Then I ask questions and did my research on this forum.

I found out about the "swedging" installation. It is really quite interesting how Chrysler and some Fords were done this way. Chrysler felt that it would make for a better assembly if the drum and hub were pressed together. There are different methods to remove the studs, but pounding them out is not one of them. I hope you haven't ruined the holes yet. Good luck.
 
obviously you did not rear redfish's post about swedged brake drums, sometimes you need to read before getting out the BFH, Lawrence
 
I guess I didn't fully understand redfish explanation. If I had a metal bit big enough I would've tried drilling off the head. That was a hard way to learn this one, I'm lucky everything went back together ok.
 
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