940 rebuild... should I?

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Buy a large jar of Jared generic Vaseline LOL for the transmission! LOL two boxes of rubber gloves at Harbor Freight 2 rolls of paper towels and is much awesome as you can carry out of the Dollar Tree! LOL
 
So, basically I'd be just replacing the valve body? Do you remember where you bought it? Am I just searching for the valve body part#?

Basically you take that plate on the right off and screw the circled part on in place of it and put the plate back on the end of the new part with the supplied longer screws.
The red circled assy is the entire kit.

s-l500.jpg
 
Buy a large jar of Jared generic Vaseline LOL for the transmission! LOL two boxes of rubber gloves at Harbor Freight 2 rolls of paper towels and is much awesome as you can carry out of the Dollar Tree! LOL

HAHA sounds good. I love the idea of just changing out the valve body or part of it, rather than dropping the whole tranny and then rebuilding the "new" used one on the bench, especially if it'll get me shifting the way it's supposed to.
 
And all this is reachable without dropping the trans out of the car? I like this idea a lot.

Yep, just by dropping the valve body and putting it back in, because that part goes on the top side of the VB.
I think I may have actually giggled a little when I drove mine after.:D
 
Yep, just by dropping the valve body and putting it back in, because that part goes on the top side of the VB.
I think I may have actually giggled a little when I drove mine after.:D

I'd actually probably laugh out loud if I could pull that off with mine. I've watched a few videos and it seems like the hardest part of pulling the valve body is getting the parking rod in and out. Any tips for that?
 
My 71 Dart 340 Swinger is my daily and the current 940 will shift up ok but won't kick down on throttle stomp and I basically have to stop for it to come back down to 1st or second. During normal acceleration, 1-2 is at 20ish, 2-3 is at 40ish.

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If the KD mech is not making a difference, then this is a governor issue. Either the fly-weight is too light, or the E-clip has flipped off.
Unfortunately, it's a bit of a PITA to physically check it or change it. However you can run a hydraulic pressure test to determine if it is still functioning, and to what degree.
I've never tried it but perhaps you can see the governor thru the speed-O opening, but you would still have to take the extension off to make a change.
 
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I'd actually probably laugh out loud if I could pull that off with mine. I've watched a few videos and it seems like the hardest part of pulling the valve body is getting the parking rod in and out. Any tips for that?

Just have the wheels in the air or the driveline disconnected so you can turn the driveline while you jam the park rod back through the pawl.
It allows the cogs of the park assembly to line up so the pawl moves out of the way so the rod end can go through.
It's not hard.
You can also pull the rod clip and disconnect the rod from the VB if you would rather.
Personally I think that way takes longer and is more of a pain.
 
If the KD mech is not making a difference, then this is a governor issue. Either the fly-weight is too light, or the E-clip has flipped off.

Can I get to either of these with the valve body out? I'm a first timer with transmissions so, I'll have to find both of these and where they're located.
 
If the KD mech is not making a difference, then this is a governor issue. Either the fly-weight is too light, or the E-clip has flipped off.

I think 20 and 40 is too high an adjustment for it to kick down anyway.
 
The gov is more of a PIA than the VB itself to get to, but it can be gotten to by only pulling the driveline, crossmemberand tail of the trans.
 
Should be lower? like 15 and 35?

Stock was more like 10 and 15 under light throttle, but they shift like crap for a street car like that.
The problem is that once the pressure is thrown off by upping the shift points, the pressure is too high to kick down.
The Transgo TF2 shift kit solves a lot of that and is the mid range of the kits.
 
Stock was more like 10 and 15 under light throttle, but they shift like crap for a street car like that.
The problem is that once the pressure is thrown off by upping the shift points, the pressure is too high to kick down.
The Transgo TF2 shift kit solves a lot of that and is the mid range of the kits.

Ok, so it's not an even spread through the shift points. I think I'll be learning a lot once I pull this all apart.
 
Ok, so it's not an even spread through the shift points. I think I'll be learning a lot once I pull this all apart.

I and a lot of others wish.:D
You can also order governor kits by specifying the RPM's you want the shifts at.
Those can be gotten from A&A transmissions online.
Home - A&A Transmissions

If I had to list in an order I would change things it would be,
1. part throttle kit
2. shift kit
Then the possible governor mods.
 
Just found this local Craigslist sad boy did this guy get taken to the cleaners!
Mopar 727 A transmission rebuilt

Wow ok so I should get really good at these and do them for 1/3 of that price and have a nice side income.

Just for kicks I looked on jegs and Summit and they have them new (refurbished) for 1,000 to 1200 with a warranty for crying out loud
 
Wow ok so I should get really good at these and do them for 1/3 of that price and have a nice side income.

Just for kicks I looked on jegs and Summit and they have them new (refurbished) for 1,000 to 1200 with a warranty for crying out loud
You should go ahead and look up what a rebuild kit is on Summit? Or a transgo stage 2 shift kit?
And don't fall for that having to buy crazy special tools bologna! You can make the tools you need at home.
 
Be mindful of what you get for a kit. When i ordered mine,by part number my supplier couldnt provide it, another vendor subbed kit came in and had no thrust washers or bushings. And was shy on clutches and steels.
And was more money.
Reassembled with what i had, saved a couple clutches from old one and lived with the worn bushings.
Next go-around i will be paying closer attention.

By the way,get the book. Its money well spent and its easier than you think.
 
You should go ahead and look up what a rebuild kit is on Summit? Or a transgo stage 2 shift kit?
And don't fall for that having to buy crazy special tools bologna! You can make the tools you need at home.

Oh I'll probably get the rebuild kit either from Jegs or Summit. I was just saying the guy paid 1600 plus for rebuilding his and he could have had one for 4-6 hundred less with a warranty from those guys.

I'm a ways away from the rebuild, I still have to get the transmission trucked down here from Buffalo, it's still at my brother's house unfortunately. Then I'll be able to have a look and see what's what.
 
Be mindful of what you get for a kit. When i ordered mine,by part number my supplier couldnt provide it, another vendor subbed kit came in and had no thrust washers or bushings. And was shy on clutches and steels.
And was more money.
Reassembled with what i had, saved a couple clutches from old one and lived with the worn bushings.
Next go-around i will be paying closer attention.

By the way,get the book. Its money well spent and its easier than you think.

Oh yea, wouldn't think of it without the book, that's for sure. And I'll be sure to do my research on the rebuild kits. It might even make sense for me to pull it apart to investigate it first and then I'll know what should be replaced and it should help me pick out the right kit.
 
Oh yea, wouldn't think of it without the book, that's for sure. And I'll be sure to do my research on the rebuild kits. It might even make sense for me to pull it apart to investigate it first and then I'll know what should be replaced and it should help me pick out the right kit.
Again I recommend if you have a transmission Parts Warehouse or anything like that close by to get your kit there. If you have to go get replacement parts or anything it's a lot easier to be able to drive there. That could be a big if also because I just happen to live in a town that has two pretty comprehensive transmission warehouses.
And yeah that's mechanics 101 take it apart and have the parts match up at the parts store.
 
Again I recommend if you have a transmission Parts Warehouse or anything like that close by to get your kit there. If you have to go get replacement parts or anything it's a lot easier to be able to drive there. That could be a big if also because I just happen to live in a town that has two pretty comprehensive transmission warehouses.
And yeah that's mechanics 101 take it apart and have the parts match up at the parts store.

I'm in Charleston, SC so unfortunately there's really nothing around as far as transmission warehouses. There's a couple of mom and pops shops that SAY they're transmission parts places but in reality they're not much of anything and it's mostly newer stuff.

When I first picked up the car the transmission wouldn't shift at all, turned out there was no fluid in it, so I took it to a shop that also said they were a parts store, they did a service to it, drained whatever was left in the pan, changed the filter and put fluid in it. Said it was shifting, so I paid and drove it home, shifted into 3rd by 10 miles an hour and I knew something else was wrong. Posted some pictures online here and someone saw the linkage for the TV was missing, so the transmission shop missed that and someone somewhere else in the country picked up on it from a picture. Didn't leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling about that transmission shop/parts store.
 
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