A body 4 speed in a truck. Can this be done?

-

alpha13

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
378
Reaction score
19
Location
Iowa
I've got an A body 4 speed OD under the bench in the garage that has been begging me to do something with it. Has anyone every installed one in a truck? In a perfect world a Truck 4 speed would be a direct swap. However, this is what I've got to work with. Would the shifter come out of the floor too far forward? If so, do you suppose I could just build a custom shifter with a few funky bends to clear the dash? Has anyone done this? Thanks.
 
Haven't done it but isn't there two mount points for the shifter pad? you'd have to find the right linkage Id think if you moved the mount back you'd need longer rods. etc.
 

Here's the opposite swap- lots of good info
 
If it's a D series LWB, use the setup with the carrier bearing from a truck with a HD 4 speed.
 
I've got an A body 4 speed OD under the bench in the garage that has been begging me to do something with it. Has anyone every installed one in a truck? In a perfect world a Truck 4 speed would be a direct swap. However, this is what I've got to work with. Would the shifter come out of the floor too far forward? If so, do you suppose I could just build a custom shifter with a few funky bends to clear the dash? Has anyone done this? Thanks.
833s came in trucks from the factory, guessing mid-late 70s (a bit out of my wheelhouse, so I can't tell you the exact years), so all the factory hardware is available. They used a fiberglass floor hump for the shifter. They used the long tail shaft (B,C,E body) transmission though- not sure if the trucks used the forward or rear shifter mounts on those. But the bellhousings and clutch linkages are out there for them.
You didn't say what year truck you're putting it in, if it's a later truck with hydraulic pedals and linkage, you'll most likely need to swap it all out to the earlier mechanical linkage to work with the truck 833 bellhousing.
The good news is if you can make the A body shifter location work for you (it's about midway between the short and long pads of the long tail trans), you can just make up the length difference with the driveshaft. The trans mount pad is in the same location whether it's a long or short tail transmission.
 
A side note on the NP 435/445 (and maybe some three speed LWB applications, but haven't seen any in person to know...). The transmission used a bolt on rear drive yoke, and the slip yoke rode on the splined stubout that came through the carrier bearing. You would have to use a slip yoke out of the transmission and probably shorten the front driveline.
 
It will go bolt in like it was born there, assuming '72-'93 2WD D-series. The D100/D150s came with A833s from 1976-'87. The trans mount will align and nothing changed in the bell pattern. You'll need the OD bellhousing since the overdrive has a 5.125" front bearing retainer. All other LA bells used a 4.354" retainer; the retainers don't swap between OD and non-OD small-block transmissions.
If you're going behind a big-block, you can swap the 4.805" bearing retainer onto the OD trans, as long as it has the 4.16" bolt pattern.
The clutch linkage might be a trick; I'd check the parts books or contact Brewer's. I'm not 100% sure the A/F-body linkage would clear the truck's trans crossmember.
You'll also find that the driveshaft needs to be about 4" longer and the shifter will be a little further to the rear than original, I'm guessing by about 3". The OD truck used a mounting plate that moved the shifter a couple of inches back (and up) from the forward B-body position, but not far enough back to equal the A/F-body shifter location.

Long story short, though, there are thousands of direct-fit A833OD truck transmissions out there that would involve a lot less screwing around to install. If it's got a cast iron long tailshaft and an aluminum main case, it's a truck OD.
 
I put an f body 833 of in a 79d100 that started out as a 3 on the tree. I did it because it was what I had and was broke.
I remember going to the junkyard and picking thru a pile of driveshafts and found one the right length, went right in. I don't remember what I did with the shifter as I do remember having to cut the hole anyway. I don't remember if I made a bracket to move the shifter on that one or if I used the location available to me on the tailshaft. I thought I had to make a bracket to move the shifter as there was something about interference with the truck crossmember, this was 30 years ago....
I'm about to swap in an 833 is to an 85 but this time I have a trans that came from an 81 truck going in, should be easier than that 79 was and I don't remember that one being all that bad.
Biggest advantage I have now that I didn't have then is I now have my own 2 post lift, the 79 had to be done on jackstands.
 
if you need some measurements, let me know. i am parting out an 87 shortbed truck with a /6 and o/d
 
if you need some measurements, let me know. i am parting out an 87 shortbed truck with a /6 and o/d
Yeah I'd appreciate that, Dont remember, I'm thinking the fiberglass shifter hump thing is molded such that it really only fits (right, anyway) in one particular spot on the tunnel. I haven't gotten that far yet.
In my case (don't want to take away from the OPs thread) I have most of what's needed to add the factory hydraulic throw out master and slave. This part I have never done. From what I understand I'm gonna have to pull the bulkhead plug and cut the bulkhead hole longer towards the driver side so I can slide that over, as I guess the current location is exactly in the way of where the master mounts and the master pushrod passes thru the firewall.
Measurements and reference points for that would Definitely be handy.
 
Anything can fit anywhere. You can put a 13 speed RoadRanger transmission in that thing if you want it in there.
 
Thanks guys, lots of good input here. The general consensus is that it could work with a little massaging but not alot of hard work. I think the hard part would be the clutch linkage location. I may go hydraulic to clear that up. Also getting a new driveshaft. Which I already knew I was going to have to do. I suppose anything is possible with some fabrication. I honestly didn't think the shifter would move backwards. I thought the shifter would be too far forward. The A body Shifter I have has a very short throw. It might be aftermarket, but I haven't looked at it in a while. I remember a shifter on an A203 3 speed I had was super sloppy compared to this shifter.
 
Clutch linkage location won't change a bit.
Shifter location might a bit.
 
I have two D-100 trucks that came from the factory with a 225 engine and 833 OD trans.
A 1980 and a 1987.
Both use the front shifter mount, and both use a flat plate (that can't be too hard to fabricate) to mount the shifter to the mount location.

IIRC the actual shifter mechanism sits basically straight above the mount location, elevated about 2-3 inches.

Don't forget the shift rods.
 
Here is a picture of the a833 of truck adapter plate and shift rods.

image.jpg
 
Well, I went through the whole fiasco of mounting up everything and started measuring and thinking about hacking up my rust free floor and I just couldn't do it. I decided to get an overdrive with a 46RH unit out of an old 92 Dodge dakota 2 wheel drive. I just couldn't bring myself to cut up the floor. However, I will be using that 4 speed after all. I purchased an F body 79 Dodge Aspen with the 225 super six. I appreciate all of the great advice that was given to me. I learned a good deal.
 
The floor cut is pretty straightforward- just an oval.

The "bump" is a piece of thick, molded plastic that also accepts the boot flange.

Would be pretty simple to put back if necessary.
 
-
Back
Top