adjusting my vac

[moper]

I think you missed the point of the slower idle speed in regard to setting initial. It has to be SLOWER to get an accurate reading. The heavy springs may already be starting to advance at 1100rpm. SLOW IT DOWN. Ignore the carb for now. Only set the initial timing. I mistakenly assumed you had this part down...lol. Get it down to 800rpm with the heavy springs and set initial to 18° (or 24, whatever floats your boat). When you have a steady initial reading, then you can work on the carb mixture and balance.

 

[moper]

Just so you know, it now sounds like the engine is idling, the advance weights are opening a little causing the idle to try to raise, then the carb slows it, making a bad instability. The actual initial timing is more than likely much lower right now...

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

SO when I warm the car up, with the Heavier springs in...put the car in park and lower the in gear rpms too 800? and keep advancing the initial and keep lowering the rpm too 800 when the rpms go up from advancing the initial? and Moper Ive had the initial at 18, but I still have all these problems which is why they suggested I put more in

 

[green1]

I'm having the same problem. I decided the mech is coming in at idle. My 340 , 10.25 cr, with a 230@.050; .484, 110 c/l, wants 20 to 30 initial. As soon as I can afford a modern dissy (old mallory, no longer supported), I'm going to temp lock out all advance, set the initial and carb, then modify the dissy advance.

 

[crackedback]

If it will idle at 800 in park set the timing there, less chance of mechanical bleeding in. My 24* suggestion is just a starting point, it might want more.

Honestly, get it hot, and start turning the distributor counter-clockwise, reset idle speed, until it kick back on the starter, then turn it a smidge clockwise. Lock it down and check where timing is set.

I agree with 70aarcuda, that cam really shouldn't be in there, but, it is. Nothing that is considered "normal" will likely work from an initial timing standpoint. So, you have to think outside the box!

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

and you said turn it gets kick back...will it get kick back while the car is running or do i have to check that when i turn the car off?

 

[crackedback]

Advance it, turn the car off, try to start it.

You'll know if it kicks back, sounds like it's got rocks in it.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

ok and when I advance it from where it is right now 18-19 too 22 should i lock it down at 22 then turn it off and try to start it and repeat if all is well?

 

[crackedback]

Yes, keep advancing it

Read post #105 100 times if you need to .

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

got it thanks just filled the car up with gas and ready to do this again

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

just wondering....how long should it be sitting before i start it again before I try to check for kick back? because im at 30 degrees already initial

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

you want it to be fully warmed up.

If it ain't kickin back at 30* then you have to low compression or too big of a cam for it.

if thats the case, stay at 26-28* initial and then limit it to what ever total you find it runs best with.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

will 26 initial with 18 mechanical be ok? with 10.9 compression and 95 octane?

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

I set it at 27 initial and it has 18 mechanical right now...I have not taken it out for a drive..Waiting for more responses

 

[green1]

If it starts when warm, and the starter doesn't go errr errr errr. Dragging and slow, Like a puppy sounds when being constipated, and trying. you are still good. maybe more advance left in it.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

im letting it warm up again...seems to run tad cooler now and takes awhile to warm up

 

[green1]

Once you get err, err err, back off the timing 2. Now use timing light to see advance at 3000. Anything over 35, that much needs to be blocked off in the mech of your dissy. 35, 36 degrees,minus your initial=amount of advance allowed in dissy.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

i have 18 mechanical....so right now i have 45 =/

ok So I was setting the timing at 800-850...its at 26-27initial...If i remember correctly if i set the idle speed at 950-1100 the mechanical starts too bleed in because at 11-1300 i have like 35 degrees of timing...so I think I need the stiffer springs in.

 

[green1]

Take out 10 from dissy, remember, that will be 20, due to dissy spins twice.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

i dont know how to take more out without changing the little bearing thing..and the only way i know how to get 10 or 14 is buy the ones FBO sells.. Waiting for moper or Crack. to say something

 

[crackedback]

Everything you need has been written in here many times.

Quit putting the cart before the horse, and you'll actually get somewhere.

If it ran better at 27*, which I bet it did, why would you put it back to 18 or whatever. :disgust

Green1 is spot on with the distributor bushing.... You need a larger bushing, either make one or buy one!

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

I dident...ITS AT 27 initial!!! with 18 in the dizzy which makes 45 TOTAL and I dont know how to make one

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

ha ha ha.... man

stretch the frickin springs!!!!!!!

then you'll be holding weights out[as in.. using up some of the mech advance so that you don't end up with too much at full advance]

let us know weather you understand the concept..

 

[crackedback]

Does it run better? Did you have to turn the idle speed screw out when you cranked in the timing? I bet it's snappier at idle and the car starts easier.

If so turn the carb up, reset the idle screws and start over on it.

Stop worrying about the f'ing total timing!!! You have to adjust that next by making or buying a larger bushing! Stretching the springs will work too, but, not my favorite method

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

ha ha ha.... man

stretch the frickin springs!!!!!!!

then you'll be holding weights out[as in.. using up some of the mech advance so that you don't end up with too much at full advance]

let us know weather you understand the concept..

im confused on your concept

Does it run better? Did you have to turn the idle speed screw out when you cranked in the timing? I bet it's snappier at idle and the car starts easier.

If so turn the carb up, reset the idle screws and start over on it.

Stop worrying about the f'ing total timing!!! You have to adjust that next by making or buying a larger bushing! Stretching the springs will work too, but, not my favorite method

ok not worrying...it does run better...it ran very well with 32 initial and maybe could have keep going not sure.. and If I remember correctly I didn't really have to move the idle speed screw..It does sound snappier.. what do you mean about the turn the carb up and reset the idle screws and start over?