advice: 500hp SB build

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You guys rock!! Thanks again for taking all the time out with your detailed responses.

I'll have to mull some thing over and start mapping out my plans for this build. This thread has already given me some great ideas.

Moper - in your last post... why would the engine have to be re-balanced internally?
 
Fly, did you use/need the Comp spring.
And if so, what did it take to get them on the head?

Ryan set up the heads at his shop after he ported them. Comp recommended a very light spring, comp 914-16, 368 lbs open 150 ish on the seat. Ryan said NO WAY, he set me up with comp 939-16, 450 lbs open and 190 on the seat. This was a compromise because of my Comp pro magnum rockers…they tend to gall the rocker shafts with spring pressures over 450. With that said, I’m going to try to banana groove my rocker shafts to help them survive.

He had to machine the heads for spring cups…not sure about the diameter. I do know that the valve spring on the head bolt between cylinders 2&4 is going to have to come off to tighten my head bolts…the nut fits on fine, no interference, but I can’t get a socket on it.
 
Here’s my new build that I’m assembling right now, it should be a little over 500 hp.

360 block, Eagle 4 inch steel crank (410 ci), Scat I-beams, Diamond pistons, Total seal rings, 10.8:1 compression,
ARP main/head studs, Edelbrock heads with stage 2 port from RyanJ @ Shady Dell (flow 293 @ 0.600),
Comp Pro Magnum Rockers, Comp solid roller XR286R 248/254 @ 0.05 and 0.576/0.582 lift,
Air-Gap, Proform 750 dp, Headman 1 ¾ primary headers, 727 w/ PTC 8 in converter,
4.10 gears, Moser 35 spline axels, spool, Hoosier 28x 11.5 QTP, 3250 lbs with driver.

All this wrapped in a 67 Barracuda…Should be good for low 11’s easily. With a 950 dp and a Victor intake, 10’s should be attainable.:-D

Good luck with your build!
Sounds like a nice build - what's the deck height w/ the pistons you went with, and what CC heads did you go with? Were they shaved or anything?

I've never run a solid cam before - how do they compare on the street vs, a hydro (maint., driveability, etc.)?

what about the intake - was it port matched or modified at all?
 
Do you remember any of the build specs of that old 360 you had? That's right where I want to be in terms of performance - how is/was the car set up?

This motor was built in 1988 with W-2 heads and a small Crane solid roller([email protected] & .500 lift)
The pistons were old Direct Connection units that weighed a ton, 12.5 to 1.
Some dome was cut off to bring them down to 11.5, but it would not run on pump gas with the iron heads. I bought a drum of C-12 and soon got tired of
filling from a gas can everytime i wanted to go for a drive, so i parked the car
for 14 yrs. and sold that 360.

It's an original '74 360 car w/only 14,000 miles & orig. paint, I will post some pics as soon as i get it from storage.

As far as chassis, I've always liked to keep is simple - super stock springs,
good adjustable rear shocks, loose front shocks & a sticky tire.
On automatic cars i don't use a pinion snubber, but yours being a 4-speed
absolutley - set about 1" from the floor, and check pinion angle, it should be
5-7 degrees down (u-joints soak up hp.like a sponge).:cheers:
 
Do you have any idea what your 414 puts out in terms of power?

It is supposed to be 500 hp 500 torque but it has not been on a dyno so I don't know. It is more power then I can use with street tires. It can put on a real good smoke show and no you don't need to use the brakes. Just put the pedal down any time under 25 mph and the tires are blazing. Feels like a hopped up big block is sitting under the hood but without the weight. It can get kind of hairy some times, almost lost control once or twice, now I am a little more cautious. I have had it up to 80 - 90 mph at full throttle and its pretty scary; the body of the car is torquing and it pulls real real hard with a loud roar coming from the 4 barrel. It feels like it wants to rev forever. Real happy with the power.

If you go to my profile's photo gallery I have the cam specs, compression etc listed there.

StrokerEngine.jpg
 
I like Brian at Indio Motor Machine. He's a Mopar guy that runs 360's almost exclusively in his stuff. He's currently building an 48*R block/W2 360 for his Duster.

Brian recently had a 340 with stock ede's, xs282s and it made right at 460-470hp IIRC. It was a pretty nasty little piece. A little bowl porting and clean up in the runners and it would have made close to 500 IMHO.

Brian is the guy who had the custom ground retrofit roller cam ground for my engine. He must know what he is doing because my car makes some power. Idle is rougher then I wanted but throttle response is instant, great low end torque, and real strong top end too. I really like it runs.
 
Sounds like a nice build - what's the deck height w/ the pistons you went with, and what CC heads did you go with? Were they shaved or anything?

I've never run a solid cam before - how do they compare on the street vs, a hydro (maint., driveability, etc.)?

what about the intake - was it port matched or modified at all?

Well, with hind sight being 20/20, I should have just gone with the flat tops and a zero deck...but because of my haste to get this thing together I ended up having to mill the heads a lot to get the compression I wanted (long story, but the short version is I'm trying to get my heap running before the Pinks All Out race @ ORP at the end of May).

I ended up with my heads measuring 57 cc's, and the pistons have about a 20 cc dish...my machine shop ordered these custom pistons and balanced the assembly just 2 days before I found out that my heads (after port work) were 66.5 cc's (which would have been about 11.2:1 compression)....GRRRRR....bad timing....oh well, that's why I had to mill my heads soooo much.

This will be my first solid roller, I just clearanced the block a few months back. From what I hear, setting the valves is only every once in a while (about twice a year according to my friends with solid cams).
 
Moper - in your last post... why would the engine have to be re-balanced internally?


Well, everything I do gets internally balanced anyway, but the 360 with forged pistons has to be. The crank wont be heavy enough, and I doubt even with the dampner and convertor weight in play that it will balance out without adding weight. There's not a real reason not to internally balance it. More power, longer life, smoother running, universal part fitment.
 
I would'nt call a 360 running 11.80's a slouch...my 360 run's 11.80-11.82,and has outrun a lot of cars with more motor,i'll have it down to 11.40's or better soon..as for making 500 h.p. my 416 stroker cranked out 520 h.p. and 500 lbs or tq. 11.0's @120 mph....

Would you call either of those engines "streetable"?:shock:

Maybe Im weird, but stick with me here ........500HP in a well sorted (electric pump, maxxed heads etc) 3400lb car should = high tens

- Im not sure if I know of to many high ten NA old school tech cars that you can drive 50 miles to the coast and back - in holiday traffic?

Guess it depends on "streetable"..but you may want to re-think your HP goal with this in mind?:|

On the solid roller engine that was mentioned - a $600 cam/lifter combo, custom pipes and Eddy heads should see most of your $5K all out.:silent:
 
Yes they are both very streetable i ran the 416 on the street all the time with 3.91's..the 360 would also be ok on the street except for the fact i'm running 4.30's with a spool right now..
 
as long as DanMc77 appreciates theres a difference in "streetability" between running a 500Hp car to the mall, and on a 100 mile power cruise - especially if its a flat tappet cam.....

Just my 2c
 
Streetability is in the eye of the beholder!!!! I drive my duster on the street WITH 4.56's but i dont drive 50 miles to the beach. I drive locally and on occasion make a estimite of a 20 mile round trip to a local cruise on a saturday night.

You build YOUR car the way YOU want it!!!! My dad has had a 69 notchback cuda and a 73 duster both with 440's with 650hp and we drove them on the street.. So,its up too you!! :)
 
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