Advice on budget a/body bracket car suspension?

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Heck if I know.I was gonna just post up and see if somebody close by would donate some. If it aint too far from me, I'll go get um and send um to you.
 
I've been flamed here many times over perfectly good advice I've given based on the old mopar manuals.Yes they are old as mentioned but info is still good! I have the chassis manual,engine manual etc as the info in these books is 2X what you get in any other. I dont think guys realize that most of the modern info is based on the old mopar stuff.
 
Do the same mods to your font suspension regardless of rear leaf set up you choose.

Urethane LCA bushings, GOOD shocks, Urethane UCA bushings (tubular arms w/heims are better), Heim joint strut rod, lightest T bars/most preload you can find, proper drop, alignment.

cab53112pk.jpg


A greater portion of work getting a car to hook is really in the front end.

The right converter makes a HUGE difference in 60's.
 
What a great bunch of mopar guys u are to help out with some torsion bars,.81 bars should be fine on this wouldn't they.Thanks all:-D
 
The good old Mopar community, even on the opposite side of the world, still willing to help a bloke out.
Hart warming isn't it O:) ya wont get that from the cheby wankers.
Anyone with a long enuff laith and carbide cutters can turn em down for ya. I think shipping would be cheaper tho.
 
i can hook my iron headed hemi with DOT rear tires, so i'd say caltracs work. what i did do to the front end that really helped

calvert 90/10's
RMS tubular uppers w/heims
RMS adjustable strut rods
and light weight front runners/wheel combo

pulled 1.43 60's @ norwalk last weekend

moparday10.jpg

IMG_4430.jpg
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
i can hook my iron headed hemi with DOT rear tires, so i'd say caltracs work. what i did do to the front end that really helped

calvert 90/10's
RMS tubular uppers w/heims
RMS adjustable strut rods
and light weight front runners/wheel combo

pulled 1.43 60's @ norwalk last weekend

moparday10.jpg
Click to expand...

I have been saying that for a while but there is some pretty firm opposition or I should say 4 link fan club?

I do like the huge amount of tweaking you can do to a 4 link.But it's not really budget minded unless you fab everything yourself.
 
Man this is all realy good info,68 hemi gts u are where i want to be,less hemi lol.what do adjustable struts help,never realy thought of those...i am feeling alot better about chooosing the right parts for my chassis set up already.thanks guys..
 
BBDODGE said:
Man this is all realy good info,68 hemi gts u are where i want to be,less hemi lol.what do adjustable struts help,never realy thought of those...i am feeling alot better about chooosing the right parts for my chassis set up already.thanks guys..
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the adjustable strut rods also have a heim witch will free up the front end movement and provide lots of travel. thats been the whole key for me to get my caltracs working. i'm so nose heavy that its hard to get that front end up. also your gonna either want to go to calvert spring perches or box your existing ones. no one told be this and i bent the hell out of mine, folded them right up. seems to be common with caltracs.

i think this is a interesting, look at the front end wheel geometry.

stock front suspension, best pass ever 10.47
oct09.jpg


tubular uppers and strut rods, see how the wheels are way straighter!! and it goes 10.30's now, same tune up
IMG_4430.jpg
 
I would second the adjustable strut rods, and I would not use urethane in the lower control arm. Also, I don't like the idea of a useless shock absorber. I've run pretty tired ones but they still dampened a little and it keeps the nose from bouncing around and keeps you straighter when you brake, and if you have to brake and steer away from something.
 
StrokerScamp said:
For a budget, run the SS springs, the snubber. In the front go with the slant torsion bars. for shocks, use standard heavy duty hydraulic shocks (NOT gas charged) in the rear. MP sells the 2" longer shocks for the SS springs. Drill holes on the front shocks and drain the fluid. It's all in the MP chassis manual. cars have been runnin in the 8s for bout 40 years using these methods. Just cause somethin is new, sporty and expensive dont mean it works any damned better. yall are bein duped. But **** it. what the hell do I know. I was racin back in the late 70s before I even had a driver's license. I don't know ****.
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I had a '71 Duster set up EXACTLY like you described right down the the drilled fron shocks... It went 11.07 @ 119mph with a 1.50 60 foot.
 
what I have is slant 6 with air/318 without air .850 bars, koni adjustable shocks and I mean 1967 vintage ball joints/bushings, no sway bar, had to limit the front end travel to 1 inch and put 70% preload on the front axles to keep from doing crazy massive wheelstands, 1/2 inch thick motor plate, 1/8th inch mid plate, 14 point cage welded to the frame not the body, frame connectors, Dana 60 with ladder bars and koni coil overs, this car DOES NOT flex the least little bit, the suspension does all the work. It will hook the same everytime from the first time trial to the final round and has done so on many occasions, even with my wife racing it, it was deadly consistant week after week (quit racing putting back on street now). It goes down the track straight as a string, no hands needed on the steering wheel.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=178296&stc=1&d=1285360529
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=178297&stc=1&d=1285360606
 
Mopar-Man said:
I had a '71 Duster set up EXACTLY like you described right down the the drilled fron shocks... It went 11.07 @ 119mph with a 1.50 60 foot.
Click to expand...

Works good don't it? I bet that car left like a ***** in church. That MP manual ain't as dated as people think it is.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
the adjustable strut rods also have a heim witch will free up the front end movement and provide lots of travel. thats been the whole key for me to get my caltracs working. i'm so nose heavy that its hard to get that front end up. also your gonna either want to go to calvert spring perches or box your existing ones. no one told be this and i bent the hell out of mine, folded them right up. seems to be common with caltracs.

i think this is a interesting, look at the front end wheel geometry.

stock front suspension, best pass ever 10.47
oct09.jpg


tubular uppers and strut rods, see how the wheels are way straighter!! and it goes 10.30's now, same tune up
IMG_4430.jpg
Click to expand...

Awesome setup! but it looks cooler with the wheels outta whack. LMAO
 
StrokerScamp said:
Awesome setup! but it looks cooler with the wheels outta whack. LMAO
Click to expand...

yea its also alot more boring to drive, tends to go straighter now!! :dontknow::D

i but the stick back in monday now that the car is working good though, that livened things back up :cheers:
 
StrokerScamp said:
Larry Shepard has it down pat. I dont get it that people insist on ignoring the MP manuals.
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Im agree 100%, The Mopar Chassis manual is a wealth of info. In 1994 I built a 71 446 Scamp using info out of this book. SS springs,29x11.5x15 slicks, 4.88 8 3/4, 446/906 BB w/ 1050 dominator, 727 torqueflite with the J converter. I set the car up with .830 torsion bars 90/10 front shocks. Car ran 6.40's all day long, went straight as an arrow and ran it 4 seasons. 1.40 60'. This was without a dout the easiest, most fun, lowest maintainence car I ever raced. Then I had to go faster! You don't have to reinvent the wheel to build a low cost fun race car. Buy the Mopar chassis manual, read it, use it and build a solid, fun bracket car!
 
You don't even need ss springs or cal tracs to hook up in an a-body..my '70 duster with the 416 60' in the 1.40's with nothing more them then h.d. springs(rear clamps removed) pinion snubber and "cheap" Summit drag shocks 90/10 front 50/50 rear....
 
stroked 340 said:
You don't even need ss springs or cal tracs to hook up in an a-body..my '70 duster with the 416 60' in the 1.40's with nothing more them then h.d. springs(rear clamps removed) pinion snubber and "cheap" Summit drag shocks 90/10 front 50/50 rear....
Click to expand...

You see great minds think alike!
 
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