Air shocks

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indie_cg

indie_cg

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I was given a brand new set of air shocks to replace the leaky ones on my 74 duster. The new shocks have a metal bar type mount with two holes in it on one end (made to fit GM i believe) that looks like its just stuck in there.The shocks look like they would work if i can remove that mount piece. Can i just twist that out without hurting the shock ?
 
Give'em to a GM guy and just get replacement shocks at the auto store.
 
For my car, there's a little spacer and sleeved nut they use for the air shocks or coil covered shocks to move it out further. Keeps it from rubbing because the shocks are bigger in diameter.
 
indie_cg said:
I was given a brand new set of air shocks to replace the leaky ones on my 74 duster. The new shocks have a metal bar type mount with two holes in it on one end (made to fit GM i believe) that looks like its just stuck in there.The shocks look like they would work if i can remove that mount piece. Can i just twist that out without hurting the shock ?
Click to expand...

Can't picture what you're talking about...got any pics of the problem area?
 
Sure, no reason why not. You may or may not need to change the grommets in the top ring. BUT make darn sure you check BOTH extended and collapsed length. You want the stroke about the same, and want to make absolutely sure that the shock does not "bottom out" IE too long.
 
67Dart273 said:
Sure, no reason why not. You may or may not need to change the grommets in the top ring. BUT make darn sure you check BOTH extended and collapsed length. You want the stroke about the same, and want to make absolutely sure that the shock does not "bottom out" IE too long.
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X2 on what he said Go for it. I did the samething years back. Took them off my Nova and put them on an A-body. I heat the one side of the piece of metal up with the 2 holes . once hot I puule the hot end through it twisted right out. A little smoky but it stopped once I threw them in a can of water. Try not to heat the ring on the shock itself. Good luck Steve
 
I have the correct set in the garage with 1800 miles on them that are yours for the asking just pay for the ride.
 
Do not run air shocks on your A body. This is a well documented no no.
 
I agree on not running air shocks. It is a bit hard on the upper mounts, and they really don't allow the suspension to work as designed, they are a cheap fix at best.
 
Why a no no? I've ran them for many years on many cars, never broke a shock mount. I don't know where some of this bad info comes from now days. About the only precaution you need to take is running the air lines away from the tailpipes and take your time in securing the lines.
 
I ran air shocks on my 70 440-6 car, they were on it when I bought it from my friend and OO at about 35K, and were on it when I sold it, although they had been replaced. I sold the car with 150K on the chassis, and nothing had ever been damaged. I did NOT use them to jack the thing up much, mostly for heavy loads in the trunk.

Since a B is a lot heavier than an A, it stands to reason that the stress might be more

The car, around 1974 or so, n' ya, don't I wish I could afford one now!!!

81sruds.jpg
 
lou3500 said:
Enlighten us on why not to use these, please.
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Sure,
GM and Ford leaf springs are symmetrical,centering the rear axle between the front and rear spring eyes. Chrysler engineers moved the axle mount towards the front of the spring. This shortens the length of the front segment of the spring,which increases stiffness and minimizes the effect of spring wrap up.

To simplify, GM,Ford traction bars.
Mopars pinion snubber,SS springs.
 
67Dart273 said:
I ran air shocks on my 70 440-6 car, they were on it when I bought it from my friend and OO at about 35K, and were on it when I sold it, although they had been replaced. I sold the car with 150K on the chassis, and nothing had ever been damaged. I did NOT use them to jack the thing up much, mostly for heavy loads in the trunk.

Since a B is a lot heavier than an A, it stands to reason that the stress might be more

The car, around 1974 or so, n' ya, don't I wish I could afford one now!!!

81sruds.jpg
Click to expand...


By using an air shock,what you are doing is turning the upper shock mount into a load-bearing portion of the suspension.Something it was never designed to do.
Yes,folks have gotten away with it,but that don't mean it's right. I think it's safe to say that there are stories out there of upper shock mounts ripped out do to air shocks.

Air shocks are for towing or for "The Look".
A true performance shock is a Much better choice.
 
Had 002 and 003 SS springs on my 71 BB Scamp drag car. Don't thing they will wrap? Both of my CE shocks were bent in bad where the housing hit them when the car would launch. Traction bars or pinion snubber, accomplish the same thing.
 
Well I get that Mopar designed their springs differently but on some cars the pinion snubber will never touch as in my case the snubber is way far away from the place designed for it to hit so it's useless [and my car has been lowered] and I'm not putting any more power than stock thru the rear my only real interest is the 60's look of them. If they don't damage anything then I see no problem having them on it. Or am I missing something [I'm not a purest] I just have a certain look I'm going for.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Do not run air shocks on your A body. This is a well documented no no.
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Balderdash ...

Dual inlet air shocks, when used correctly, compliment stock or even SS springs, and the pinion snubber.. They are a quick, easy way to fine tune the rear suspension to pre-load and adjust,, similar to Nascar jacking bolts, or changing tire pressure 1/2 a pound.. AND if you happen to have heavy friends, can be adjusted to clear the pinion snubber..

You don't have to run them with a million pounds in 'em,.. some do,, but you don't have to.

I run mine at about 20 lbs. daily, just enuff to keep air in them, -- when I race, I jack the driver's up about 5 lbs. (to help clear the slicks), and I put 10 to 15 lbs. on the right side,, set line loc, and lay a little patch, then check my tire pattern,, and adjust air as nec..
 
I had air shocks at one time. Too stiff. The coil shocks are much better. They have a good ride and allow give when adding more weight.
 
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