Almost have the drum brakes done but have a question.

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Order of parts at top center
T shaped piece with hole that keeps the shoes in place.
Cable end with its flat side toward that T shaped piece.
Longer yellow spring ( the cable guide should have a tiny neck to center it in the hole.
Hold it in place with one hand while attacheing the spring on the top post.
Then the shorter upper return spring.
If the pin is filled the yellow spring will hold the cable guide flat against the shoe.
One wouldn't think the tiny neck on the cable guide is important but...
If it fails the guide drops which lets the adjust paw drop.
A hardened steel thrust washer in the free end of the adjuster is just as important as any other tiny member of the assembly.
A dab of lithium grease there is OK but dont apply grease to the adjusters threaded parts.
When its all correct you would be able to put 4 fingers on the shoe lining ( about 4:00 postion ) pull the cable toward 5:00 with your thumb and operate the adjuster.
 
ur missing the tab that holds the brakes to the stud on the top center

Found one in my orphan nuts and bolts jar..I have another washer about the same thickness and hole size I can make another.

Strut bar and anti rattle spring are not right

Will send them back..prefer to have the right parts.

adjuster stamped with a L (driver side) or R (passenger side) so it's easy to check

Looked at the repops..no markings. looked at a set that came with the car, no markings either. So when you turn the unit clockwise oriented to the front, should the adjusters expand or contract.

Are there considered 10 in drum brakes ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
RedFish said:
Order of parts at top center
T shaped piece with hole that keeps the shoes in place.
Cable end with its flat side toward that T shaped piece.
Longer yellow spring ( the cable guide should have a tiny neck to center it in the hole.
Hold it in place with one hand while attacheing the spring on the top post.
Then the shorter upper return spring.
If the pin is filled the yellow spring will hold the cable guide flat against the shoe.
One wouldn't think the tiny neck on the cable guide is important but...
If it fails the guide drops which lets the adjust paw drop.
A hardened steel thrust washer in the free end of the adjuster is just as important as any other tiny member of the assembly.
A dab of lithium grease there is OK but dont apply grease to the adjusters threaded parts.
When its all correct you would be able to put 4 fingers on the shoe lining ( about 4:00 postion ) pull the cable toward 5:00 with your thumb and operate the adjuster.
Click to expand...

I have printed this out. Thank-you. It helps.

ian.
 
grassy said:
Just when I think I got it :)


Okla,

It also looks like you are missing the bottom pin lock on the shoe hold down pins on both sides. The spring is supposed to be sandwiched. It should be pin lock, spring and pin lock.

Could you circle that in one of the pics.
Click to expand...

There should be a bottom just like the top that sandwiches the purple spring. If it is there I can't see it.
 

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The round cap that goes underneath the hold down spring is one piece that isn't so critical.
Some aftermarket hardware kits include 4 total, all 4 identical, others provide only the 2 uppers with key hole. Then there are those OEM lowers that had a round hole instead of a key hole.
 
I went back and looked at my old front drum and noticed them and included them in my new build.

I was able to find the proper parking brake hardware so here is a new picture. I also looked at the old star adjuster..no left and right but it looked better that the new piece so I have incorporated in the new build.

I have positioned it so when I poke at it from the outside, it turns clockwise and expands.

How is this ?

8116-X3.jpg
 
If it expands in reverse, then it is correct. Seems like they always go on the rear shoe. and expand up, from the lever.
 
All my books in shop; getting senile. Seems like a left and right. They have to pull up.
 
I wish the re pops mirrored the original.

How would I test if it expands in reverse ?

What I was thinking that when the mechanic adjusts the brakes, they open the panel and poke the star adjuster with a flat head. I am thinking that they would poke from the bottom.

the screw section expands towards the front..

Oh, are the rubbers for the parking brake cable available through normal channels or do I have to go to a specialist ?

Thanks
ian.
 
I'm thinking right and left side. The old manuals were. Now after 2 beers, seem to remember converting 69 to auto, had to ask for r and left. Local parts store, they have the plugs for the holes.
 
Thanks...the beers sound like a good idea. It was a long weekend.

Will be at NAPA tomorrow morning.

Thanks
ian.
 
That most recient pic looks pretty much correct. I tryed to explaint before how to recreate the adjust motion with your hand. The paw picks the wheel for bottom up to expand the adjuster . From behind you would pick from top down with your tool. Clockwise /counter clockwise gets confusing for all of us whe nwe're looking at the clocks profile.
 
Ian, you still need to get that U clip on better. It should be on to where it is under three sides of the stud and then bend the ends in a bit to where it can't fall off.
 

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Diagonal pliers are my tool of choice for the horse shoe clip.
Fords horse shoe clip has handy little ears near the ends.
We can memic those with a little file in about a minute.
The ultimate retouch is to drill a tiny hole near each end. then snap ring pliers will both open and close them. :)
 
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