Aluminum heads whos the best?

-
Burntorange70 said:
Just did some looking. Also found one called a W9. Don't think they are the heads you are looking for. Says they require R-4 blocks and specialty valve gear.


So you got Eddy's, Brodix, Indy.

Mopar was making a head called a Commando. Don't know they they still offer it though.
Click to expand...

p7 is what I have heard of, but maybe they did a newer 9 version.

those heas need diff race block and a whole lot of finish machine work just to run.

The big port commando's look nice, but again need work and lots of porting to get the #'s.

If it is the stem height, rockers or pushrod holes, just fix the heads he has.
 
If I was going to spend that aftermarket kind of money, I definitely would be considering the future and wether the head in question can support the kind of power.

Stay away from middle of the road heads, they end up becoming money pits to get the big #'s, then when you go to sell them for something else...they are hard to sell fully worked & blown out because they've been pushed already and ported by ??, so the potential buyer may think or asume...
 
I thought you said you already have Comp Cam Pro Magnum rockers and Dougs headers. If you already have those parts get some closed chamber edelbrocks (they call them 360 version, not the 340 version) and open up the push rods holes. That is what I run with my hydraulic roller cam and they work well. Oh, and my car now sits 1/4 higher in the front due to the lighter heads -). Much nicer to drive with the manual steering too.
 
With this compression calculator:
Bore=4.070"
Stroke=3.310"
Head vol=63cc (eddy heads)
Dome=0cc
deck=0cc
Gasket=.040"
ratio=10.88:1
change just head vol to=60cc (MP commando)
ratio=11.3:1
 
Do these bare heads come with guides and the hardend valve seat? The springs, retainers, and valve aren't the problem. I'll just use the stuff I have in my x-heads
 
1970Duster said:
Do these bare heads come with guides and the hardend valve seat? The springs, retainers, and valve aren't the problem. I'll just use the stuff I have in my x-heads
Click to expand...


Buy the edelbrocks...cheaper..and better performance...the commando heads are not very good in stock form....

the large port commmando which are no longer made...are good heads once they worked over..and they use w2 valve gear..non cheap...

besides..the eddies installed height for springs are higher ..and use 11/32 guides and valve stems...

the edelbrock is just a better head then the standard commnado head.
 
70aarcuda said:
Buy the edelbrocks...cheaper..and better performance...the commando heads are not very good in stock form....

the large port commmando which are no longer made...are good heads once they worked over..and they use w2 valve gear..non cheap...

besides..the eddies installed height for springs are higher ..and use 11/32 guides and valve stems...

the edelbrock is just a better head then the standard commnado head.
Click to expand...

Is the large port commando the one that has the exhaust ports raised that no headers are made for? One of those MP Commando head sometime seal over the port, sometimes they don't.

When those MP heads were developed, MP was told by one of their biggest dealers that headers wouldn't match. MP's response, "then they'll have to make new headers for them".... Brilliant.
 
other then those commando heads are they're any other 60 cc heads?
 
Not reasonably priced.

I'm not so sure at the raised port issue with the BP Comando heads.
The standard comando is a revised stock head with the abilty to use standard or Magnum hardware I beileve.
 
70aarcuda said:
Buy the edelbrocks...cheaper..and better performance...the commando heads are not very good in stock form....

the large port commmando which are no longer made...are good heads once they worked over..and they use w2 valve gear..non cheap...

besides..the eddies installed height for springs are higher ..and use 11/32 guides and valve stems...

the edelbrock is just a better head then the standard commnado head.
Click to expand...



Until you find out the stem heights aren't jiving and the geometry is crap.
Then the guides are too tight, push rod holes can be off, valve job leaves some to be desired.

I see a potential $500 after machining/fixing and then cleaning, now you might end up with a $2000 set of middle of the road heads.#-o
Or they might make it and run ootb, hit and miss.

The commando heads flow with or more than the edelbrocks, in the 250-265 range on the intake side.
 
TurdFerguson said:
Until you find out the stem heights aren't jiving and the geometry is crap.
Then the guides are too tight, push rod holes can be off, valve job leaves some to be desired.
Click to expand...

Guess i must have got lucky my Edelbrocks had NONE of those issues:thumblef::thumblef:
 
TurdFerguson said:
Until you find out the stem heights aren't jiving and the geometry is crap.
Then the guides are too tight, push rod holes can be off, valve job leaves some to be desired.

I see a potential $500 after machining/fixing and then cleaning, now you might end up with a $2000 set of middle of the road heads.#-o
Or they might make it and run ootb, hit and miss.

The commando heads flow with or more than the edelbrocks, in the 250-265 range on the intake side.
Click to expand...

stroked 340 said:
Guess i must have got lucky my Edelbrocks had NONE of those issues:thumblef::thumblef:
Click to expand...

Good deal.
Some do have issues though.
 
My local machine shop quoted me a price of $250 to got over the Edelbrock valve job and value stems and some bowl blending. Every aftermarket heads needs to be looked over before installing but quality wise the Edelbrocks are some of the best out there.
 
No, 340, yours were as bad as the rest. Ryan does a valve job and fixes them when he sells them.
While I agree the RPM heads as delivered are not something i want to use, it adds a small amount of cash overall to get them very nice. Most are replaceing the springs so they are coming apart anyway, and it gives me the chance to set chamber size and gasket match. $500 more is about right, but Commando heads are much worse in terms of quality control and as noted, some require the fancy rockers and still have problems. I wouldnt run anything MP unless it's new un-cut W5s that may have casting issues to fix, or the W2 heads which seem to be immune from the really bad issues. Otherwise, go with indy. I wish the RHS heads would be cast from aluminum and come bare with no pushrod holes.
 
moper said:
No, 340, yours were as bad as the rest. Ryan does a valve job and fixes them when he sells them.
While I agree the RPM heads as delivered are not something i want to use, it adds a small amount of cash overall to get them very nice. Most are replaceing the springs so they are coming apart anyway, and it gives me the chance to set chamber size and gasket match. $500 more is about right, but Commando heads are much worse in terms of quality control and as noted, some require the fancy rockers and still have problems. I wouldnt run anything MP unless it's new un-cut W5s that may have casting issues to fix, or the W2 heads which seem to be immune from the really bad issues. Otherwise, go with indy. I wish the RHS heads would be cast from aluminum and come bare with no pushrod holes.
Click to expand...

Moper...Ryan didn't do my heads...but hopefully i'll be sending them to him for some upgrades..
 
Run a Hyd roller with ede's on a 59* SB and YOU WILL have issues just like this. Be nice if edelbrock would oval the PR holes. It sucks having to clearance them, especially after an engine is already buttoned up.

Run a flat tappet and there are usually no issues with PR clearance.

Not tough to understand.
 
First to the guys that made offers on the Eddy's heads please pm me you number so we can talk.

Let me know what you guy are feeling on these, Thanks.
Now here is what I'm looking at: (I'm not saying I'm getting them from here just the site had both choices up and easy compare)

E: Prep
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...dW0=&level3=RWRlbGJyb2NrIFJQTQ==&partid=22132

E: CNC
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...dW0=&level3=RWRlbGJyb2NrIFJQTQ==&partid=22211

I: Rectangle Ports (seem only for engines with 400+ cubes, mine isn't or am I reading this wrong)
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...el2=QWx1bWludW0=&level3=SW5keQ==&partid=23689

I: Oval Ports (special intake only?)
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...el2=QWx1bWludW0=&level3=SW5keQ==&partid=23692
 
The first one is about what most decent performance shops do during the "check and correct" bit. Overall it's not a bad price if you have no capable local shop. The "oval port" are an Indy product and require special valve train, intakes, and headers. Not worth it for what you're doing IMO. The heads are a little more. The special required parts will add another thousand or more pretty easy to get them up and running. All you really need are a base unported set of RPMs. Also bear in mind you need to run the FelPro Performance head gaskets with any aluminum heads.
 
moper said:
The first one is about what most decent performance shops do during the "check and correct" bit. Overall it's not a bad price if you have no capable local shop. The "oval port" are an Indy product and require special valve train, intakes, and headers. Not worth it for what you're doing IMO. The heads are a little more. The special required parts will add another thousand or more pretty easy to get them up and running. All you really need are a base unported set of RPMs. Also bear in mind you need to run the FelPro Performance head gaskets with any aluminum heads.
Click to expand...
Already got my new head gaskets. http://www.cometic.com/domesticauto.aspx
Yeah I was thinking the Indys would be over kill for my app. but was thinking that if I want to step up power later on the CNC eddys would handle it. But the more I think about it the Dougs header might be a limiting factor for those (CNC) but would be perfect for the prepped version.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top