So, 74 Duster not starting with the key, but was able to use a remote starter switch and she would start. Checking over wiring under the Dash. I was inspecting the Amp Meter connections, and decided to clean them. The negative nut came right off. Positive has some corrosion and is stuck ) hit it with a little spray, but it turned the whole stud and the nut is frozen on there. I'll keep working on that. My question is, will the positive lead being a little rusty and frozen on there be enough to cause starting problems?
Amp Meter connections
- Thread starter TF360
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
There is no positive or negative on the ammeter. It’s wired in series and both connections are positive. ALL power to the inside of the car runs through the ammeter first so yes everything inside “could” be affected by the corrosion there. Either way it sounds like you found something that needs to be fixed so you may as well start there. If the ammeter is junk (post just spins) eliminate it and just bolt the two eyelets together and seal it up with tape, shrink tube, etc.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
The first inch or two of the red input seems to have been hot at least a few times.
Yea, I agree. I couldn't get my hangs in there or a wrench, so the eyelet did turn (with the stud-frozen) over to the negative side. Hopefully I didn't ruin it.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
fixed
On the ones I've seen and seen posted pics of, the stud is a press fit.
If the stud turned, then its loose. It must be fixed or replaced. A loose connection is a poor connection and having a loose connection on the battery feed/charge wire is only going to get worse.
I agree that at least in the photo, the red wire looks to have heat damage. That's from too much current for too long, and or corrosion of the wire.
I would also look at the battery and alternator feed connections at the bulkhead, as well as the battery feed connections on both ends of the fusible link and at the starter relay. Likely one or more of them will show signs of heat damage if there was too much current for the wire and terminals.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Really have to disconnect the battery before putting wrenches, rings, or any othe metal where car battery power may be found. Disconnect the battery negative post, then the positive post.
If your dash looks like this one, then there is a second nut against the panel which a thin wrench like an ignition wrench can slip onto.
All wiring that is connected to the battery positive is hot even with the key off.
The ammeter needle deflects when electrons are moving past it. Electrically its just metal plate with two studs pressed in.
If your dash looks like this one, then there is a second nut against the panel which a thin wrench like an ignition wrench can slip onto.
All wiring that is connected to the battery positive is hot even with the key off.
The ammeter needle deflects when electrons are moving past it. Electrically its just metal plate with two studs pressed in.
At this point, it would be advisable to disassemble the cluster and examine the ammeter.
Also check ignition switch wiring harness where it plugs into the under dash wiring harness connector. This is a common problem area.
Also check ignition switch wiring harness where it plugs into the under dash wiring harness connector. This is a common problem area.
The ammeter problems will not likely cause your starting problem, or the car would not run. Very little will operated if the ammeter circuit is open. No headlights, no dome lights, nothing. But the starter does not run through the ammeter. The only part of the starter circuit that runs through the ammeter, is the yellow "start" wire which engages the start relay. The relay is supplied power to it's contacts direct from the battery, and switches that battery power to the built in starter solenoid
Again, if the ammeter circuit is open, the car would not run.
Again, if the ammeter circuit is open, the car would not run.
So, I got it to fire and run using the Remote Switch, but now it shut down after some surging. It did run ok for a little while. It won't start with the key, but it did start a couple times with the key a few weeks ago. I'm going to look closer and pull the Dash out. Oh no Headlights or Tail Lights.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
After you fix the ammeter connections you’re likely going to be in to the bulkhead connector. That’s the next likely “melty” spot.
If the battery side stud is turning in that pile of junk, you need to take the gauge apart and fix or replace it.
If the connection is spotty on that side of the gauge, when engine is off it supplies energy to run everything. Poor connection, insufficient load carrying capabilities, click when hitting start, no headlights, etc.
All those items should fire off no problem.
Jumper the ammeter and see if the headlight issue resolves. If it does, you know where the break in your system is located. It's not unheard of and a member here had a car with the same issue. Ammeter was busted and car wouldn't start. Bypassed, and it starts and runs...
If the connection is spotty on that side of the gauge, when engine is off it supplies energy to run everything. Poor connection, insufficient load carrying capabilities, click when hitting start, no headlights, etc.
All those items should fire off no problem.
Jumper the ammeter and see if the headlight issue resolves. If it does, you know where the break in your system is located. It's not unheard of and a member here had a car with the same issue. Ammeter was busted and car wouldn't start. Bypassed, and it starts and runs...
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
As I recall this is not the first time this car has had problems with starting.
My advice is to switch your approach to solving the problem(s).
As long as the ammeter is working, pay attention to what it is showing.
That said, the approach I am suggesting is not to continue with seeing if it will start.
One approach would be to check for bad connections by measuring voltage drop under known loads.
However I think we know enough at this point to say its probably better to look at the connections and wires.
Disconnect the battery, then check each and every connection point and terminal along the battery feed to the main splice. The main splice is probably fine. Nothing is pointing to a failure there so no need to mess with that.
Then do the same for the alternator feed to the main splice.
After that I would look at the connector on the steering column - especially the cavity with the power feed (wire J1) to the key switch.
Finally on the bulkhead connectors and the engine connectors look at the critical circuits. (J2) (J3) in particular.
Your '74 has the added joy (not) of the seat belt interlock, but that really shouldn't effect what has to be done.
If you really want to measure voltage drops that's fine but I really think that can be done as a check afterwords.
If you haven't removed terminals from connectors yet., there's some decent posts and threads about that as well as cleaning.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Post pictures and people here will walk you through it.
Borrowing these from other posts etc.
Look at the connectors. See if there is heat damage, loose wire crimps etc.
then follow the A1 wire to the starter relay junction.
From there to the fusible link.
The link in '74 has a round connector on one side and the other side goes into the bulkhead multi-connector.
Example of really damaged connection at bulkhead connector
Removing the connector engine side. question on the main harness plug on firewall
One of a couple discussions on cleaning here:
Cleaning bulkhead connectors
Examples of Engine connectors. These are not installed correctly. They should be further back toward the firewall.
To remove the flat male terminals from a housing push the barb in and gently push out
To remove the females, slip[ a tool in (flattend cotter pin or whatever) and depress the barb.
Borrowing these from other posts etc.
Look at the connectors. See if there is heat damage, loose wire crimps etc.
then follow the A1 wire to the starter relay junction.
From there to the fusible link.
The link in '74 has a round connector on one side and the other side goes into the bulkhead multi-connector.
Example of really damaged connection at bulkhead connector
Removing the connector engine side. question on the main harness plug on firewall
One of a couple discussions on cleaning here:
Cleaning bulkhead connectors
Examples of Engine connectors. These are not installed correctly. They should be further back toward the firewall.
To remove the flat male terminals from a housing push the barb in and gently push out
To remove the females, slip[ a tool in (flattend cotter pin or whatever) and depress the barb.
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
A lot of people bypass the ammeter as said by connecting the red and black together. Then you could add a voltage gauge. Unless your dead set on keeping it stock.
WHAT is that bare cut red wire?
Need a better photo of the question connector, what is it's layout and wire colors
DO YOU HAVE a 74 manual. If not I can MAIL you one but that is the only way, as it's too large to up/ download. Send me a PM/ "conversation."
In the back of the manual past the wiring diagrams are layouts of the connectors, if they are OEM and not added, of course.
Is this the connector?
Need a better photo of the question connector, what is it's layout and wire colors
DO YOU HAVE a 74 manual. If not I can MAIL you one but that is the only way, as it's too large to up/ download. Send me a PM/ "conversation."
In the back of the manual past the wiring diagrams are layouts of the connectors, if they are OEM and not added, of course.
Is this the connector?
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Actually, "if you insist" and IF you can solder/ silver braze, you could fix that ammeter. That would involve EG, dremel tool, etc, to get the stud(s) cut loose, get the ammeter apart out of the cluster, and then get some (preferably) brass or steel machine screws, and then (minimally) soft solder the new studs to the brass guts using flux and electronic oriented, such as rosin core lead based solder, or silver braze them in if you know how
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