Another 273 commando build .. This one will be a "BEAST"

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If you absolutely crave a high-powered 273, then just turbocharge it.

The 273 is a great engine for an early-A, or a grocery-getter; or in a Second gen, a touring engine .
There is a rule of thumb that almost everyone acknowledges, and it goes like this;
For street performance, you need one cubic inch for every 10 pounds of ready-to run car, with you in it. So
a 273 is good for 2730 pounds including driver
a 340 is good for 3400 with driver, and
a 360 is good for 3600 with driver
And the reason for this is because of the 1 hp per cubic inch guideline. This level is easy to build to, and is low-maintenance, and it makes a durable engine.
So if you have a 3600# car(with driver);
and you build a 273 to 360 hp,(to do what a 360 scoffs at, at 1.0 hp/cube) , yur 273 will be at ~1.32 hp per cube, and has really become waaay more race than street.(see note 1).
It will be a "beast" alrightee. It will require a hi-stall TC and 4series gears and the best gas you can find, and will probably require some form of anti-knock additives.
Without the stall/gears, she will be a beast in every sense, just not the kind of beast you want; rather a cow, and a pig, and a lazy dog.
And with the Stall/gears, she will finally wake up, but she'll be a city car, and still just 1.5 gears (see note 2) to 60mph. And you will have to know all the places to find premium-grade fuel.
So, when it comes to a 3600-loaded street car, the 273 is waaaay out of it's element. If you make a "beast" out of it, it will have beastly manners, and it will drink fuel, like a beast. The beastliness will soon make it a weekends only bomber, and eventually, it will spend maybe very few hours a year actually driving.
For a performance street application, I just cannot understand the infatuation with a 273. It's a two-seventy-three.

note 1
What you may not realize, is that to make power with a small engine, requires rpm; cuz that's how the formula works;
torque times rpm/5250= horsepower.
And when you increase the engine's operating rpm, by up-camming it, you always trade away some low rpm torque to get that hi-rpm power. So, you end up with an engine that is soft in the sub-3500rpm zone where 95% of your driving is likely to be.

Note 2
To hit 60mph with say 27" tires,requires a gear ratio of 7.38 to hit it at ~5500 .
With a standard TF, with gears of 2.45-1.45-1.00, and say 10% slip in the TC, this will require second gear and ~4.56s, for 60=5420.
Are you gonna run 4.56s?
For peak power at or near 5400, that 273 will be a dog below 3000,maybe even closer to 3500, so you are gonna need a stall in that zone.
Are you gonna run a 3500TC?
Highly unlikely that you will run 4.56s cuz 65=3680@zero-slip, maybe up to 200 more with that 3500TC. So really, your cruise speed is down to 50= about 3000, and now the 3500 is cooking the trans oil.
So better to get a 3000TC.
But on the 1-2 shift, the Rs will fall from 5400 to 3200, and your engine is in the dog-zone; She really wants that 3500.
This is what yur up against with a 273.

But more likely is that you will run 3.91s (or less).
First gear will get you about 46mph@5800. At the 1-2 shift, the Rs will drop to ~3400
Then, second gear will get you,60=4230@zero-slip, perhaps 4650@10%slip,on your tach, and so for RapidTransit, your engine is gonna need to making some power there.
If you have built your 273 to be a "beast", then 4650 is barely above peak torque. And the power won't peak until say 5400@73mph.......
So like I said, she's a 1.5 gears to 60mph, car.
I interpret that as slow, because the engine is only going thru the power-peak once, then dropping into the soft zone, before struggling back up the power curve..... half way, and then your zero to sixty time-trial is done.
If that's what you want, then have at it.
And we haven't even talked about the engine-build required, to powerpeak at 5400.

So for this application; it doesn't matter what engine you install, they are all governed by the same 60mph@5500, requires a 7.38 gear ratio.

So lets flip it around;
If 3.91s is all you want to run, then with 27s and a regular TF trans then
60=4650@10% slip. And so, for RapidTransit to 60mph, you want to pass thru the power peak twice and end at say 4900. So, still for RapidTransit, the engine has to be build to that spec, and sooooo the 273 cannot possibly be Rapid, unless supercharged. Whereas a 360 might still be spinning the tires.
And if 3.23s is all you want to run, well you see how this is going, right?
 
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Boost on a 10.5 compression engine will be a great way to destroy the pistons, head gaskets, and possibly the whole engine.
I do have another 273 .030 over with the low compression flat top 4 relief pistons all cleaned up and waiting to rebuild also for a procharger unit.
 
So here is the wild card.
If you are serious about a normally aspirated 273;
IMO, this will require; a solid lifter, high compression, specialty build; and a 5-speed manual trans with overdrive, and geared so you can hit no more than 70mph in THIRD gear, at a fair bit past the power peak, which points to specialty heads.

Here is a trans that could work;the NV 3500 with ratios of
3.49-2.14-1.38-1.00-.73od
With this one you can hit 70@5160, in third with 4.30s, and still cruise 65=2530.

Another is; the AX-15 with ratios of
3.83-2.33-1.44-1.00-.79od
With this you can hit 70@5140, in third gear with 4.10s, and still cruise 65=2620.

With either;
Having passed thru the power peak twice, and ending at 60=4400. You won't need much of a cam to satisfy that.
 
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I do have another 273 .030 over with the low compression flat top 4 relief pistons all cleaned up and waiting to rebuild also for a procharger unit.
also with that build , 675 open chamber heads for use with a procharger unit .
 
Just found this thread and I'm following along. I was wondering of Evaporust would have been an option for rust removal to help getting the pistons out?
when I removed the rings , it's the aluminum corosion that held the rings in the lands . that is what packed the rings in the lands. you couldn't see "Rust" per say .
 
Thats different, the Barracuda in the video looks like it has valence cutouts on both sides, yet the tail pipes are outboard of the cutouts.
 
Thats different, the Barracuda in the video looks like it has valence cutouts on both sides, yet the tail pipes are outboard of the cutouts.
rear 65 formula S barracuda . previous owner cut out the pass side valence. tail pipes are "FAKERS" nothing going thru them. So the police see it has full exhaust . lol
 
Heat of combustion is what powers your flywheel. It's been published that, of all the energy in the fuel, ~1/3 of it goes into the cooling system, and ~1/3 goes into the exhaust, leaving just ~1/3 for the flywheel. The hotter you can successfully run your combo, the more potential it has to make power. Your upper limit is the oil temperature.
Everything we do to our hotrod engines is an effort to create more heat in the chamber,to produce a stronger push on the crank. But only ~1/3 of it gets there. So we have to figure out ways to keep the energy out of the oil , and out of the cooling system, and out of the exhaust, without melting the darn thing.
Modern manufacturers seem to have figured it out;
the 2.4 naturally aspirated 4-banger in my Orlando is rated at 167Net hp at 6700. That's probably pushing over 200 gross. Not long ago 318LAs could barely muster 180crank, and 318s are over double the size of a 2.4 which is ~146 cubes! That's pretty impressive. One of the ways the Orlando does that is with 220psi cranking cylinder pressure. That's heat,man! That's a lotta heat.
Another way is by running the engine pretty hot, she hovers around 220 most of the time.
And the thing is over 3800 pounds with me and the wife in it, yet I have never thought she was under-powered. But I guess the 6-speed auto has something to do with that,lol.
Heat really is your friend, or better I should say CAN be your friend. .In the beginning I had too much. I had to back up and start over with looser pistons and bigger ring gaps. Then I had to sneak up on it.The reward was 93mph in the Eighth, which the Wallace calculator translates to 433hp,..... from a 367 cube Daily Driver. I run her at just 207*F.
 
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This is from Fbo asking them if they had the shim gaskets for 273 bore .......... he said quote :

'Yes, of course. We need the finished bore size and thickness you require.


They are available in .027 to .140 thickness in about .005 increments.

Starting at $69.00 each plus shipping."


Thank You

Don & Dana


FBO Ignition Systems Since 1982

541-942-5920 www.4secondsflat.com

FBO Ignition Modules & Custom Components-Pertronix Ignition Products-Daytona Sensors Engine Management-Distributor Recurves-Repairs-Rebuilding- Modifications
 
This is from Fbo asking them if they had the shim gaskets for 273 bore .......... he said quote :

'Yes, of course. We need the finished bore size and thickness you require.


They are available in .027 to .140 thickness in about .005 increments.

Starting at $69.00 each plus shipping."


Thank You

Don & Dana


FBO Ignition Systems Since 1982

541-942-5920 www.4secondsflat.com

FBO Ignition Modules & Custom Components-Pertronix Ignition Products-Daytona Sensors Engine Management-Distributor Recurves-Repairs-Rebuilding- Modifications
Thanks for that information. Good to know.
 
I have all the bottom end parts to assemble a new short block . just need for the weather to warm up here is Wisconsin .
 
Here are the Erson cam specs again I will use in the 273 .
according to old erson catalog. it's a high flow Im. 286/240 duration, .492 lift, .022 lash. cam part # is 420721. says, it's a hi lift , short duration,, delivers strong power from 2000 to 7000, good idle, good for auto with gears.
 
Here are the Erson cam specs again I will use in the 273 .
according to old erson catalog. it's a high flow Im. 286/240 duration, .492 lift, .022 lash. cam part # is 420721. says, it's a hi lift , short duration,, delivers strong power from 2000 to 7000, good idle, good for auto with gears.
Hydraulic or flat tappet? 240@ .050/.492 ought to idle like a top fueler! LOL
 
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