Another Mopar Off My Bucket List - Barracuda Fastback

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The streets were dry so I drove the Barracuda to Columbus to the movies. The 4.10s still make me feel squeamish on the highway. I don't remember why I had disconnected the tach but I kept wanting to see how much RPM I was running.

The parking lot was packed full of rice grinders so we parked at a nearby Wendys. They may not have chili dogs but their chili is pretty good when combined with a bacon cheeseburger. The Roadrunner may have it's flaws but it still garnishes a fair amount of attention. The two cars side by side stuck out like an oasis in the sea of late models.

My son had wished we could have parked in front of the theater. - Knowing that the FAST & FURIOUS movies usually feature a number of Mopars he had wanted to see people's reactions.

The movie was so-so at best. It didn't fail to deliver on Chrysler products though. There were a few '70 Roadrunners, a '70 Charger, two '68 Chargers, a newer Challenger, and a '73 or '74 'Cuda. They pretty much managed to destroy them all. In my list of favorite 'car' movies the FAST & FURIOUS franchise ranks pretty low. They seem to be more about performing ridiculous stunts that defy the laws of physics and outrageous crash scenes than giving real car guys something to enjoy. But seeing a movie with my son is always enjoyable no matter what.

Driving through Columbus we had a few late model Camaros, Mustangs, and some of those rice grinders pulling alongside revving their motors. At my age I should know enough to ignore them but I couldn't help but get into the throttle enough to show them their world moved at a slower pace than ours.

I'm not real happy with the temperature the engine was running at. The Evans waterless coolant won't boil over but the gauge stayed on the high side when cruising around. It was in the 40s outside so I had the heater on and it was blowing cold. Something is out of whack.

Understand, on the F & F gig.... Don't blame you. Are you sure, that gauge is accurate?... Heater wouldn't exist, in my world, something isn't transferring heat, somewhere.
 
Understand, on the F & F gig.... Don't blame you. Are you sure, that gauge is accurate?... Heater wouldn't exist, in my world, something isn't transferring heat, somewhere.

I had suspected the gauge but I'm also running one of those Mr. Gasket thermometer radiator caps and it agrees with the gauge in the dash. Because the radiator temp is high I must be getting coolant flow through it. I need to figure out why it's not making it through to the heater core. The core was new and the whole system was flushed when I installed the 408. I didn't spend any time on it today.
 
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After the other night's movie outing we decided to focus attention back on the Charger again. There is so much that needs to be done that it's hard to know where to start.

We had finished welding in the subframe connectors the other day and are waiting for more POR-15 to arrive so we can coat them. We don't have the new K-member from HemiDenny yet so we can't install it. One of the things that we had never gotten done was to set up all of our pulleys. The 3" blower belt means that standard locations and brackets may not work. Final decisions on which power steering pump and alternator to choose have not been made. We're not even certain that the 4 core Champion radiator will leave enough room for the blower and accessory belts.

The machine work has never been done yet on the 400 block even though it's been mocked up on the engine cradle for some time. The stroker crank, pistons, etc, are all in the basement. The engine on the stand doesn't even have a crankshaft in it anymore. We realized that we will be needing to drop an engine into the bay after the new K-member arrives. Then we should be able to plan out the accessory locations.

I gave one of my buddies a call and asked if we could borrow a spare 400 from him that we could use for mock up. No problem. We zipped over and picked it up. It was pretty crusty inside and out but all we really needed was a short block and it didn't need to rotate.

We stripped it all down but haven't removed the harmonic balancer yet. I'd loaned my puller out to another friend and have to go get it back. Then we scraped as much crud off the motor as we could and sprayed it silver. My friend won't mind because his plan was to sell it as a core for rebuild.

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We're hoping that the bright silver will make it easier to see when it comes to pulley alignment. If we can we'll try to maintain the stock locations for the power steering and alternator. One of the obstacles will be mounting an air conditioning compressor with that supercharger and 3" blower belt. My son found a bracket setup for mounting a Sanborn compressor below the alternator. We would be required to run an electric fuel pump with this air conditioner compressor bracket.

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The purpose of the Sanborn compressor mentioned in my previous post was for an intercooler system for the supercharger. My son wants us to build our own. - And he wants to chill it with an air conditioner system. The gains are supposed to be substantially better than an intercooler that uses recirculated water. They do sell intercoolers that sit between a 6-71 blower and the blower intake but they raise the supercharger another 4" higher. He wanted us to incorporate one into the manifold itself.

I dreaded the idea of chopping into this intake. I've had it for almost 40 years and I think it'd be easier to find a long crossram intake than another one of these. But I gave it to my son to use so it's his call.

We started by inspecting the intake for the best locations to drill holes for our tubing to run through. The front has the distributor and the pop off valve. That meant we would have to run our lines in through the rear. When we examined the support structure inside of the manifold we knew we were somewhat limited on where the tubing could be run. We marked our holes, center punched them and drilled them out.

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We had a few 20' rolls of 1/2" aluminum tubing that we'd bought for fuel lines. We thought we'd use it to create a coiled cooling system.

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The openings on the top of the intake were too small to reach your hands into but you could get your fingers and pry bars through them. At first we thought we'd be able to keep forcing the tubing through one of holes we'd drilled and make it snake around the manifold's center supports without much problem. Our goal was to make 3 circuits around those center supports.

We quickly discovered that the aluminum tubing tended to kink when bent. We bought some spray silicone and a long 3/8" diameter spring coiled drain snake to run on the inside of our tubing as we made our bends.

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We shoved the tubing in through the first hole and kept feeding it in as we attempted to make it bend around the center supports. After an hour of fighting it we only had two competed coils formed inside the intake and it didn't seem as though we'd be able to make a third. We decided to start over. That's when we discovered that we were unable to pull the drain snake out of the tubing. The malleable aluminum had more or less formed itself onto the spring so tightly that we would never be able to extract it. Damn!

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Our next approach was to cut the top of the intake enough to allow us to form the tubing above the manifold and install it from the top. We used an air grinder and a Dremel tool to chop it up. I tried not to remove any more material than we had to. The plan was to weld the sections I cut out back into place after we installed the tubing.

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After the top was opened up we still had to bend the tubing. Now that we could form the tubing outside of the intake, it wouldn't have to undergo the back and forth bending/straightening as it did when we had been shoving it in through the small drilled hole. We tried a pair of 90' bends and found that we were still unable to get the spring back out. So we tried making a single 90' bend and found that it was difficult but not impossible to pull the spring out.

To make it work we'd have to have the spring shoved inside of the 20 foot long tube the full length. Each time we made a bend we'd pull the spring out far enough so that it would never need to be pulled through more than one formed bend at a time.

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It was all working pretty good and we were almost finished when we accidentally had pulled the spring too far out and formed a bend without the spring in position. - The tube was pretty flat. Discouraged, we took a break. As we discussed starting over we also thought we should explore other options for making a heat exchanger. I think we have a new plan.


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It's funny you doing this. I have been working on a boat with inter cooled blowers. They have a specially made intake for a core inserted into it. This particular system was built 20? years ago? One of the cores started leaking, we took the cores out and retuned. It's alright when the engine is stone cold, but even after warm up, and the engines only get to about 160ish, it's a pig. No power. The reason we didn't put another core in was because this particular size is no longer made. I also have to believe that this core size doesn't do very well because of it's small size. This particular boat is fuel injected so the manifold isn't typical. It's taller than a regular blower intake so we can't add a 4" inter cooler. No belt that long.
Looking at your recent post, I would have stopped you before you modded the intake. The only way you get an "efficient" inter cooler is to add the 4". The small amount you would add to the intake, isn't going to work. Sorry man.
 
It's funny you doing this. I have been working on a boat with inter cooled blowers. They have a specially made intake for a core inserted into it. This particular system was built 20? years ago? One of the cores started leaking, we took the cores out and retuned. It's alright when the engine is stone cold, but even after warm up, and the engines only get to about 160ish, it's a pig. No power. The reason we didn't put another core in was because this particular size is no longer made. I also have to believe that this core size doesn't do very well because of it's small size. This particular boat is fuel injected so the manifold isn't typical. It's taller than a regular blower intake so we can't add a 4" inter cooler. No belt that long.
Looking at your recent post, I would have stopped you before you modded the intake. The only way you get an "efficient" inter cooler is to add the 4". The small amount you would add to the intake, isn't going to work. Sorry man.

being a plumber for 47 yrs., I got a tip for you, " mech. tubing benders! "
 
It's funny you doing this. I have been working on a boat with inter cooled blowers. They have a specially made intake for a core inserted into it. This particular system was built 20? years ago? One of the cores started leaking, we took the cores out and retuned. It's alright when the engine is stone cold, but even after warm up, and the engines only get to about 160ish, it's a pig. No power. The reason we didn't put another core in was because this particular size is no longer made. I also have to believe that this core size doesn't do very well because of it's small size. This particular boat is fuel injected so the manifold isn't typical. It's taller than a regular blower intake so we can't add a 4" inter cooler. No belt that long.
Looking at your recent post, I would have stopped you before you modded the intake. The only way you get an "efficient" inter cooler is to add the 4". The small amount you would add to the intake, isn't going to work. Sorry man.


Boy oh boy, I had really cringed when my son originally proposed the plan. He can be pretty persuasive. Because it's actually his car I never make the final decisions on direction. I'm still hoping that our final design will produce results. The boat designs I've seen use lake water to maintain a supply of cool water and I would think they'd be very efficient.

We had debated the benefit of running an intercooler and knew that most boosted engines see a big gain with them. One of the first things I told my son was that I thought the gain would be minimal on a system that relied upon a closed loop water recirculating design. I assumed that the temperature of the water would become warm and you wouldn't get much cooling effect. We speculated that a refrigerated version would be better capable of maintaining a cold flow.

My son contacted Steve Kinser of Iowa to pick his brain. Steve runs a blown alcohol hemi altered and drag boat. He runs a machine shop and had re-machined our 6-71 for us. His specialty seems to be working with blown aluminum block Keith Black Hemis. There must have been a dozen of them sitting around his shop the last time I was there. When my son described what we were planning he told him it was a good idea. He claimed that we'd see a horsepower increase with each degree cooler we could drop the intake charge. I don't know how specific my son was when he described our design.

Yesterday we switched gears a bit on our design. Instead of coiling aluminum tubing around the center supports by hand, we ordered a pair of copper tube/aluminum finned heat exchangers that should fit on each side of our supports. I had been pushing the potential added benefit of a finned design to my son. Although I still think we'll see a gain I did have concerns about restricting air flow and affecting fuel atomization. This intake has a very open plenum design which I hope will provide adequate flow capability even with the heat exchanger installed.

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If we run our line in through the top fitting of one of these units and then have the bottom fitting loop into the bottom fitting of the second exchanger, we should be able to have it exit the manifold through the top fitting of the second exchanger.

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The heat exchangers are made by a company named DERALE Performance.

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The dimensions of each unit is 12-5/8" x 2-1/2" x 3/4". The width of the opening we've cut is already 3/4" wide and our opening length is 12". Our intake plenum is 3" tall. We may be adding some filler pieces to help direct flow after installing the coolers.



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being a plumber for 47 yrs., I got a tip for you, " mech. tubing benders! "

Thanks for the tip.

Ya Bob, the reason why we'd originally been forming by hand was that we were trying to make the tubing bend inside of the manifold where there was no room for any form of tool usage. When we made our second attempt we did have a tubing bender but it was a cheap one. My experience with tubing benders tells me that we would most likely to have had better results with a better tool. The one we used was similar to one of those used to bend EMT. I was considering getting another bender when we decided to change course on design.
 
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SNKEBIT, please chime in again about the intercooler. I value all the input I can get. We've got ZERO personal experience with superchargers and intercoolers. We're read books and articles, watched videos, searched the web, etc. I have been hoping that we've made correct choices most of the time, but this will be the first supercharged engine we've built. Intercooler advice from someone that isn't trying to sell you something is hard to come by.

I have been led to believe that dropping a blower onto an engine is a fairly simple undertaking. We've sought recommendations for cam selection from Competition Cams and the pistons are what Ross said would be best. We chose the 400 block as a starting point because we'd heard that it would be the strongest big cubed option. The components of the stroker kit are all forged and we've gotten the billet aluminum main caps. It's been a few years since we purchased those components so I don't recall all of the specs off the top of my head.

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Not all of the components were chosen to maximize horsepower. The original main goal was to make sure that all of the components were as strong as possible even if it sacrificed power. Now my son is re-thinking some of those choices. The Comp Cams chromemoly rocker assembly may get replaced with a lighter setup from Harland Sharp. The flat tappet cam will probably be swapped for a roller. My son is even considering not using the Edelbrock heads. I'd spent hours port matching and smoothing the ports and combustion chambers.


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I believe the only option you have that is anywhere near efficient is to add the 4" inter cooler to the top of the manifold. You can try to get something into the manifold but it won't be big enough not to heat sink and be useless.
I have had this conversation more than once with a very good FI builder. He builds high buck TT setups on very spendy cars for a living. The heat soak is worse on a blower car because it is working ALL the time.
One thing to check though, is that if whatever core you use, be sure it can take the pressures of an A/C system. Most of them aren't made for higher pressure systems.
 
I believe the only option you have that is anywhere near efficient is to add the 4" inter cooler to the top of the manifold. You can try to get something into the manifold but it won't be big enough not to heat sink and be useless.
I have had this conversation more than once with a very good FI builder. He builds high buck TT setups on very spendy cars for a living. The heat soak is worse on a blower car because it is working ALL the time.
One thing to check though, is that if whatever core you use, be sure it can take the pressures of an A/C system. Most of them aren't made for higher pressure systems.


The exchangers my son ordered were rated at 250 psi. We had avoided the top mounted intercoolers because of height (and expense). The thought of using one of those center mounted heat exchangers from them did occur to us but we were afraid to lose the manifold's center supports thinking that we might ruin the ability to have a good seal between the manifold and blower.

I had suggested to my son that we try to consult with 'bigger brains' before making a decision on direction. He believes that the coolant flow will be fast enough to stay cold inside the intake. I was intrigued about the prospect of making our own system but didn't want to expend the effort on a setup that wouldn't produce a gain.

One of my concerns was that this particular manifold does not have the typical air gap beneath it that you see on Chrysler big blocks. The hot oil splashing against the bottom would further heat our intake charge. I suggested that we add an aluminum shield beneath the manifold to prevent oil from being flung directly on the bottom.

If you're correct and this design will be too inefficient to provide a cooling effect, I'm not sure we could tell without putting a temperature sensor inside the manifold. We could test with the compressor on and again with it off. My son is pretty adamant about staying the course. I think he gets upset with me when I suggest drop kicking this idea to the curb. He's controlling the purse strings on the project so the final decisions are his. I commend him for trying to be innovative whether or not he succeeds. I wish that I had more experience with these things so I could give him more intelligent advice. - That's why I am very interested in your input. Maybe some of your advice will sway him or lead to further modifications that will get us to a system that will work.
Thanks.
 
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It was a busy day for package delivery here today. The postal service and UPS each dropped one to me and FedEx dropped off two.

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My son ordered some more POR-15 Metal Prep and a six pack of the black anti-rust coating. I assume he chose the small cans of the coating instead of a larger can because it tends to set up after opening.

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He also ordered some of the zinc coating from Eastwood to spray inside the subframe connectors.

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The left side tail light assembly arrived for the 'Lil Red.

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I have to give a big thanks to Cuda68Scott. When he saw me whining about problems with the jack on my cherry picker he sent me one free of charge. I tried to insist on (at least) paying the shipping charges but he said NO. Somehow I've got to figure out a way to pay him back. I'm not sure yet. I wish I had my plating system going. I'd offer to plate some parts for free. Maybe I'll come up with a better idea. I know he'll say it isn't necessary but I really insist and hopefully whatever I figure out to send won't be too lame.

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Boy oh boy, I had really cringed when my son originally proposed the plan. He can be pretty persuasive. Because it's actually his car I never make the final decisions on direction. I'm still hoping that our final design will produce results. The boat designs I've seen use lake water to maintain a supply of cool water and I would think they'd be very efficient.

We had debated the benefit of running an intercooler and knew that most boosted engines see a big gain with them. One of the first things I told my son was that I thought the gain would be minimal on a system that relied upon a closed loop water recirculating design. I assumed that the temperature of the water would become warm and you wouldn't get much cooling effect. We speculated that a refrigerated version would be better capable of maintaining a cold flow.

My son contacted Steve Kinser of Iowa to pick his brain. Steve runs a blown alcohol hemi altered and drag boat. He runs a machine shop and had re-machined our 6-71 for us. His specialty seems to be working with blown aluminum block Keith Black Hemis. There must have been a dozen of them sitting around his shop the last time I was there. When my son described what we were planning he told him it was a good idea. He claimed that we'd see a horsepower increase with each degree cooler we could drop the intake charge. I don't know how specific my son was when he described our design.

Yesterday we switched gears a bit on our design. Instead of coiling aluminum tubing around the center supports by hand, we ordered a pair of copper tube/aluminum finned heat exchangers that should fit on each side of our supports. I had been pushing the potential added benefit of a finned design to my son. Although I still think we'll see a gain I did have concerns about restricting air flow and affecting fuel atomization. This intake has a very open plenum design which I hope will provide adequate flow capability even with the heat exchanger installed.

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If we run our line in through the top fitting of one of these units and then have the bottom fitting loop into the bottom fitting of the second exchanger, we should be able to have it exit the manifold through the top fitting of the second exchanger.

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The heat exchangers are made by a company named DERALE Performance.

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The dimensions of each unit is
12-5/8" x 2-1/2" x 3/4". The width of the opening we've cut is already 3/4" wide and our opening length is 12". Our intake plenum is 3" tall. We may be adding some filler pieces to help direct flow after installing the coolers.


Have you thought about doing water/methanal. I run that with my supercharger. Cools the air charge and adds another fuel.Really easy to use.
 
Glad to see the jack made it and hope it still works! Otherwise, it should make a good door stop or maybe use it for ballast for your red express during snow days!

Wow - Developing an intercooler on a supercharger! You never cease to amaze me on the varierty in your thread. While I am just trying to decide what type of bushing to use for a leaf spring, you are working on this! In the words of Garth and Wayne - "we are not worthy":prayer:
 
Have you thought about doing water/methanal. I run that with my supercharger. Cools the air charge and adds another fuel.Really easy to use.

Thanks for the suggestion. Most of the ideas for the Charger build are instigated by my son. I'm just sort of along for the ride as a fabricator most of the time. He has mentioned that idea but hasn't elaborated on what exactly he has in mind yet. I have never looked into them myself. Do you have any pictures of your system? How large of a reservoir do you use? Are there any down sides to the system? I think my son may be thinking of using one of those setups in conjunction with the intercooler.
 
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Glad to see the jack made it and hope it still works! Otherwise, it should make a good door stop or maybe use it for ballast for your red express during snow days!

Wow - Developing an intercooler on a supercharger! You never cease to amaze me on the varierty in your thread. While I am just trying to decide what type of bushing to use for a leaf spring, you are working on this! In the words of Garth and Wayne - "we are not worthy":prayer:


Major super-sized thanks Scott! I don't think that it's a matter of whether or not you're worthy but rather a question of whether or not I'm capable of pulling off some of these ideas without creating a train wreck.

My boy has had me working on things that I never would have if it was my own project. - Not that I don't like his ideas but I doubt I'd ever have been willing to spend for things like the HemiDenny K-member, a Gear Vendors overdrive, an intercooler, the Dakota Digital dash cluster, etc... Some of those are the things I'd only dream about. Without prior experience I'm constantly having to do research and have to keep my fingers crossed that I don't screw things up.

He has exposed me to products that I was previously unfamiliar with like the POR-15, the Evans waterless coolant, and those US Cartool subframe connectors and driveshaft loops.

I rarely go out on a limb too far on the choices I make for my own cars. My own stuff is more likely to resemble a hopped up restoration. - Low key and low buck. I often cringe when he suggests another new idea. It's not that I dislike his choices but most of them feel like another hurdle to overcome before the Charger will see light of day.
 
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Major super-sized thanks Scott! I don't think that it's a matter of whether or not you're worthy but rather a question of whether or not I'm capable of pulling off some of these ideas without creating a train wreck.

My boy has had me working on things that I never would have if it was my own project. - Not that I don't like his ideas but I doubt I'd ever have been willing to spend for things like the HemiDenny K-member, a Gear Vendors overdrive, an intercooler, the Dakota Digital dash cluster, etc... Some of those are the things I'd only dream about. Without prior experience I'm constantly having to do research and have to keep my fingers crossed that I don't screw things up.

He has exposed me to products that I was previously unfamiliar with like the POR-15, the Evans waterless coolant, and those US Cartool subframe connectors and driveshaft loops.

I rarely go out on a limb too far on the choices I make for my own cars. My own stuff is more likely to resemble a hopped up restoration. - Low key and low buck. I often cringe when he suggests another new idea. It's not that I dislike his choices but most of them feel like another hurdle to overcome before the Charger will see light of day.

Our kids keep us young by keeping us up to date on more modern advances but at the cost of our graying hair. L.O.L!!!!
I think the ideas are great ideas and without innovators we wouldn't have advancements or inventors of better ideas. I think it's awesome. I must admit, I always enjoy reading your posts on all the MANY things you have been working on...:happy1::happy1::coffee2:
 
Thanks ariffle. He's had me checking out thermo-barrier coatings today. The thought now is that we further try to control manifold temperature by having the bottom and insides of the intake coated. There are a lot of 'space age coatings available. I think we're leaning towards a ceramic coat.
 
Thanks ariffle. He's had me checking out thermo-barrier coatings today. The thought now is that we further try to control manifold temperature by having the bottom and insides of the intake coated. There are a lot of 'space age coatings available. I think we're leaning towards a ceramic coat.

I't great when fathers and sons work projects together. It builds memories that stand the test of time. Some memories we wish to forget but most were glad to remember.
I know my son and I are having a blast with our 67 and even though it seems like we arn't getting anywhere we still have a good time. Now only if he would help with the financial part of the project all would go smoother.
He just wants to go drive it and I keep reminding him that it's the problems and difficult to figure out solutions that you work out together and the time spent that will be the best memories. The driving afterwards won't be remembered as anything else but driving.
On the other hand I would love to take her out and make a few tire marks on the road. L.O.L!!
 
I't great when fathers and sons work projects together. It builds memories that stand the test of time. Some memories we wish to forget but most were glad to remember.
I know my son and I are having a blast with our 67 and even though it seems like we arn't getting anywhere we still have a good time. Now only if he would help with the financial part of the project all would go smoother.
He just wants to go drive it and I keep reminding him that it's the problems and difficult to figure out solutions that you work out together and the time spent that will be the best memories. The driving afterwards won't be remembered as anything else but driving.
On the other hand I would love to take her out and make a few tire marks on the road. L.O.L!!


My old man never helped me work on my cars. I was just grateful that he never kicked me out of the shop while I did. When I read the threads that guys have posted about their cars that have been second generation owned it makes me smile. The number of memories that go with those vehicles has to be as valuable as the cars themselves.

Tomorrow I'm headed to Des Moines to pick up my son's Jeep Cherokee and bring it back to Nebraska. It's yearning to be put down at a scrapyard after several years of use. One of my buddies here said he could use parts off of itbefore it meets it's demise.

I'll be hauling the SRT Challenger to Des Moines when I go. - No sense in my son driving separate. The Ford truck still has no heater or radio. Hopefully the temperature will get out of the 40s before we leave.

I have to be back by Sunday. There's a swap meet in Wahoo, Nebraska then. Maybe a $200 crate hemi will be there. - Probably not, - but I can dream.
 
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Here are a couple of pics of the system.The tank is five gallons and the pump runs on a vacuum pressure switch.The nozzle on my system goes into the hat.With the you and your sons supercharger you would use a plate system same as plate nitrous.There are several companies that sell these systems.They cost anywhere from 500.00 to 800.00 for the system.
 

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Here are a couple of pics of the system.The tank is five gallons and the pump runs on a vacuum pressure switch.The nozzle on my system goes into the hat.With the you and your sons supercharger you would use a plate system same as plate nitrous.There are several companies that sell these systems.They cost anywhere from 500.00 to 800.00 for the system.
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WOW!! Nice car! It's a bit difficult for me to tell the exact layout of the system but it appears as though you've got the reservoir and pump mounted inside your trunk. I had assumed we'd need to mount everything in the engine bay. 5 gallons is larger than I thought we'd be running and was worrying about the need to refill often. The larger capacity makes the system seem a lot more practical for daily driving. Thanks for the pics. It gives me a much different concept of setting a system up than what I'd been imagining.
 
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Sorry about the pics. They aren't that great.LOL
You can run everything in the engine bay.A friend of mine runs his off the windshield washer bottle and just refills that when he needs.With water/meth you can program how much sprays and the size of nozzle.
 
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