Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

-
Here is a 17x8 rim with the Magnum Force dropped knuckle. There is lots of room for the upper ball joint but the tie rod ends get jammed into the rim if there is very much backspacing.
5217514-Dropped.jpg
 
Here is a 17x8 rim with the Magnum Force dropped knuckle. There is lots of room for the upper ball joint but the tie rod ends get jammed into the rim if there is very much backspacing.
5217514-Dropped.jpg


AndyF, what is the exact spacing on that rim? What AREngineering brake kit is that? The picture looks like the 13" x 1" mustang rotor, custom non stock hub with non stock offset for Mustang rims?? And did you do a different caliper adapter for the dropped spindle?

Like to see that picture with a stock 11.75 or 10.75 rotor setup.
 
AndyF, what is the exact spacing on that rim?


I'll 2nd this one, I have the Magnumforce spindles and I'm in the market for 17" rims. I should have realized they might give me bigger tie rod interference problems...
 
That is the AR189 brake kit. The AR189 is the 13 inch kit for A/B/E body cars with the 1973 or newer disk knuckles.

That is a Mustang Bullitt rim, 17x8 with 5.72 backspacing. But the brake kit pushes the hub outboard by 0.70 inches so it is just the same as having a 17x8 rim with 5 inches of backspacing on a stock rotor.
 
That is the AR189 brake kit. The AR189 is the 13 inch kit for A/B/E body cars with the 1973 or newer disk knuckles.

That is a Mustang Bullitt rim, 17x8 with 5.72 backspacing. But the brake kit pushes the hub outboard by 0.70 inches so it is just the same as having a 17x8 rim with 5 inches of backspacing on a stock rotor.

so that is a off the shelf mustang rotor? what year mustang? if i can find the brembo's,i can make the adapter for it.
 
The rim is from a Mustang not the rotor.

Sorry, my bad. I thought I read those were rotors for a Cobra.

What do the rotors in the AR189 kit cost to replace? Are they production car based and easy and readily available.
 
I've never had a customer ask for replacement rotors so I've never set up a price for them. I know they last a long time, even the track cars don't seem to eat them up very fast. I suppose they would be about $175 each today if someone needed a set. They are only available from me. I tried to find an off the shelf rotor that would work but never did find one that fit all of the design requirements.
 
hey andy. do you do any rear disk kits? i didn't see anything on your site.
 
i finally got to take deb out on a run with the 8's on the front. i had swapped carbs and had a couple issues to work out. it is alot nicer! i left the 10mm spacer behind them for the width and i don't have any problem so far with them rubbing the fenders or the tierod ends,nothing. i threw it into a on ramp pretty hard last night and all was well.
 
I found some 17x10.5 Bullitt wheels on craigslist and they say they are deep dish, just wondering if they will fit on my 72 Dart.

Thanks,
Dan
 
you would need a hell of a spacer on the factory rear,or run a b-body rear.
 
where did you find your shorter profile zerk fittings? also, have any recommendations for nicer than stock wheel bearing dust caps?

0606091808a.jpg
 
DARTDUDE74, I don't think you can fit that rim without modified wheel wells/inner fenders - i.e:tubbing. If you had a spacer it would probably be about 2" which would lead to other problems, such as pre-mature wheel bearing failure, or broken spacer/studs. All of which would be considered very unsafe. As well that if your insurance company sees spacers over 3/8" from what the laws are here in Canada, they void your insurance. Best to measure for backspacing & get the right rims.
 
Yeah thats what I was thinking, just found some 17x10.5s for really cheap and thought I would give it a shot. I couldn't find a good deal on used bullitt wheels with black spokes so think I'm just going to go with some new re-manufactured bullitt wheels that I know will fit.
 
Finally got ours back on the road last night. Still have to do something with the hub centers, but at least it's driveable again.

DSCN1347.jpg
 
This car was originally a slant 6 car, but was already a 318 when we bought it, so the brakes were scary to my Wife. She likened it to driving her VW Bug to school, back in the 70's.
It took a little work but not much expensive stuff, to do this one. First and foremost was changing the rearend to make it long enough,to not require spacers. I ended up using a $275 junkyard 2wd Explorer 8.8 axle assembly, mainly because it was 3.55 ratio, disc brake equipped and I already had a posi for it on the shelf. It did need brake shoes for the parking brake and I goofed on the length of the right side parking brake cable, so I will have to find and cut another cable. New U-bolts and a cut and weld session, to put the Ford flange on the driveshaft, means that, for less than $375 I had the rear done.
The front was a standard late model disc conversion, using RMS upper control arms, and I paid more for them, than the rearend. I didn't wanna give up the front swaybar, so I put the calipers behind the spindle centerline and just rebent new factory replacement brake hoses, as tight as I could wrap them, along the calipers. Wheel spacers, and 3 inch studs, are a lightly unnerving neccessity on the front, and at the moment I'm using 2 of them per side, for a total of 11/16 thickness, per side. I'm not real fond of that idea and I run a lathe for a living, so I will be making a beter spacer arrangement, soon.
Thinking that 13 inch Cobra rotors are in the future, just gotta figure out what calipers and mounts I wanna run, then I can lose the wheel spacers completely and make, or buy(maybe) a hub to fit the combo correctly.

We've got 235/55-17 tires on the rear and I end up with 235/45-17 on the front. When we wear this set of fronts out I'll replace'em with 245/45-17, simply 'cause they look a little small to me!
If ya think I should take a pic or 2, tell me what you wanna see!
 
This car was originally a slant 6 car, but was already a 318 when we bought it, so the brakes were scary to my Wife. She likened it to driving her VW Bug to school, back in the 70's.
It took a little work but not much expensive stuff, to do this one. First and foremost was changing the rearend to make it long enough,to not require spacers. I ended up using a $275 junkyard 2wd Explorer 8.8 axle assembly, mainly because it was 3.55 ratio, disc brake equipped and I already had a posi for it on the shelf. It did need brake shoes for the parking brake and I goofed on the length of the right side parking brake cable, so I will have to find and cut another cable. New U-bolts and a cut and weld session, to put the Ford flange on the driveshaft, means that, for less than $375 I had the rear done.
The front was a standard late model disc conversion, using RMS upper control arms, and I paid more for them, than the rearend. I didn't wanna give up the front swaybar, so I put the calipers behind the spindle centerline and just rebent new factory replacement brake hoses, as tight as I could wrap them, along the calipers. Wheel spacers, and 3 inch studs, are a lightly unnerving neccessity on the front, and at the moment I'm using 2 of them per side, for a total of 11/16 thickness, per side. I'm not real fond of that idea and I run a lathe for a living, so I will be making a beter spacer arrangement, soon.
Thinking that 13 inch Cobra rotors are in the future, just gotta figure out what calipers and mounts I wanna run, then I can lose the wheel spacers completely and make, or buy(maybe) a hub to fit the combo correctly.

We've got 235/55-17 tires on the rear and I end up with 235/45-17 on the front. When we wear this set of fronts out I'll replace'em with 245/45-17, simply 'cause they look a little small to me!
If ya think I should take a pic or 2, tell me what you wanna see!

What backspacing are your front rims? I thought they were 5.72" backspace typically. Therefore, 0.5" spacer, or even less, should be all that is neccessary to clear the outside tie rod end if you have factory spindles (non dropped).

Wracks71 had to run less backspace because he is running the dropped spindles that makes the outside tie rod interfere with the 17" rims. Stock spindles allow for more backspace on a 17" rim in the front and thus wider rims.
 
SST,
Those are the '05 and newer wheels, aren't they? Those have more backspace than the 94-04 wheels. I'm not sure if the paint matches between those two models, but you MIGHT be able to swap the front wheels out for the earlier models with less BS and get away from the spacers like that. I've got the earlier wheels on my Valiant (same fenders & brakes as you) with no fitment issues, running 245/45's.

Just another data point...

Clair
 
Finally got ours back on the road last night. Still have to do something with the hub centers, but at least it's driveable again.

I got 1/8" spacers, the center cap will clear. I did a dry fit, I hope I can get them mounted this weekend!

4599_503899152053_215200221_81651_3314915_n.jpg


4533_503880404623_215200221_80446_1979565_n.jpg
 
thats pretty cool, the explorer rear is a good width for the bullits. there are tons of them in the yards. i didnt liek the idea of spacers on the front so
we turned down the end of the rotor to clear the rim.
 
Sorry it's taken so long guys, but I was trying to reply thursday morn and lightning took out my PC, modem, and wireless router!!! Can you say Damn-it!!!
Anyways, Autoxcuda is correct in that I don't need all the spacer in front, to clear suspension parts, but it gets me more clearence over the dust cap and keeps the front tires off the stock sway bar. I got the idea, for close to 3/4 inch spacing, from AndyF, on this and his websites.
The wheels I'm running are 2003 specials and are Ford Motorsport wheels at only $100 a piece, from a place called the Modular Depot, in northern Kentucky. The Depot has been a Mustang specialist for a long time, but is branching out into all the late model American muscle, including a Challenger they were supercharging, when I picked up these wheels.
 
-
Back
Top