Anyone customizing there stock 340 Windage tray?

[swinger340]

Want the benefits of oil control out of the stock 340 windage tray but don't like how it slows oil return to the sump. My 340 w a stock pan and a HV oil pump was no good after 7000. Lifters collapsed under hard acceleration and eventually spun # 5 and 6 rod bearings. Have since done some oiling mods, and have added a 7 qt pan but am still weary if ill be OK to spin it 7200 w stock tray. Have heard of guys drilling 1/8" holes, adding screen, or adding slits in the stock trays for quicker oil return to the sump. Anyone doing this? Im looking for pics, or ideas as to what is working. I don't want to spin a rod bearing again within a few thousand miles. Im probably safe now w the extra oil capacity, and oiling mods, but can never be to safe.

 

[dustinmoran91]

I think some like to pry the "doors" open a little more along with the holes. Ive never done this and dont know how many holes would be needed to affect oil flow. I figure it would need to a few since oil even when hot isnt going to flow really fast through an 1/8" hole

 

[MopaR&D]

Did your stock pan have a baffle? A windage tray will do nothing for controlling the oil in the sump under hard acceleration. If you didn't it's not surprising the engine starved for oil as I'm sure you are pushing some serious HP with a 7000 RPM redline. With your new deep oil pan it shouldn't be much of an issue though, they are designed to help keep oil in the sump at all times.

You could always pry the 'window' flaps open on the tray a little more for added drainback, the passages are a little small OOTB.

 

[swinger340]

Did your stock pan have a baffle? A windage tray will do nothing for controlling the oil in the sump under hard acceleration. If you didn't it's not surprising the engine starved for oil as I'm sure you are pushing some serious HP with a 7000 RPM redline. With your new deep oil pan it shouldn't be much of an issue though, they are designed to help keep oil in the sump at all times.

You could always pry the 'window' flaps open on the tray a little more for added drainback, the passages are a little small OOTB.

No, stock pan did not have a baffle. So no oil control under a acceleration. Under hard acceleration @ 6500 + the lifters would collapse and oil pressure wold drop off if I held it there for a bit. After this happened a few times I spun # 5 rod bearing.

 

[autoxcuda]

Is 7000 rpm and hydraulic lifters pushing it?

A Milodon low pro pan should feed the pump if it's still somewhat of a street car. It's got a shelf with cutout in the middle of it to create a taller rear wall to keep oil from spilling out of the sump into the rear of the pan. It looks like they did it for suspension room, but it's actually for oil control because small block mopars have a very low rear pan section to clear the oil pump. And it's got a shelf at the top of that rear wall.

 

[71swing]

I just recently spun the #5 bearing also. I ran a HV pump and a moroso stock style pan that has a baffle on the front of the sump only I believe. I have a hard time watching my pressure gauges during a run since its a small 2" mounted under the dash. would require me to take my eye off the road for to long. So I never saw a pressure drop but it could have very well been the problem.

MY 340 was to far gone on the bore so I am stepping up to a 360 that Im stroking to 408. When I get it back from the machine shop I plan to try and get the stock 340 windage tray to fit over 4" crank with a 6qt Kevko pan I just picked up yesterday. We'll see how much I need to modify the windage to fit. I just hope there is some tray left when Im done. If I have to cut it up too much to fit, I will just leave it off. If I can get it too fit. I at least plan to open the vents up more. May even drill a few wholes.

 

[forphorty]

check it out http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1208phr_371ci_mopar_small_block/photo_05.html

 

[raymond]

Here's a pic or two of a bit of extra work I did to mine.

 

[RAMM]

check it out http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1208phr_371ci_mopar_small_block/photo_05.html

Thanks for the link. I am a believer in a WELL designed tray--not so much a stock one. Getting one to fit well with a 4" arm is not easy. You will definately rash your bearings with a stock or poorly baffled pan--The Milodon's are the best. J.Rob

 

[moper]

The stock tray and pan should not be used with an engine that is expected to run to 7200. If the lifters were ticking you can be sure the lower end is suffering and you need to address the delivery issue. The weak point is the suction side of the pump. If you have not upgraded the pump and pickup, and the pan and windage control, you should. As RAMM said - Milodon is best.
The #4 main starving can be addressed with the valley crossover mod. The use of 45° fittings and the angles of the holes drilled are critical to slow down the oil in the galley and let it make the turn to the #4 main. Lastly - the oil clearances and crank grinding work MUST be perfect.

 

[swinger340]

The stock tray and pan should not be used with an engine that is expected to run to 7200. If the lifters were ticking you can be sure the lower end is suffering and you need to address the delivery issue. The weak point is the suction side of the pump. If you have not upgraded the pump and pickup, and the pan and windage control, you should. As RAMM said - Milodon is best.
The #4 main starving can be addressed with the valley crossover mod. The use of 45° fittings and the angles of the holes drilled are critical to slow down the oil in the galley and let it make the turn to the #4 main. Lastly - the oil clearances and crank grinding work MUST be perfect.

I have done the valley cross over as well as drilling everything up to the rt lifter feed 1/2" (matched rear main cap to the oil pump). diagonals from rt lifter feed down to the mains have been drilled to 5/16" Cleaned up the casting on the 4 oval holes and 5 smaller oil return holes on the upper end of the block, as well as drilling 8 5/16" holes between every pair of lifters for quicker oil drain back. Drilled 4 more 1/8" holes in the oil filter plate. Will be using Milodon 7qt pan w matching pick up tube and a cleaned up HV oil pump. Hoping to keep her alive @ 7000. Was previously running a hydrolic cam but am now going solid. Hoping the mods, as well as more oil capacity will help me do so. Dont want to be spinning # 5 rod bearing again. I would like a screen tray but not sure if anyone makes them for mopar. Have seen them for chevy. May just build one

 

[rumblefish360]

The problem here is a HV pump in a stock pan. Next issue is the oil pump itself. While many find a HV pump not needed, the passage at the mating point to the main cap and the main cap itself needs to be worked on and opened up. Much like a ported head.

The stock windage tray needs nothing more than the louvers opened up. But at your level, I'd opt for a new everything from Milodon. In which a road racing pan is excellent for the street or there drag race pan for just that. Depends on what you doing. Drag racing seems to be it. Driving the street any?

IMO, you were starving the engine of oil through high RPM's.

Opening up the passage ways in the block was good.

 

[swinger340]

The problem here is a HV pump in a stock pan. Next issue is the oil pump itself. While many find a HV pump not needed, the passage at the mating point to the main cap and the main cap itself needs to be worked on and opened up. Much like a ported head.

The stock windage tray needs nothing more than the louvers opened up. But at your level, I'd opt for a new everything from Milodon. In which a road racing pan is excellent for the street or there drag race pan for just that. Depends on what you doing. Drag racing seems to be it. Driving the street any?

IMO, you were starving the engine of oil through high RPM's.

Opening up the passage ways in the block was good.

Street/Strip Duster. 727 w 3800 stall and 3:91 gears. It was fine on the street. Track was when it starved for oil. Had a best best time of 7.50 in the 1/8th before blowing her up.