Anyone install Edlebrock aluminum heads ?

Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. j par

    j par Well-hung Member

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    You couldn't have much cheaper alternatives and gain horsepower.. I've never tried this but a spitball idea would be to put a scope down your spark plug hole and drive your piston up to top dead center first LOL.. and take a look the Piston the design and maybe how high it comes up? Maybe a cam change for someone like yourself mechanically inclined should be relatively easy. When you take the cam out you can have it looked at and make your cam Choice from there. The cam and lifters is not very expensive if you look in the right places.. just spitballing..
     
  2. j par

    j par Well-hung Member

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    If you have the time and the space and everything it wouldn't hurt anything to take your current heads off and examine if the Pistons are down in the hole or if they're custom or stock. At the very worst you would be into it $100 in gaskets.. at that point you really only a water pump and timing chain cover away from pulling the cam out as well.. well you have them off you can take the valves out and do some home porting and there's plenty of how to stuff here right on this forum.. I'm sure 318willrun has videos on it..
     
  3. j par

    j par Well-hung Member

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    Damn it I was going to step aside and let other people chimed in! I've got to go to work on my truck maybe this will give someone else a chance...
     
  4. yellow rose

    yellow rose Overnight Sensation

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    The issue is it doesn't matter which you mill...the face of the head or the intake. Once you are done, those parts only for with those parts. Just like a complete balance job.

    And I know that I've milled many intakes right out of the box on blocks and heads that didn't have any milling (or very little milling) because the ports didn't line up. Just because the bolts go in doesn't matter. The port must line up and the bolt hole are what they are.

    Just did a Pontiac this spring. Bought a NOS intake that was in the original box, unmolested. The engine had never been apart. And I had to take .060 off both sides.

    Tolerance stack up will bit you if you're not careful.
     
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    • pearljam724

      pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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      You’re a good man thank you. If I’m going to inspect the cam. All someone has to do is get the stamp number on the end. You look that stamp number up. It will tell you specs. It’s a bigger cam, I just don’t know what it is. Therefore, there’s probably really no need to buy another. I can verify what pistons are in it once heads are removed. Or use a camera as you suggested. I’m 95 % sure they are probably stock pistons. Heads are removable, meaning if that new head doesn’t work with my current parts. You can then have a shop install the right combo pistons and cam for that new head you installed. To some of you, you might do it differently. Spend 4-6 grand off the top to have a shop do 100 percent and I could have achieved what I wanted by only installing new heads alone to begin with if it works. But, if it can’t be done. It can’t be done.
       
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      • 66jim

        66jim Well-Known Member

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        Mechanics, machinists, plumbers,electricians, plumbers... anyone in trades that has
        experience with certain brands or procedures will most likely only endorse those they
        are familiar with. Anything outside their wheelhouse gets the stink eye. If your
        looking to buy aluminum heads try and find first hand knowledge.
         
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        • pearljam724

          pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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          You’re right. I have 72 motor. I believe the 360 stock pistons were dished, but I would have to confirm that. Looking at it now. The best thing to do would probably verify cam, pistons and go to that same engine builder to ask what he suggests on the combustion chamber size of the new heads. I would want to do this to avoid replacing the cam and the pistons for the time being. I’m totally capable of installing both and I have a garage. But, the whole reason in wanting to take my original approach was to avoid pulling the engine for the time being. Which is what you have to do to exchange pistons and probably cam too. I’m capable of exchanging parts. But, sometimes people have reasons for approaches that may differ from someone else. I personally had this engine nearly completely disassembled and put pack together and runs a lot better than when I bought it. But, I’m no performance builder.

          3DBA2367-681D-4EE0-ACEC-1EC22B8836D9.jpeg
           
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          • j par

            j par Well-hung Member

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            I'll give you one more piece of advice if you are thinking 4 to 6K in machine work to to put pistons in and heads on I would bag that entire idea and call Johnny Mac at blueprint engines.. get yourself a badass Dino broken in 408 Stroker with a warranty...
             
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            • j par

              j par Well-hung Member

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              I pull the motor and transmission all is one every time and I've done it so many times I've lost count. I might even do it just to put these heads on so I can have it out in front of me on an engine stand... I take my time but on a bet I could easily have it out and on my engine stand in onee 8 hour day...
               
            • pearljam724

              pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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              Yeah, I was thinking of just stroking my 360. A guy down the road from me has a 360 stroker in a 70 Dart. As bad ass as it is. It’s too much power for my car. I don’t want anymore than 400 hp. For practicality of street use and it’s just too much for my chassis. My engine as is will smoke a bone stock 360. I’m just wanting a tad more. The engine is totally capable of obtaining that little extra without over doing it.
               
              Last edited: Nov 17, 2019
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              • j par

                j par Well-hung Member

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                Also one great piece of advice would be not to just listen to my dumbass only that's what the great part of this forum is for is all of the collective ideas. Let the thread develop and get some more opinions here. Also I didn't see the picture of the motor when I look through your post last time and it looks really nice and clean. Taking a nice clean motor out is way different than taking one out but never been out before and is covered in grease and oil from its original state..
                 
              • j par

                j par Well-hung Member

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                I can tell you the stroker is way better for the street as it allows the kind of torque you want with the gears that you want for driving on the street without much of anything else..
                 
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                • pearljam724

                  pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                  Yeah, I could too. But, I drive my car a lot and with my time available. I’m putting off removing it for a while. Until I feel I have to.
                   
                • pearljam724

                  pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                  Thank you. parts are going to be between 2500-3k alone. That doesn’t include labor.
                   
                • pearljam724

                  pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                  I understand. I appreciate everyone’s advice. Regardless of its level. I started this thread to give me different angles of approach. Then when it’s time. I ll make that decision. It’s a fantastic running motor as is. So, I’m not in a hurry. I’m enjoying the hell out of it in its current state. It pulls steep and long mountain inclines like a champ. I know bumping the compression a tad is the only thing it lacks. It needs a very small head modification to be what I want it to be.
                   
                • pearljam724

                  pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                  Yeah, you’re right. But, the guy’s stroker 360 down the road from me gets 6 mpg. I have a hard time stomaching 9-11 with my engine as is, lol ! Maybe, I should just leave it alone, lol !
                   
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                  • BigBlockMopar

                    BigBlockMopar BigBlockMember

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                    6mpg most likely means the guy can't tune his engine. ;)
                    Taking heads off a running engine just to mill them mostly turns into a full/partial rebuild because you will always notice things you can't leave 'unfixed'.
                    A cold air-intake system could also bring back some 'peppyness' to an engine.
                     
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                    • Cudafever

                      Cudafever Well-Known Member

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                      You just need to do a little research on you eng before you jump of the wrong cliff.
                      You need to know the lift of your cam, then x1.5 that will give you your valve lift........
                      If you have a lot of lift and you shave your heads down..........the valves get closer to the piston.......if they are close now it might hit afterward. bent valve = no compression in that cyl.

                      If you have a small cam, say .430 lift and alu aftermarket head will not give you much bang for the buck.....but a .450 to .480 lift cam may wake it right up.

                      OK ok lets start from the TOP!
                      What gear ratio do you have?????????
                      Do you have a tachometer??????
                      What rpm does you combo stall at now. aka left foot on the brake as hard as you can and mash the skinny pedal with your right, to the floor. look at tach........what rpm did it go too???????
                      What intake manifold do you have on it right now?????
                      exhaust manifold or headers??????

                      Answer all of these and we have a start of spending all of "your" money in the right direction.................
                       
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                      • pearljam724

                        pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                        Maybe your right. All I know, he started it in his garage under his house for me. Yep, sounded like 6mpg, lol ! Incredible sound from a small block. I didn’t have to drive it or ride in it. You could feel the power at idle standing beside it. He races it. But, has a throttle valve on the dash that would tame the power to make it street friendly. Extremely nice car and set up. I’d like the same. But, if I were to spend that kind of money. I’d prefer to install a big block to increase my car’s value and it would be about the same in price. I’m happy with what I have because I don’t intend to sell it. It’s a very good running car.
                         
                      • pearljam724

                        pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                        2.94 gearing. I like that gearing because of high interstate speed limits and I don’t clown around. Other than punching it down once in a while. I just like having enough power when I want it on rare occasions. Rpm performer intake. Needs replaced with air gap/crossover deleted. Yes, tach. Stock headers. 4 barrel Edlebrock calibrated by me. Never checked what rpm it stalls at. The engine is a tad sluggish at low to mid rpms. At 2500 to 3500 it makes very good power. Mid to top end. Kind of expected with an aftermarket cam and gearing I have.
                         
                      • Demonic

                        Demonic Well-Known Member

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                        Try a set of 3.23's. Easier than swapping heads.
                         
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                        • ir3333

                          ir3333 Well-Known Member

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                          stock LA heads stall around .485 lift. Your cam will need to be bigger for a gain in power with your new aluminum heads
                          Aluminum heads shed heat better than iron and need more compression to make the same power as their iron counterparts. On a stockish small block going to aluminum may gain nothing.
                          Adding a bigger cam moves you from street to quarter mile territory and now you need more gear and converter because of poor lo rpm street performance.
                          For the guys that just added aluminum heads and got more power i'd want to see the dyno sheets, unless their original heads had poor flow.
                          Most every body i talked to that added an H pipe could feel the power increase, but a 6 inch piece of pipe can't make any power.... that's another topic!
                           
                        • pearljam724

                          pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                          Yeah, you’re absolutely correct. I can always hold onto the 2 and sale one perhaps. That I don’t want to hold onto. Very good suggestion. But, I do like higher gearing. Maybe, 323’s will give me what I’m looking for. It’s a very practical suggestion to try. If I don’t like it. It’s easy to swap or sale. I’ve removed mine once to fix a leak.
                           
                        • pearljam724

                          pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                          Thank you, sounds like you know what your talking about. I think for the next couple years. I’m probably going to port my stock heads and Edlebrock intake. And go with a 3.23 as recommended. If that doesn’t make me happy. I’ll start dumping more money.
                           
                        • ir3333

                          ir3333 Well-Known Member

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                          Gears and converter may be your best improvement, but don't change that rpm intake. What is the diameter of your rear tires?
                          Where are you AJ?
                           
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