Are girdles generally added for big rpm or HP or torque

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maca

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G'day all
I'm currently rebuilding my engine and considering fitting a girdle. I've never used one before and the only reason I'm considering putting one in now is because I read on Google that girdles are good for stroked engines. I'm guessing stroked engines produce more torque which means more stress on the crank.
Does anyone know if the girdles are more commonly used in big horsepower engines or big torquer engines or high RPM
Thanks
 
They are designed to strengthen the bottom end from various twisting forces. They do make the block a bit stronger because it helps tie the mains together. A lot of big horsepower engines use them. Some engine use a bed plate which is about the same idea.
 
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I've tried to read at what power range they are needed but it doesn't say anywhere. So I guess it's whenever I feel it's necessary. As I said I've never needed one in the past ever. But at this power level it would be cheap insurance while the engines.
 
Unless you go crazy on the HP an ARP stud kit is a lot cheaper. Lighter pistons and rods help too. And a top notch line hone.
 
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As already stated, studs, lightweight components, and quality machine work makes a huge difference.

I've seen quite a few girdles and have a hard time believing that they have any appreciable effect. If someone made a y block conversion that might interest me. One heavy solid piece that bolts to the pan rails and completely encapsulates the crank and mains. Then cross bolted through the main caps like an LS engine. That huge spacer would become the crankcase and except a flat oil pan with a sump.
 
Now that is an interesting thought.
 
Pascamp said:
As already stated, studs, lightweight components, and quality machine work makes a huge difference.

I've seen quite a few girdles and have a hard time believing that they have any appreciable effect. If someone made a y block conversion that might interest me. One heavy solid piece that bolts to the pan rails and completely encapsulates the crank and mains. Then cross bolted through the main caps like an LS engine. That huge spacer would become the crankcase and except a flat oil pan with a sump.
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Yeah I thought the same idea would be better to connect to the block. Too bad no one can make a full bolt on that replaces the caps and bolts to the oil pan bolts then the pan to the extension. Kinda like the neon srt4 block, the main cap were part of the support and bolted to the block. Can see on the picture what I mean at the bottom. Adds a skirt like the big blocks too.

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Pascamp said:
As already stated, studs, lightweight components, and quality machine work makes a huge difference.

I've seen quite a few girdles and have a hard time believing that they have any appreciable effect. If someone made a y block conversion that might interest me. One heavy solid piece that bolts to the pan rails and completely encapsulates the crank and mains. Then cross bolted through the main caps like an LS engine. That huge spacer would become the crankcase and except a flat oil pan with a sump.
Click to expand...

I was having the same thought when I started reading this thread.
Matts440 said:
Yeah I thought the same idea would be better to connect to the block. Too bad no one can make a full bolt on that replaces the caps and bolts to the oil pan bolts then the pan to the extension. Kinda like the neon srt4 block, the main cap were part of the support and bolted to the block.
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Not that nobody can, but I just think that they haven't. A one piece unit could be made but would be significantly harder and more expensive to produce than one that adapts to modified main caps. You would definitely need to line bore it in the block to be used with and that negates any bolt-in status.
 
Andy F likes the cross bolted main caps. Better than a girdle.
Requires some drilling on the side of the block. What horsepower level are you shooting for?
 
Garys72Duster said:
Andy F likes the cross bolted main caps. Better than a girdle.
Requires some drilling on the side of the block. What horsepower level are you shooting for?
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He's probably using the ones from Program. They're the best solution I've seen for big blocks. I was thinking the y block idea for LA/Magnum blocks. There's never going to be a bolt on solution that doesn't require at least line honing.
 
maca said:
I've tried to read at what power range they are needed but it doesn't say anywhere. So I guess it's whenever I feel it's necessary. As I said I've never needed one in the past ever. But at this power level it would be cheap insurance while the engines.
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I think they are needed as you get past 6 to 700 horsepower. Or something to strengthen the bottom end. What motor? I'm talking mainly big blocks here
 
The flat girdles I've seen do little for rotational twisting; they simply do not have adequate strength in that direction. They only tie the caps together front-to-back and so reduce 'tilting' of the caps.
 
Doesn't the Mopar small block windage tray kind of act like a girdle on the Mains that It Bolts up to?
 
Jadaharabi said:
Doesn't the Mopar small block windage tray kind of act like a girdle on the Mains that It Bolts up to?
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No. To flimsy to do anything except what it was made for. The main caps, 3 & 5, have main caps bolts provisions to accept the tiny attaching screws for the windage tray.
 
LOL, And there ya go! Bingo! You are correct.

Good morning.... it’s all realities va the normal work shift.
Now where’s my coffee again....
 
pittsburghracer said:
If it makes you sleep better at night buy one and use it. I sleep fine so I never wasted my money on one.
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X2. If you REALLY need a girdle, you really need a better block. It protects the block - not the crank. The block is the weak point. But well executed, the block will last just fine at the power levels most guys can build to.
 
I dont use them, but the idea is to combat shock load and torsion which makes for cap walk and other detriments.
 
I now have a mega block and a Keith Black block but my last stock block 440 ran (275) 8 second passes in my 1991 Daytona but it only weighed 2450 pounds. When I took it apart I found a crank going up thru the block. I had 1000.00 in that block for all the machine work and balance job. Heck the block wasn’t even sonic checked. Nothing fancy and it went a quickest pass in the low 8.60’s.
 
I ran one last year for the first time. 576 HP, and I ran it HARD. At disassembly couple weeks ago there was absolutely no sign of main cap walking. None.

At the very least it will eliminate walk and sort of act like a crank scraper. Anything we can do to sturdy up these flimsy little 2 bolt caps we're stuck with, is a plus in my eyes.

I think it's almost turning those caps into 1 big, unmoveable maincap.
Very time consuming install. It has to be shimmed dead flat on every cap. Get it wrong and you absolutely wasted your money. Get it right and just maybe it helps a bit.

You'll never find a used one. Funny, huh?
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