I do remember reading about those.
Don't those have to be modified by shortening one side ?
You can if you want, some people dont bother, and it fits fine with modern offset rims like mustang GT rims.
Plus you get 1/2" RH lug studs, 5 bolt 4.5" circle lug pattern, and rear discs. Use a Dana Spicer 457 U joint that's specced for a 91-92 Dakota rear driveshaft, and the ford yoke will couple to the mopar driveshaft. Everything on it is SAE thread except for the bolts holding the rear calipers on. The vent tube hole is the same thread as a mopar vent tube, and close to the same location, so you can use your brake line tee, and vent tube bolt.
I detailed how I shortened the one for my sons 69 notch in the driveline section. It's pretty straightforward though you need a good welder. Easiest way to know how much to remove is measure both tubes from flange to flange subtract the 2 numbers and that's what you remove, also you can stand up both axles on your workbenches and measure the height difference between the 2 at the spline end. Once shortened, its approx 1/16" wider than a stock A body width rear. That's not much of a difference.
The rear disc brake parts are dirt cheap. Got my bendix rotors from rock auto for $15 each. A new bearing and seal kit from ebay with timkin bearings on sale was $60. New Yukon gear clutches, cross pin bolt, S spring and friction modifier $80. Plus other goodies to rebuild it. Once ready to install fully rebuilt with all new brakes, and custom made E brake cables plus purchase price I will have $450 in it.
The bonus is if you get an xploder rear that's already had a full on brake job to save you some coin.
NOTE: the rear brake calipers changed to a different design sometime in 1999, so if your rear is out of a 99 explorer, write down the build date off the door jamb sticker so you can figure out which type yours it.
What I get with the shortened 8.8 rear is mopar A body ready, BBP, rear discs, 31 spline axles, 3.73 gears, and limited slip for $450.
I built an 8.75 for my 67 notch. Had to piece it all together. Sure its fully rebuilt. Has 3.73s, a new Sure Grip in a 742 case, BBP, new bearings, fully rebuilt finned 10x2.5" drums.
However I have $1600 in it !!!
That's a difference of $1,150 and you get disc brakes with it. Had I known about the xploder 8.8 dealio years ago, I woulda went that route on my 67 too. But I am into my 8.75, in dollars, and the time hunting for parts, and I'm gonna keep it now.
The stock clutch and S spring setup is ok, and you can shim it to make it tighter, Stang bangers do just fine with 28 spline axles, and stock limited slip setups, and their cars weigh in close to an A body. However you can get a better limited slip center if your power levels go higher than what it's designed for.
As far as a pinion snubber goes, you got 2 choices and that's lookin like either Caltracs, or old timey yellow Lakewood slapper bars. Gonna make our own slapper bars and paint em black.
