Aren't A-Body 8 3/4" axles supposed to be in demand?

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Kern Dog

Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
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I looked in the classifieds here and see three for sale with Sure Grip chunks in them (Mine included in that three) and they don't seem to be getting much attention.
I know they are not cheap but I thought that Summer would be a great time to sell stuff since almost all the shows and swaps are in the Spring, Summer and early Fall.
What the heck ??
 
I have been buying Ford 8.8 rears and you really have to jump on them because they disappear fast.

I think many have the same idea. I can't even remember the last time I looked at an 8.75.

Why, when I can get 3.73 limited slip for 150. Bucks and burn two black marks to the end of the block.
 
Yep, there are cheaper ways to do it, even if you go with a 68-70 B-body unit.

If the Sure-Grip is a cone type, those are in much less demand than the clutch type too.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I have been buying Ford 8.8 rears and you really have to jump on them because they disappear fast.

I think many have the same idea. I can't even remember the last time I looked at an 8.75.

Why, when I can get 3.73 limited slip for 150. Bucks and burn two black marks to the end of the block.
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I do remember reading about those.
Don't those have to be modified by shortening one side ?
 
Depends on where you live in the US!! Where I live in S. Texas there are almost no Mopars and No A body 8 3/4 rear ends..........none, zip ...........zero, nada!!! If you happen to find one it's like a million dollars and 500 miles away.
However there are Chevy 12 bolt rear ends falling from the sky for cheap!!! Treblig
 
Kern Dog said:
I do remember reading about those.
Don't those have to be modified by shortening one side ?
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I do think the availability of the Ford 8.8 and the ease of shortening the one side is probably affecting the 8 3/4 market. Anyone with average fab skills and a welder can do it. And for the budget-minded hot rodder that's not an absolute purest, when you can get into and 8.8 with limited slip and disc brakes for less than five hundred bucks, why not? For a cash-strapped teenager like my son it was a no-brainer. For me, I would probably go 8 3/4. Whole bunch of info right here on this site about it.
 
I am narrowing a Ford 9" to eventually go under my Valiant. I got the rear end for free. I can do all the narrowing work myself, minus resplining and changing the bolt pattern on the axles. If I end up with 300 bucks in it, it will be a miracle.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I am narrowing a Ford 9" to eventually go under my Valiant. I got the rear end for free. I can do all the narrowing work myself, minus resplining and changing the bolt pattern on the axles. If I end up with 300 bucks in it, it will be a miracle.
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That's only cuz ur so scilled!!!:lol:
 
Kern Dog said:
I do remember reading about those.
Don't those have to be modified by shortening one side ?
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Rainy Day Auto said:
If you get them out of exploders yes, if you get them out of rangers, no
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Even the explorer 8.8 is only 59.625” wide, which is narrower than a 68-70 B-body rear (60.125”) and only just wider than a 65-67 B-body 8 3/4 (59.5”).

Shortening them is easy anyway, they have an offset center so all you do shorten the long side to match the short side and install two of the short side axles. I forget what that width works out to be, it’s a little narrower than an A-body 8 3/4 if I remember right.

If I didn’t have a pile of 8 3/4 housings I’d look into the 8.8, but I pulled a few C-body 8 3/4’s at the local yards for cheap so I’d shorten one of those first. I’ve got 8 3/4’s in everything, so I’m setting them all up the same so I have a few extra 3rd members to change gearing.
 
72bluNblu said:
Even the explorer 8.8 is only 59.625” wide, which is narrower than a 68-70 B-body rear (60.125”) and only just wider than a 65-67 B-body 8 3/4 (59.5”).

Shortening them is easy anyway, they have an offset center so all you do shorten the long side to match the short side and install two of the short side axles. I forget what that width works out to be, it’s a little narrower than an A-body 8 3/4 if I remember right.

If I didn’t have a pile of 8 3/4 housings I’d look into the 8.8, but I pulled a few C-body 8 3/4’s at the local yards for cheap so I’d shorten one of those first. I’ve got 8 3/4’s in everything, so I’m setting them all up the same so I have a few extra 3rd members to change gearing.
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BluNblu, what do you think a B body 8 3/4 742 open rear end, complete from backing plate to backing plate is worth? I'm not going to use in the charger.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
If the Sure-Grip is a cone type, those are in much less demand than the clutch type too.
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Why is that? How often would you really have to 'rebuild' a clutch SG? IIRC the cones were more 'streetable' on the street..?
 
retroron said:
BluNblu, what do you think a B body 8 3/4 742 open rear end, complete from backing plate to backing plate is worth? I'm not going to use in the charger.
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Funny enough, I just paid $400 for a complete 68-70 B body 8 3/4 backing plate to backing plate. Open 742 3rd member with 3.23’s, axles, 11x2.5” backing plates. It also came with a brand new set of billet housing ends from DoctorDiff, a brand new set of green bearings and a new set of perches. Previous owner was going to shorten it, and just the box of parts from DoctorDiff would be $155 new from him.

So, for just the complete B body rear and open 742 center I’d say $300 to $400 depending on condition and what gears are in it. I didn’t “need” the one I bought, I thought it was a good deal considering the gear ratio and all the extra new parts. And I’ve got a couple of 742 chunks so it’s nice to have a few chunks that match and can interchange parts. I’ve paid as much as $200 for a clean B-body 8 3/4 housing, and 742 open chunks are usually around $200. More if they have a more desirable gear ratio.

pishta said:
Why is that? How often would you really have to 'rebuild' a clutch SG? IIRC the cones were more 'streetable' on the street..?
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I think it’s more about buying a used cone style sure grip and not knowing how good it is. If you buy a clutch type, even if the clutches are hammered they can be replaced. If the cones are worn it’s a lot more work.
 
Here are some more pictures of my '74Dart. 360, Kessler built 4L60E, Strange built 8.8 Explorer with Dana 60.

IMG_0378.JPG


Dart front.jpg


Dart.jpg


IMG_0374.JPG
 
I have a 65 Valiant convertible that has the ubiquitous 7.25 axle. I'd love to put an 8 1/4" axle in it but I can't seem to find one around here.
 
Kern Dog said:
I have a 65 Valiant convertible that has the ubiquitous 7.25 axle. I'd love to put an 8 1/4" axle in it but I can't seem to find one around here.
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QuickDart360 said:
What about rhw other alternative 8.25 mopar rear? Still a viable option?:eek:
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Same boat. Fine rear end. Would love to have put one in my boy's car. Hard to find in these parts. 8.8's are growing on trees. For now.
 
I guess I'm lucky my came with an 8.25 factory. But not so lucky with 2.45 gears!! Yuck. So went to 3.91's and an auburn sure grip to get grip from both wheels.
 
My strange 9" was free from a friend.
1,000 HP custom axles 600.00 with everything! (Bearings, seals, ect.)
Disk breaks, = less than rebuilding the drums.
Center spool and nodular case, 600.

Never ever worry about it, priceless.
 
Soooo.....
What models of Explorers are the ones to look for???
 
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