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Awesome, thank you for the piece of mind.
My Indy heads have 2.10” valves. When I speced the pistons I had the reliefs cut for a 2.15” valve. I’ll be talking to Dwayne Porter for a light weight 2.15” valve when I freshen the engine.
It's only money.
I checked out ACE website.....bada$$$
All it takes is the right valve spring. You could put in a valve with a 1/2” stem and with enough spring not experience valve float.
This is just my opinion, so take it for what it costs. In a performance build anytime you can save weight on moving parts it’s a plus. With valves it equals less spring, which means less stress on rocker arms, lighter push rods. All of which equates to less load on the cam. Light parts rev easier than heavy parts. I like light weight pistons, rods, thin ring packs, anything that moves in the car. It all adds up. It would be interesting to see dyno results on a stock type rebuild on a 340 compared to one with light weight parts.
Unless You're runnin' a flathead, gravity is working against Your valves........control-wise....
That's not a lazy cam, but not killer, the best way if You want to cut grams would be beehives with the small retainers. If You use the springs Howards recommends, float shouldn't be a concern, 7K+...
And BEEFY pushrods, lol! My "Killer 6" got wound to 7k a few times with "249" 340HP singles/dampers, no drama or damage or sound of "float", but when I retired it the evidence was there upon teardown.....
But we're not. lol
Cool, thank you I do have the howard's springs. I suppose sometimes I overthink things and ask questions like this thread just because I don't know and end up finding some more guys to help me & all of us out
At what point? At 8500 rpm, IF the springs can't control stainless. Simpler, just reduce valve stem diameter. ( big block mopars don't have anywhere near the valve control problems of bb chevys!)
Okay that's good to know
Google EFI university and look for some of his videos on spintron development. Valve weight is a big deal, even at 6000 rpm. If you can spend a few hundred bucks and save valve weight it’s cheap money spent. Also, if you have your poop in one group you can use Ti retainers and save there too. You can’t make the valve side too light. Weight is a killer.
Yeah, you can be too light. When shit starts breakin from havin holes in it.
Initially the cam moves the valve, but after it starts moving you need spring to control the inertia and control bounce. Lighter valves Have less inertia, kinda like lighter weight pistons are easier on your rods and bolts.
I get it.....I guess what I should have said was, IMO it's splittin the HELL out of hairs to take a chance on using hollow valves. Valves crack and break sometimes as it is. Yall use that shit. I'm stickin with with solid ones.
I won't even use those small diameter solid valves. Good old 3/8 mopar performance valves in my small block.
Exactly. It's just not worth the risk. And IMO, "whatever" they might gain can be found elsewhere.
Yeah, what RRR said in post 21. A sodium valve is a hollow valve, & the strength is compromised 'cause it's got a hole in it. These valves were originally designed for extreme/high temp operating conditions. Like an aircraft engine running hour after hour.... Never designed for the huge spring forces of today's high rpm, roller cammed engines. So good luck with a weakened valve....
It seems that their has ben little or no discussion on light weight materials used on sft's and push rods and materials. what about rocker geometery and weight? I only rpm to 58 to 62 hundred and I use Trend H-12 solids and trend Ball Ball thin wall p-rods that are not reccomended for my package. I have machined the piss out of my Hughs rockers to lighten them and oil through the rockers to the p-rod ball just to not have the weight of oil filled p-rods. I also have and LIKE the B-3 Rocker correction assy. that takes alot of the stress outof the complete assy, meaning less spring pressure/weight. I use suprisingly light Manley springs, Ti retainers, H13 locs and now I am going to go to Ti intakes that will almost equalize the the int/exh valve weight, very close. 12lb. mccloud flywheel, 512-B kit w/light weight crank, 6.8lb sfi damper. BHJ. This thing spools up faster than i can shift in 1 and 2 gear. And yet I still look for ways to shed weight.looks like I have to face plate the old 18-spline now.I would like to have big heads but I'd better stay with what I have.
[QUOTE="cryplydog, post: looks like I have to face plate the old 18-spline now.I would like to have big heads but I'd better stay with what I have.[/QUOTE] What does it mean to "face plate" the 18 Spline? Is it the same as using a scatter shield and block plate?
So You wouldn't run a Hemi under any circumstances, I mean, a long valve with a 2.25" head diameter & a 5/16" stem is total catastrophe...