autocrossed the duster this weekend!

-
wracks71 said:
thanks! car had a holley on it when i bought it,thought it was the carb,ended up getting the edy and hated it ever since. a buddy and i spent 2 or 3 hours messing with it and just can't get it right. dead spots bad,it just doesn't deliver enough fuel for the motor. it is a 650 like my holley. i had a 600 edy on my old mustang in high school and it done good,but this one blows! it's going to a friend of mine for his torino.
i bought the hellwigs about a year ago. didn't like the way they bolted up at all. looked hokey to me. i took them back to summit and thank god found firm feel. thats all they do is mopar stuff. dick is the man with the mopar suspension stuff i think.
Click to expand...

Eddies are notorious for having floats out of whack. Reset the floats, spring loaded needle and seats and it would probably run great, but I too am a holley man. Sounds like you got the old stock of Hellwig bars, the old design was HOKEY. Ther new font mounts similar to FF and the new rear is adjustable like autoxcuda states.
 
Wracks

What SCCA group are you in? I see you live in Madsonville (Madtown) Tn.
I live 20 miles from you. Outside Etowah here.

SCCA is a great format for people wanting to get their cars out and having fun. Autocross can be quite a challenge when the course is set up for cars smaller than your Duster. The old Oak Ridge meets come to mind. What class did your car go in?

Enjoy

Whip
 
autoxcuda said:
What size front T-bars are you running?

The SS rear spring are sort stiff. Adding a rear sway bar might make the car real oversteering (loose/rear hanging out). This is were the helwig adjustable rear sway bars would help dial in the car.


If you were going to bother with race autocross compound tires I would pony up to something 255 or 275 wide in front and rear. You want both the same and same rims so you can rotate the tires. Will need a wheel spacer for that.

IMHO, I would fit 275/40/17 tires on 17x9 rims. Thats a fairly common size or tire and rim. Might need to trim the front bottom fender lip.
Click to expand...

the torsions are around 1". i already have firm feel 3/4 bar,so it is going in. i like the way it bolts up like the old t/a challenger & AAR cuda.
i wanted to go with a wider tire and not really run two different sizes. i am big bolt pattern. you seem up on this a little more than me,so are there any mustang wheels or something that will bolt up without adapters and crap. i have a buddy with a jeep rubicon,they have same bolt pattern,16x8,if the offset is right i will get a set of those. he has one i can try on the front for clearance.
 
Evildrken said:
That's sooo Bad ***..how often do you get out there? I hope you can some post some pics of the car and suspension, and keep us updated on how its driving.. love to see these cars out tearing it up!!
Click to expand...

thanks! this was a first for the duster! i used to have a celica i raced a few times,way cooler with this car!
 
BigWhip said:
Wracks

What SCCA group are you in? I see you live in Madsonville (Madtown) Tn.
I live 20 miles from you. Outside Etowah here.

SCCA is a great format for people wanting to get their cars out and having fun. Autocross can be quite a challenge when the course is set up for cars smaller than your Duster. The old Oak Ridge meets come to mind. What class did your car go in?

Enjoy

Whip
Click to expand...

east tennessee region. i enjoy the competition,but i like the fun of it too! there were two impala ss cars running that day! alot of 4 door stuff too.
i know some people at work from etowah. shoot me a pm and we'll meet up.
 
here are some pics of the car. i need to get it stripped as it is going to stay primer and blue for a while. i've had alot of good comments about it,it's different!
3339309285_d78954f278_m.jpg

autox.jpg

3339309285_d78954f278_m.jpg


autox.jpg
 
wracks71 said:
the torsions are around 1". i already have firm feel 3/4 bar,so it is going in. i like the way it bolts up like the old t/a challenger & AAR cuda.
i wanted to go with a wider tire and not really run two different sizes. i am big bolt pattern. you seem up on this a little more than me,so are there any mustang wheels or something that will bolt up without adapters and crap. i have a buddy with a jeep rubicon,they have same bolt pattern,16x8,if the offset is right i will get a set of those. he has one i can try on the front for clearance.
Click to expand...

BTW I thought the tubular UCA will take you out of ESP class. At least that was the old rules. If so, wouldn't bother and spend your money on rims and the most contact patch/grip you can get.

Oh I agree, only the same size front and rear. And that size would be 275/40/17's with like 5.72 backspacing. That's what the red 68 Valiant pictured below is running. There are some 17" mustang torque thrust aftermarket rims for under $150/ea I think. But the rear you need a spacer. OR you run a B-body rear end.

Is your car still raised some in the rear?? That doesn't help handling. How low is the bottom of your K-memember to the ground right now??

5060560-chasing.jpg
 
What you guys are talking about is exactly what I want my Duster to become one day. A lot of guys on here build street/strip drag cars but I would definitely prefer a low-slung wide-tired Autocrosser.
 
autoxcuda said:
BTW I thought the tubular UCA will take you out of ESP class. At least that was the old rules. If so, wouldn't bother and spend your money on rims and the most contact patch/grip you can get.

Oh I agree, only the same size front and rear. And that size would be 275/40/17's with like 5.72 backspacing. That's what the red 68 Valiant pictured below is running. There are some 17" mustang torque thrust aftermarket rims for under $150/ea I think. But the rear you need a spacer. OR you run a B-body rear end.

Is your car still raised some in the rear?? That doesn't help handling. How low is the bottom of your K-memember to the ground right now??

5060560-chasing.jpg
Click to expand...

i am not really worried about staying in the esp class,but i will look into that. thanks for the heads up! hell,that day a dude in an '03 cobra stang with race tires that used to run a pro class went down to esp! i didn't think that was quite fair!
thanks for the wheel info. i'll look into that. is that your valiant?
i am not sure how far the k-frame is off the ground,but it is low. the car has about 1" rake,but the way the rear swaybar bolts on,it will come down a little more.
 
wracks71 said:
i am not really worried about staying in the esp class,but i will look into that. thanks for the heads up! hell,that day a dude in an '03 cobra stang with race tires that used to run a pro class went down to esp! i didn't think that was quite fair!
thanks for the wheel info. i'll look into that. is that your valiant?
i am not sure how far the k-frame is off the ground,but it is low. the car has about 1" rake,but the way the rear swaybar bolts on,it will come down a little more.
Click to expand...

No that 68 Valiant is Tim Werner of Oregon. I have the 68 Barracuda S coupe in my sig pic.

That 1" rake is not good for handling. Get a measurement from the ground to the k-member so you have some quantity to work with and explain to others.

The stock Cobra is in ESP. And if you put tubular UCA you'll be in C-Prepared (semi tube frame trailer race cars) or Street Touring?(STU). Go look up the rules for ESP and Street Touring.

W_2081.jpg


IMG_2791.jpg
 
does tim reside on here or how can i get ahold of him? i would like to pick his brain a little! thanks
 
wracks71 said:
does tim reside on here or how can i get ahold of him? i would like to pick his brain a little! thanks
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure he is not. AndyF might remember some of his setup.

IIRC, Tim Werner's 68 Valiant

1.22 T-bars
73-76 welded K-frame
custom selected bilstein shocks
frame connectors
roll cage
www.AREngineering.com 13" Brembo caliper and rotor conversion
275/40/17 tires on 17x9 rims front and rear
accusump

Can't remember for sure of his rear springs, but think they may be stock 340 size.

These might be Spitfire headers, can't tell.

Some pics of Spring Fling Speed Festival 2007: http://www.mrmopar.com/SpringFling2007/WillowSprings/ more in the gallery at www.alltimeracing.com

2007-05-03_015.jpg


2007-05-03_035.jpg
 
Hey autox-

Do you have more info on the welded k frame? I will be setting my Daily Driver Dart up for more of a autox car,and was looking for tips to strengthen the K frame before I do the motor swap.

Any ideas on what he did to fit that big of a wheel/tire combo on that Valiant? I would LOVE to run 275's in all 4....looks MEAN:snakeman:
 
i'm inspired. i have almost all the parts needed now, viper calipers and adapters, big drum spindles, cordoba rotors, braided lines, small master cyl., prop. valve, LCA brace..
still in transit: 1.06 bars, firm feel's poly rebuild kit with bigger tie rods and greasable LCA bushings.
..i still need to decide on shocks and brand of swaybar. i have 3" exhaust so rear bar is gonna be dicey. dick says the new bilsteins theyv'e got have been getting good feedback so i'm considering those as i don't think i'll be farting around with adjusting my shocks...keeping it simple. i already have tubular UCA's and have 255's (rear) on cobra 17's, .75" spacer in rear and removed and and capped zerk fittings on UCAs, plenty clearance.

015_1_1.JPG
 
Grinder said:
Hey autox-

Do you have more info on the welded k frame? I will be setting my Daily Driver Dart up for more of a autox car,and was looking for tips to strengthen the K frame before I do the motor swap.

Any ideas on what he did to fit that big of a wheel/tire combo on that Valiant? I would LOVE to run 275's in all 4....looks MEAN:snakeman:
Click to expand...

I think AndyF setup his brembo/viper brake conversion to account for some of the backspace of the mustang spec rims.

The Dart have about the same room in front as the Barracudas and should be the same as a Valiant.

Now in the rear the Dart lacks room that the Barracudas do. I think the Valiant also has that slab sided skirt design. I don't know/remember what the red 68 valiant has done for rear tire fitting. I bet it's at least got the quarter lips rolled. Maybe clearanced out a little (big hammer).

In the front with late model large bolt pattern you can fit the 275/40/17 on 17x9 rims with 5.7 backspacing. Might need some small spacers if you have slight tie rod inerference. You will have to roll/cut a 1"-3/4" x 3" triangle out of the lower front fender lip. Also with the dart you can move the lower fender brace forward and that will move the fender out for more clearance (I've done that on my 68 Dart). You can even redrill a new fender brace hole forward of the factory one for clearance.

Read here for 17 5.72" backspace rim fitting.

http://www.moparfins.com/CLAIRDAVIS/1969_front_end.htm
http://www.moparfins.com/CLAIRDAVIS/Cobra_Wheel.htm
 
I think AndyF setup his brembo/viper brake conversion to account for some of the backspace of the mustang spec rims.

..i hope so, lol

yeah, i got quite a bit of info from clairedavis's work already, thanks

my clearance probs were on the back. the 5.72 backspace puts the tire in contact with leaf spring so i found a set of billet spacers that went right over the long wheel studs. that centerd the wheel in the housing and i still have some room toward the lip (already rolled). with offset shackles i can toss the spacers and run a bigger wheel/tire. i think mine are only 17x8 not sure.
 
pauly v.100 said:
i'm inspired. i have almost all the parts needed now, viper calipers and adapters, big drum spindles, cordoba rotors, braided lines, small master cyl., prop. valve, LCA brace..
still in transit: 1.06 bars, firm feel's poly rebuild kit with bigger tie rods and greasable LCA bushings.
..i still need to decide on shocks and brand of swaybar. i have 3" exhaust so rear bar is gonna be dicey. dick says the new bilsteins theyv'e got have been getting good feedback so i'm considering those as i don't think i'll be farting around with adjusting my shocks...keeping it simple. i already have tubular UCA's and have 255's (rear) on cobra 17's, .75" spacer in rear and removed and and capped zerk fittings on UCAs, plenty clearance.
Click to expand...

where did you get your braided brake lines? i run them on my cummins and my rockcrawler,i think they make a big difference. i have to check into front wilwoods though and see if the lines come with them.
 
autoxcuda said:
I think AndyF setup his brembo/viper brake conversion to account for some of the backspace of the mustang spec rims.

The Dart have about the same room in front as the Barracudas and should be the same as a Valiant.

Now in the rear the Dart lacks room that the Barracudas do. I think the Valiant also has that slab sided skirt design. I don't know/remember what the red 68 valiant has done for rear tire fitting. I bet it's at least got the quarter lips rolled. Maybe clearanced out a little (big hammer).

In the front with late model large bolt pattern you can fit the 275/40/17 on 17x9 rims with 5.7 backspacing. Might need some small spacers if you have slight tie rod inerference. You will have to roll/cut a 1"-3/4" x 3" triangle out of the lower front fender lip. Also with the dart you can move the lower fender brace forward and that will move the fender out for more clearance (I've done that on my 68 Dart). You can even redrill a new fender brace hole forward of the factory one for clearance.

Read here for 17 5.72" backspace rim fitting.

http://www.moparfins.com/CLAIRDAVIS/1969_front_end.htm
http://www.moparfins.com/CLAIRDAVIS/Cobra_Wheel.htm
Click to expand...

that is some interesting reading on fitting the 17's. now i am leaning towards some bullit wheels!! mustangs are a dime a dozen around this area of the country.
i will have to post some pics of how i had the body shop do my fenders. they cut about 3/4 of an inch off the front flowing it into the fender nice. the inner lip has been trimmed. also rounded the back just a little at the bottom.
 
pauly v.100 said:
I think AndyF setup his brembo/viper brake conversion to account for some of the backspace of the mustang spec rims.

..i hope so, lol

yeah, i got quite a bit of info from clairedavis's work already, thanks

my clearance probs were on the back. the 5.72 backspace puts the tire in contact with leaf spring so i found a set of billet spacers that went right over the long wheel studs. that centerd the wheel in the housing and i still have some room toward the lip (already rolled). with offset shackles i can toss the spacers and run a bigger wheel/tire. i think mine are only 17x8 not sure.
Click to expand...

this is where if you don't allready have an A-body 8 3/4 rear you can make out. You can run the wider B-body rear end and move the spring perches over.

4.5 backspacing is about max with a low profile (50 or less) on a correct sized rim. So as there isn't a lot of bulge past the rim. So IF you can get a rear end that is 1.25" wider on EACH side, the 5.72" backspacing sort of becomes 4.47" (5.72-1.25)

Now, what 8 3/4 rear is exactly or real close to 2.50" wider (2x1.25") than an A-body 8 3/4???
 
yeah i've got an ad locally looking for a b-body rear but i may be waiting for a long time. that rearend is what i would prefer though.
 
pauly v.100 said:
yeah i've got an ad locally looking for a b-body rear but i may be waiting for a long time. that rearend is what i would prefer though.
Click to expand...

i have a C body 8 3/4 housing i'd let go! noy sure what the difference in width is.
 
Per the axle lengths off Moparts here, a 65-67 B-Body axle is 1.1875" longer than an A-Body axle, a 70-71 Imperial axle is 1.3125 longer and a 68-70 B-Body axle is 1.5" longer. This would add up to a difference of 2.375" wider for the 65-67 B-Body, 2.625" for the Imperial and 3" for the 68-70 B-Body. Can't vouch for the accuracy, though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top