axle question

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trudysduster

trudysduster

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will probably start rebuilding this rearend this weekend now that I have all the pieces to do it with. while I have the axles out I want to go ahead and replace the bearings on it and only want to do this once. My Duster has the Moser axles in it and they have the Moser 9400RP axle bearings on it. That is the only axles I have ever pulled on a Mopar in the past 40 years. On Tylers Dart Sport that we are going to put this rearend in, I believe the rearend came out of a 67 Coronet and it is factory. The question is: can I just pull the bearings off and go back with the 9400RP bearings on those axles. I read somewhere the factory bearings were a pain to deal with. Bearings and seals and all that. I just want it simple. I also read where you can use green bearings but I think the Moser would be better as I have worked with them on my Duster. I have not had these axles out yet. or would it be just as good to go back with what is in it.
 
Go back with what's in it. They have much more surface area than the green bearing.
 
never dealt with the green bearings. what about the Moser. They have worked well in the Duster. Are they any better than whats in there now.
 
The big problem with the stock axle bearings was getting the preload right. This was adjusted by pulling the passenger side axle and using a special tool to reach in and turn the thrust button in the differential to make it longer or shorter, then reinstall the axle, remeasure end play, and repeat as needed. About as much fun as screwing a porcupine. Since you are replacing the stock open diff with a Sure Grip you will need to go through this process at least once if you use the stock bearings (if you're lucky). Use the Moser bearings you are comfortable with...
 
grumpuscreature said:
The big problem with the stock axle bearings was getting the preload right. This was adjusted by pulling the passenger side axle and using a special tool to reach in and turn the thrust button in the differential to make it longer or shorter, then reinstall the axle, remeasure end play, and repeat as needed. About as much fun as screwing a porcupine. Since you are replacing the stock open diff with a Sure Grip you will need to go through this process at least once if you use the stock bearings (if you're lucky). Use the Moser bearings you are comfortable with...
Click to expand...
Adjustable thrust button? new one on me, pray tell:happy1:
 
I am going with the True Trac differential. If I replace the stock bearings with the Moser 9400RP bearings, I don't have do anything. Is that what you are saying. if so, it seems like a no brainer to me to go with the Moser. I have never dealt with anything than those.
 
The adjuster is on the passenger side bearing retainer behind the axle flange under the brake drum. There is a lock strap held on by one of the retainer nuts.
 
grumpuscreature said:
The big problem with the stock axle bearings was getting the preload right. This was adjusted by pulling the passenger side axle and using a special tool to reach in and turn the thrust button in the differential to make it longer or shorter, then reinstall the axle, remeasure end play, and repeat as needed. About as much fun as screwing a porcupine. Since you are replacing the stock open diff with a Sure Grip you will need to go through this process at least once if you use the stock bearings (if you're lucky). Use the Moser bearings you are comfortable with...
Click to expand...

I think that you have some wrong information here.....axle endplay (not preload!) on an 8 3/4 with stock tapered wheel bearings is actually quite simple to set up - no hassle at all. It can be done as per the service manual by measuring the endplay of the axle, and adjusting the adjuster located on the pass side axle in the brake assembly, or if you don't have a dial indicator to measure the play you can tighten the adjuster (by hand) until there is no endplay and then back the adjuster off a specific number of notches. The number escapes me now, but I am sure someone here will chime in.

You will find many debates on whether the tapered roller factory bearings can safely be replaced with a sealed ball bearing (green or other manufacturer) for street use, but the simple fact is that the tapered roller bearing does have more capacity to handle side loads (cornering), and is proven with billions of miles in cars since the 60's with little to no failures.

The sealed ball bearings were introduced in the aftermarket and were designed for drag cars where center sections ere routinely changed to change the gear ratio.
 
In the literally hundreds of 8 3/4s I have built and worked on, I have yet to see an adjustable thrust button. The axle bearing adjustment is on the passenger side.
 
but if you go with the sealed bearings ( Moser ) you don't have to do anything just bolt them in and go........ right. They have worked for me for 13 years now. I am just wanting to know if these axles IF they are factory tapered bearings can be replaced with say Moser bearings and can be installed, bolted in and ran.
 
Yes, they can be replaced. You will need to ensure that there is no thrust plug in the center of your third member, as it is only required for the factory style bearings, and may prevent the axles from seating all the way with the sealed ball bearings.

The old bearings and retaining collar can be carefully cut off the axles, the new bearings and retainers need to be pressed on with a press and some heating of the retainer / cooling of the axle. They are quite tight and some care needs to be taken to make sure the axle is not damaged and that they are properly seated.
 
trudysduster said:
but if you go with the sealed bearings ( Moser ) you don't have to do anything just bolt them in and go........ right. They have worked for me for 13 years now. I am just wanting to know if these axles IF they are factory tapered bearings can be replaced with say Moser bearings and can be installed, bolted in and ran.
Click to expand...
You may or may not have to remove the thrust button.
 
trudysduster said:
I am going with the True Trac differential. If I replace the stock bearings with the Moser 9400RP bearings, I don't have do anything. Is that what you are saying. if so, it seems like a no brainer to me to go with the Moser. I have never dealt with anything than those.
Click to expand...

Excellent choice I ran a tru-trac in my duster for awhile..you can buy the axles from Moser with the bearings already installed that's what I have in the duster:D:D
 
If I read this right - you should get the Green bearings Cass has in stock. Press them on and be done. Aftermarket axles can be made to use, or to not use the stock thrust buttons. They're different lengths. But you want to use the factory axles - right?
 
yes I want to use the axles that are in there now. They are working now and I don't see any problem with them working with the new differential. I am going with Moser bearings and have them pressed on at the driveline shop.
 
trudysduster said:
yes I want to use the axles that are in there now. They are working now and I don't see any problem with them working with the new differential. I am going with Moser bearings and have them pressed on at the driveline shop.
Click to expand...
I would just clean and regrease those orig factory bearings and reinstall.......free and easy, drive another 30 years.....
 
here's why. I made mention in the post " I want it simple". I mentioned that this is another part of the Mopar world I have never been in. I have read where dealing with the tapered factory bearings are a pain. as mentioned in several of the posts above things like:

getting preload right.
special tool.
thrust button in differential.
remeasure end play.
adjustable thrust button. new one on me.
may or may not have to remove thrust button.
now to someone who has never dealt with anything other than a Moser set up that has the sealed bearings that you just pull out and when the center section is replaced just slide the axles back in and bolt them up. don't you think that may be a little complicated. I have no idea what a thrust button is and from what I just read maybe some of you guys don't either. so I just thought that to make sure I may have eliminated a possible problem in the future, I would just spend the $100 and have a set of bearings pressed in. just keep it simple.
 
you are way over complicating this.stock bearing are way stronger.if you are uncomfortable doing the adjustment,let some mechanic do it and pay them the $60.00
 
trudysduster said:
nevermind this. I will deal with it. thanks for the input.
Click to expand...
Hey, were just trying to help.....it seems like your getting a lot of bogus information making you think its more complex than it really is.............
 
I understand. I appreciate the help. I just needed to know if it could be done with no problem. I found out what I needed to know.
 
pulled the axles and rearend out today. was surprised to find that it has a 3.23 open in it. looks like I am going to have a 3.23 ring and pinion for sale now. Bearings are shot. has a lot of play in them. will go back with either Green or Moser sealed bearings. but I saw a plate in the housing that isn't in my Duster. what is it for, does it need to come out. picture isn't he greatest but you get the picture. it is thin metal plate just inside the housing end.
 

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Looks just like a crusty old oil seal. new one taps in with a drift or big socket. try not to slide axle in against it. NOT needed with sealed green bearing
mopp_0404_05_z%2Brear_axle_housing_swap%2Bremove_old_axle_seals.jpg
 
ok, I thought it should come out but wanted to check. I didn't see any reason for it to be in there as my Duster don't have it but it doesn't have a factory tapered bearings either. new to me. thanks
 
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