Ball joint replacement

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dartfreak75 said:
I actually had it out the back the whole control arm went with it tho so i pit the lca pin back on the kframe to get it out
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So, you're saying the torsion bar is stuck on the LCA, not stuck in the rear anchor?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Yes!!! Its free in the rear it won't come out of the lca
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In that case I would remove the LCA pivot pin, slide the bar out, and then drive the LCA off the end of the torsion bar. Again, you may need to soak that in penetrating oil, or use heat.

If you use heat, the torsion bar will have to be replaced. But I think you should probably be replacing those bars anyway.
 
Ok thanks I'm gonna try and save them at all cost they are not cheap to replace and they are not in the budget lol what's the best way to get the pivot pin out with the torsion bar still in? On the other side I had to press the pin out of the lca with a bolt from the inside of the lca. Could I heat the rubber on that side without heating the bar maybe?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Ok thanks I'm gonna try and save them at all cost they are not cheap to replace and they are not in the budget lol what's the best way to get the pivot pin out with the torsion bar still in? On the other side I had to press the pin out of the lca with a bolt from the inside of the lca. Could I heat the rubber on that side without heating the bar maybe?
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If the bar will slide out the back of the anchor, just take the nut off the pivot pin and slide the whole thing back until you can get at the LCA to knock it off the end. The pivot pin can stay in the LCA until you've knocked it off the torsion bar, then you can press it out.

And, I don't think there's anything to save with those torsion bars. As crusty, rusty, and frozen as those suspension parts have been for you, I wouldn't reuse those torsion bars, period.
 
Now I'm confused lol i thought you said to remove the pivot and drive the t bar off thru the pin hole? Is that right?
The torsion bars don't appear to be in bad shape to me there dirty but not rusted no pitting or anything I will take some better pics later I have been extra careful to not gouge or hit them.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Now I'm confused lol i thought you said to remove the pivot and drive the t bar off thru the pin hole? Is that right?
The torsion bars don't appear to be in bad shape to me there dirty but not rusted no pitting or anything I will take some better pics later I have been extra careful to not gouge or hit them.
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Not what I said. You can't drive the torsion bar through the LCA, that's not possible. The hole in the LCA is smaller than the torsion bar on the other side of the torsion bar lever.

If the bar will slide out the back of the rear anchor, you can remove the nut on the pivot, slide the bar back, and the LCA will drop down some so you can strike the back of the LCA and drive it off the end of the torsion bar. Driving the LCA off the torsion bar will be more effective than trying to "pull" the bar out of the LCA, which is basically what you're trying to do now.

Those bars are more than dirty. And regardless, they're a 43+ year old critical suspension part that supports your entire car, with an unknown history and who knows how many miles. And even if they were in great shape, these cars were undersprung from the factory, resulting in that extremely dated, "drives like a barge" '70's handling. What you do is up to you, but of all the things that can be replaced for $200 or so the torsion bars are one of the first things I would replace, and the last thing I would try and save money on.
 
What about strut rod bushings while you're there and did you order the offset UCA bushings?
 
72bluNblu said:
Not what I said. You can't drive the torsion bar through the LCA, that's not possible. The hole in the LCA is smaller than the torsion bar on the other side of the torsion bar lever.

If the bar will slide out the back of the rear anchor, you can remove the nut on the pivot, slide the bar back, and the LCA will drop down some so you can strike the back of the LCA and drive it off the end of the torsion bar. Driving the LCA off the torsion bar will be more effective than trying to "pull" the bar out of the LCA, which is basically what you're trying to do now.

Those bars are more than dirty. And regardless, they're a 43+ year old critical suspension part that supports your entire car, with an unknown history and who knows how many miles. And even if they were in great shape, these cars were undersprung from the factory, resulting in that extremely dated, "drives like a barge" '70's handling. What you do is up to you, but of all the things that can be replaced for $200 or so the torsion bars are one of the first things I would replace, and the last thing I would try and save money on.
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Ok gotcha. Yes I know the t bar won't go thru the lca lol I thought you ment to remove the pin from the lca and use the the hole the pin goes in to access the back of the tbar and drive it off. Like going thru the lca to drive it off I thought that's what you ment! Thank you for your help I will look for some tbars!!
 
dartfreak75 said:
Sorry I miss read that yes i have new uca bushings but they are not offset they are just regular bushings what is the offset for more adjustment range?
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Yes, so you can get some extra positive caster. Without the offset UCA bushings it's difficult to get decent alignment numbers for radial tires. Moog K7103 is what you need.

dartfreak75 said:
What torsion bar size would you recommend?
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PST sells a nice 1.03" set of torsion bars. They're a good rate for a more modern ride and handling capability, and they're priced better than pretty much any other new torsion bar out there. Plus you can get a 10% discount for being a member here.
 
Thank you very much!! Now I just hope I can get the dang thing out tomorrow!! Lol
 
Are those bushings needed for later models too? Mine is a 75 ! Iv already ordered my bushing I just got factory replacement bushing! If it's a huge deal i can order more.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Are those bushings needed for later models too? Mine is a 75 ! Iv already ordered my bushing I just got factory replacement bushing! If it's a huge deal i can order more.
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Yup, the stock bushings were the same for all of them, and you can’t get much caster at all without the offset bushings. If you plan to run radial tires and have a decent alignment, the offset bushings are pretty important.
 
Ok are the bolt kits the same or do I need them too? Also the lca bushings. I really wished I would have started this thread before ordering all my crap
 
I came up with an idea to get the tbar free from the lca. I'm gonna take the lca out of k frame again take a tow strap and a come along around the lca as close as possible to the tbar not torque or bind it and try to pull it off that way. It will either come off or pull the tbar thru the frame! Lol anyone tried anything similar to that?
 
I got it out!

20180711_080710.jpg
 
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